Tag Archive | pruning

The Resilience of Plants

Drimiopsis maculata.

It happens to everyone. We’re busy with the kids’ activities, our jobs, or the weather isn’t convenient. Sometimes we just can’t get to all those chores on the list. These cool drizzly days before the gardening season kicks into gear provide the opportunity to tend some of those plants I’ve neglected for months or, admittedly, for years. The fact that they survived attests to the resilience of plants.

It’s rare when any of them actually die; that’s not a good look for someone who’s in her 50th year of professional horticulture! But, after growing these plants for decades, I know how far they can go before reaching the point of no return. Not the best way to garden, but that’s reality for many of us.

This article describes a few examples of the adaptability of plants.

The Resilience of Plants: Confined Spaces

Drimiopsis Maculata

Drimiopsis maculata is one of the leopard lilies native to Africa. This species (photo, above) and 2 other leopard lilies that I grow (Ledebouria socialis and Drimiopsis kirkii) are perennials where winters don’t approach the freezing point. The specific epithet, maculata, refers to the deep green, sometimes purplish, spots on new spring growth. Foliage grows from bulbs on or just below the soil surface. These 3 species are classified in the Asparagaceae family.

They prefer average to cool temperatures indoors from fall to spring, and often shed some of the previous year’s foliage. Leopard lilies tolerate temperatures down into the 40’s F, so they’re spending the winter on the enclosed porch with only the sun, an additional plastic bubble, and miniature incandescent Christmas lights for warmth. Although it might drop below 20° outside the porch, nighttime temperatures won’t get below 45° under the bubble.

I simply don’t have enough direct sunlight inside (or a greenhouse) for hundreds of small plants. Anticipating that Arctic Blast (down to 0°) on December 24, 2022, I moved all the tender plants indoors the night before. Good thing, because the power went out for a few hours at the coldest time of day, around dawn. No power, no lights, no plants! It’s only when outdoor temperatures drop below the low teens that I move the tropicals indoors.

This clump and a few others stayed in 4½” pots for over a decade, since I last potted them up in Maryland. (I moved to North Carolina in 2013 and to this house in 2021.) They grew in only an inch of soil before I divided them in late summer, 2022. Because most of the organic matter had decomposed over that period of time, the level of the soil surface dropped a few inches lower in the pot.

In late winter or spring, the bulbs sprout shortly after repotting (photo, below). Normally, I repot plants in spring to mid-summer, but this species is amenable to transplanting at other times, given good growing conditions.

resilience of plants, drimiopsis after dividing

New growth and flowers on Drimiopsis.

Classification Confusion

The lily family and related families include many species that demonstrate the resilience of plants. These are some of the toughest plants for problem spots in the garden. I also brought from Maryland several hostas (Asparagaceae family) that had stayed in 4½” pots for over a decade. They leafed out nicely every spring, but never attained a good size until after I’d planted them at this rural North Carolina property in the autumn of 2021.

Cousins of drimiopsis that tolerate some neglect include ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.), liriope, grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), agave, and asparagus fern.

The huge lily family (Liliaceae) has undergone adjustments over recent decades. Genera of the original Liliaceae family have been redistributed among 10 families, all of which remain members of the same order, Liliales. The new taxonomy is based on modern studies of molecular biology (genetics) rather than on the number of tepals and the placement of the ovary in the flowers (physical characteristics). Liliaceae hasn’t been entirely disbanded, according to the APG, the Angiosperm Phylogeny Group; fifteen genera are still classified in the Liliaceae family.

Binomial Nomenclature

Swedish botanist, physician, and taxonomist Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778), later Carl von Linné, categorized thousands of plant species in his 2-volume 1753 work, Species Plantarum. Incorporating some of the discoveries of Georg Eberhard Rumphius (German-born botanist) from the 1600’s, Species Plantarum is considered the first attempt at organizing plant species according to a hierarchical system of binomial nomenclature.

Briefly, binomial nomenclature is a system of identifying organisms by assigning them 2 names: a genus and a specific epithet. Together, the 2 terms represent a species. For example, Liriope muscari ‘Royal Purple’ is the scientific or botanical name for a certain variety of the species. Lilyturf is the common name that also can refer to other species of liriope and Ophiopogon. The genus is always capitalized, while the specific epithet almost always begins with a lower-case letter. The species is italicized, but the variety (‘Royal Purple’) is not.

Everywhere around the world, gardeners and scientists use the same Latinized scientific name to identify a particular plant, whereas its common name might refer to several different unrelated species. The genus name is often used as a common name, as in liriope, hosta, and drimiopsis, as long as the reference is clear.

The taxonomical hierarchy after species proceeds to family, order, class, phylum, and kingdom. Genetic similarities and differences determine whether 2 plants are related closely enough to group them in the same genus or separately. The closer 2 species appear on the phylogenetic tree, the more likely they’re able to interbreed.

With modern genetic research, taxonomists have reworked several other plant families, including Lamiaceae (many of the herbs we use daily) and Asteraceae (the composites, perhaps the largest family of plants).

Swiss Chard

Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’.

Here’s a little cutie that sits on the kitchen windowsill, right behind the sink. This Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’ gets several hours of direct sunlight in the morning and early afternoon, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. Chilly nighttime temperatures don’t bother it. It found a temporary home in the nearest empty pot when I thinned it from a cluster of vegetable seedlings. And there it stayed.

What makes this plant special is the fact that I potted it up in March of 2022! And it has been in its 2¼” clay pot all this time! The other seedlings planted last spring grew to their normal 18″ height. This one stands a diminutive 3″ tall.

I’m not keeping it for the purpose of harvesting leaves; there’s not much to pick, after all. It looks perfectly healthy, as long as it gets watered every 1-3 days, depending on temperature. Every 3 weeks, I add a tablespoon of dilute fertilizer, such as Sea-Plus or fish emulsion—just enough to keep it in good color, but no more than that.

I’m curious to see how long this orange-stemmed miniaturized plant will last. Short-season (spinach, lettuce) or fast-growing (tomato) plants would not last long in such tiny quarters. Swiss chard is a foliage plant for close to a year before it flowers, so it has tolerated these conditions. Now and then, a leaf turns yellow and is pinched off, but new foliage continues to grow. (***Update***: still going strong in late June 2023.)

Agave

Another cousin of the lily family and a desert dweller, agave (in the Agavaceae family) is a very forgiving plant. I brought 2 varieties from Maryland. They slowly grew new leaves and strong stems with adventitious roots. Although confined in deteriorating 9-cell market packs for a long, long time (~15 years), they rooted into anything near them that stayed still for a year. In the photo, above, the last of the agaves rooted into a nearby clay pot and unoccupied cells of the (removed) market pack. The resilience of plants once again has been demonstrated by this plant’s will to survive.

I buried most of the long stem into a clay pot with barely damp potting soil and no additional water. I’ll water this one very sparingly until it shows signs of new growth.

Succulents and other plants native to dry, harsh climates are masters of survival. They store water in stems, roots, and swollen leaves protected by a thick, waxy epidermis. Species needing constant moisture would not have endured this neglect.

The Old Orchid

resilience of plants, mini orchid in 3" pot for 45 years

Dendrobium kingianum.

When I lived in Morgantown, West Virginia in the 1970’s, a friend and I drove out to The Glasshouse Works, over the border in Ohio. This nursery carried a dazzling assortment of plant species and varieties.

One of my purchases was a small orchid called Dendrobium kingianum. After returning home, I planted it in a 3″ clay pot. Every few years, I refresh the medium, using pine fines, long-fibered sphagnum moss, perlite, and a bit of potting soil.

It rarely blooms, and I propagate it when rooted plantlets form on the stems. An aerial plantlet is called a keiki, Hawaiian for “the little one”. It has been over 45 years now, and the orchid still resides in that 3″ pot.

Bonsai

Bonsai are the ultimate in meticulous care, incredible beauty, and sometimes astonishing age. Many large botanical gardens have collections that truly are worth visiting. Specimens can be several hundred years old and grow in pots only a couple of inches deep. Or they might be trained on a carefully chosen slab of rock.

Plants trained as bonsai usually are woody perennials, either deciduous or evergreen shrubs and trees. Successful bonsai require very specific care in trimming, root pruning, watering, and fertilizing according to seasonal cycles. Most important is the degree of artistry that contributes to a credible bonsai, one that expresses the appearance of an exquisitely aged specimen.

Bonsai exemplify the resilience of plants, considering the means by which they’re maintained over decades or centuries. Each specimen requires a tailored set of precise horticultural skills to keep it healthy.

(No, that’s not my plant in the photo, but this style of gardening deserves a mention.)

Headings

Page 1: The Resilience of Plants: Confined Spaces (Drimiopsis Maculata, Classification Confusion, Binomial Nomenclature, Swiss Chard, Agave, The Old Orchid, Bonsai)

Page 2: The Resilience of Plants: Opportunity (A Plant In a Strange Place, Young Lavender, Another Surprise Seedling), The Resilience of Plants: Recovery (Cryptanthus, Propagating Bromeliads, The Petunia, Giant Redwoods Define the Resilience of Plants, Wildfires)

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New Gardens For a New Property: What To Do First

Dec14

2021

A New Home and New Gardens!

View from the front porch.

As you might know from reading The Farm In My Yard, I moved from Rockville, Maryland to Charlotte, North Carolina in 2013. I worked for a few years, while watching over my elderly mother. After she passed away in 2020, the search was on for a larger property in a smaller town. Must-haves included reasonably quiet surroundings, lots of nature, room to play in new gardens, and no HOA. This article includes information from a landscaper’s perspective that might be new to first-time property owners.

Success! In late October, I moved to a new home in northern North Carolina. A few obstacles didn’t stop my tireless realtor, Erika, from finding this (almost) perfect little house. There was Covid, for one, and the reluctance on the part of homeowners to list their homes for sale. Very few livable offerings in my price range came to the market. As soon as they did, they immediately went under contract.

As many buyers have done in this tight market, I made an offer on the property sight unseen. Well, truthfully, I did drive by the house before submitting an offer, and liked what I saw. Trees, woods, space, and sunlight—perfect for a gardener! The previous owners made some major improvements, saving me the trouble and the expense. But I had no idea what the interior looked like.

Inspections

When buying a house, have all the inspections done before closing, as recommended by your realtor or for your own peace of mind. Estimate the cost of necessary upgrades and repairs.

Particularly for older homes, check the roof and electrical, plumbing, and HVAC systems. Look for water damage and mold, pests and wood rot, foundation issues, adequate insulation, storage space, and evidence of ongoing maintenance.

Negative findings could nullify a contract or provide a basis for negotiation between your realtor and the listing agent.

The Lay Of the Land

Small towns, farms, and independent businesses dot the landscape in this part of Wilkes County. Several vineyards and state parks attract visitors to these lovely rolling hills. Drive along any of the scenic roads, and new vistas open at every turn; the Blue Ridge Parkway is only half an hour away. Beautiful countryside!

The big oaks frame a sunrise.

My new home, a one-story house built in the 1940’s, sits on 1¼ acres of mostly level land. The view from the front porch looks over a field, a few houses, and downslope toward a small stream. Stunning sunrises greet me from that direction almost daily.

Most of the trees’ leaves have fallen from the massive limbs of the native white and willow oaks (Quercus alba and Q. phellos). A few of these trees tower over the eastern border of the property. In the summer, those toward the west will shade the house from hot afternoon sun.

The mighty oaks came first, judging by their size, and then the house. If I were to name the property, “Quercus Magnus” would seem fitting.

Preliminary Plans For New Gardens

There’s plenty of space for the berries and the vegetables to bask in the sun. Plenty of space to raise shade-loving perennials in the fenced enclosure north of the great oaks. And plenty of space for gardens that will support birds, bugs, bees, and butterflies.

Also, importantly, there’s room to grow plants to sell at the local farmers’ market, as I did in Maryland for 25 years.

After Moving In

Deciding what to do first depends on the season, your climate, and the condition of the house and gardens. Priorities often reflect our occupations or interests, so artists might first set up a studio while contractors organize tools in the outbuildings. Growing families might rank bicycle storage, a big kitchen, and an extra bathroom at the top of the list.

And gardeners? Well, we look at soil quality, existing gardens, and sunlight. This gardener prefers a large, mostly blank slate. Others call it a lawn.

In April, I’d be concerned about starting seeds for the market, getting the summer vegetables and flowers planted, and cutting grass. But it’s December now. The yard needs tidying, houseplants need to find their homes, and, of course, we must bake Christmas cookies. Not to mention, those boxes won’t unpack themselves!

Moving into a house that doesn’t need major repairs eases the stress. To be sure, there are some improvements that can and will be made, but nothing that needs immediate attention. Wouldn’t mind a new kitchen with a dishwasher, Santa. (Chocolate chip or almond crescents?)

Trees and Shrubs

Poor Pruning Practices

Walking around the property will highlight issues that need attention. Check the trees and shrubs for dead or broken branches, or call a licensed arborist for a professional assessment. There are some dead twigs way up in these oaks. A brisk wind shakes them loose, so the truck stays parked under the carport. Fortunately, that debris falls short of the house.

: Low branches that have been headed back.

: Some of the daily fallout.

I’ll hire an arborist to clean up the trees and remove branches that have been headed back. Heading back, or bluntly cutting off the end of a branch, causes many epicormic shoots to form. Those are new growing tips emerging from buds concentrated close to the cut. The shoots also can cover the length of the branch. Epicormic shoots have weak connections to the branch and, over time, most will fail and fall from the plant (photos, above).

Similarly, topping trees is, in my opinion, not recommended. Yes, it reduces the height, temporarily, but topped trees in winter are hardly natural-looking and not attractive (photo, below). They, too, drop twigs over an extended period of time.

An expert arborist might be able to undo the damage from heading back or topping. However, removing the tree might be the most economical solution. Research appropriate tree species for your property and where to plant them. Keep in mind that plants almost always achieve dimensions larger than those indicated on the label. Your local agricultural extension office can help. Check with botanical gardens and sources such as your state’s native plant societies.

A topped tree.

The Root Of the Problem

Trees planted close to the foundation can threaten its structural integrity. Consider having them removed.

The same ruthlessness applies to the wrong tree in any space. Keeping silver maples or weeping willows close to the house, septic system, or underground utilities begs for trouble. This is where an arborist or a well-informed landscaper can recommend more fitting species and a pleasing design for better curb appeal. Call 8-1-1 to have underground utility lines marked.

Constricted

Look for old stakes and wires still looped around trunks or branches. Wooden posts rot, but wire and synthetic rope from clotheslines, fences, and hammocks persist.

As trunks and branches grow in girth, they attempt to grow around the obstruction, cutting off the vascular system inside the bark. This results in the death of those parts of the tree that cannot receive water from the roots. Early fall color on isolated branches might indicate trouble, such as pests or physical constriction.

In the Maryland garden, a dogwood tree died for no apparent reason. After cutting it down and opening the bark in several places, I found plastic rope deeply embedded in the trunk a few feet from the ground. Although the damage appeared several years after I had moved there, it eventually killed a beautiful dogwood.

Flares and Girdling Roots

: Flare on an old oak tree.

: Girdling root on maple tree and no trunk flare.

Most trees flare out where the trunk descends into the ground. If this flare is missing, see if soil has been piled up against the trunk, and remove it.

Construction around unprotected trees can deposit soil that cuts off the oxygen supply to the roots, resulting in the plant’s decline. As little as an additional 1-2″ can damage trees. Also, parking vehicles over the root system compacts the soil, impeding air and water penetration. Keep in mind that tree roots extend well beyond the dripline, or the edge of the canopy.

Check for a girdling root crossing over the trunk at the soil line or below it. As it grows, the root will hinder growth of that section of the trunk, making the trunk look straight-sided where it enters the ground. Cut it out before the tree tries to grow around it. Maples and other surface-rooting trees are notorious for this.

There’s no flare at the base of this maple tree (photo, above) and at least one large girding root is constricting the flow of water and nutrients from the soil. I noticed large dead limbs in the canopy, so the tree might be removed.

English Ivy

English ivy growing up an oak tree.

Vining English ivy (Hedera helix) is growing up a white oak’s trunk, using rootlets to cling to the bark. All the vines will be removed for 4 main reasons.

First, English ivy is a woody vine, so its stems will grow in girth just as a tree branch does. As they wrap around the tree trunk or the limbs and thicken over the years, the ivy stems will constrict tree growth, killing limbs and possibly the tree.

Second, the evergreen ivy holds moisture and debris close to the bark, and could encourage insects and diseases.

Third, as ivy scampers over the ground and up the trees, it provides safe haven for rodents. Birds of prey and other predators cannot see them. Here’s a red-shouldered hawk perched in a dogwood tree, looking for dinner.

Fourth, ivy competes with small native plants, crowding them out.

So the ivy must go.

Headings

Page 1: A New Home and New Gardens! (Inspections), The Lay Of the Land (Preliminary Plans For New Gardens), After Moving In, Trees and Shrubs (Poor Pruning Practices, The Root Of the Problem, Constricted, Flares and Girdling Roots, English Ivy)

Page 2: The Lawn (Safety First, Less Grass To Mow, Grass Clippings, Spontaneous Combustion), Drainage (Hold the Water), New Gardens for Old Plants (Virginia Sweetspire), More New Gardens and Less Lawn (The Black Walnut, The Ravine and the Woodland, Passionflower and Phlox ‘Minnie Pearl’)

Page 3: Planting a Few Trees (The Rule Of Thirds, Too Cold To Plant New Gardens?, Viola, Different Players—Same Script, All Those Leaves), A Welcome Surprise (A Firm Foundation, Heeling In, Iris, Chores Indoors), Christmas Already?, and Concluding

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Tornado in Matthews NC! Time for Smaller Trees?

Feb13

2020

An old oak tree felled by the Matthews tornado.

Tornado!

I’ve been out of town for a few days, visiting family in New Jersey. On the return drive, the weather report on Charlotte’s WBT radio warned of impassable flooded streets and a tornado that had toppled old oaks and mature maples near my home, in Matthews, and in nearby towns. Over 3″ of rain fell last Thursday, swelling streams and rivers and saturating the ground. When the soil is that wet, it becomes more fluid; a brisk wind can push over 200-year-old trees.

Rot inside the trunk–a weak spot.

And that’s just what happened. Shallowly rooted evergreens and even perfectly healthy bare trees couldn’t stand up to the sustained high winds. Trees with rotten cores (photo, right) fell over at ground level or shattered some distance up the trunk. Healthy or somewhat compromised—it didn’t seem to matter. Tornadoes choose their victims indiscriminately.

On Friday, I drove around and saw those damaged trees, twisted and gnarled, some sheared of all their branches and leaves. On Pineville-Matthews Rd., the junipers, cypresses, and evergreen magnolias fell like dominoes, one against the next. For all the beauty Nature reveals to us, there’s always the flip side, too—devastation and death.

Police were out directing traffic. Stoplights were dark, and trees leaned on overhead wires. When this happens, remember to observe local laws. Here, we treat an intersection with a non-functioning stoplight as a 4-way stop. I was pleased to see cars on the main road come to a stop to allow vehicles lined up on the side streets their chance to proceed.

The main roads had been cleared of debris, but some of the side streets were still littered with limbs, piles of greenery, parts of roofs and fences, and road signs.

The Aftermath

After the tornado, something will benefit and grow after the wreckage has been removed. Shrubs and flowers that have been shaded by the thickening canopy will be reinvigorated by brighter light. And, of course, more weeds will grace our gardens.

Sure, we’ll have to move the shade lovers to more appropriate locations, or plant a new tree. Residents whose homes border main thoroughfares will reestablish screening plants that provide a measure of privacy. The silver lining in this cloud could also mean more fruitful harvests from our blueberry bushes and vegetable gardens. But, certainly, we’ll miss our trees.

Half the tree landed on this house in Matthews NC.

Roots or Consequences

Checking the NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) website confirmed the presence of a few tornadoes in the Carolinas on February 6. Around 12:15 p.m., an EF1 tornado cut a swath 150 yards wide and 17 1/2 miles long south of Charlotte, from Pineville to Matthews. It lasted 16 minutes, with winds that reached 95 miles per hour.

Warm moist air masses clashed with strong cooler fronts, setting this severe weather pattern into motion. Local media recorded some of the devastation.

There were no deaths in this area, although two casualties, unfortunately, were reported elsewhere in North Carolina. I spoke with a man in Matthews, who said his aunt and uncle were in the room right below where part of a tree trunk had crashed through the roof. They were not injured, thankfully, but the Fire Department declared the home unsafe to occupy (photo, above).

Pancakes

It’s incredible, when viewing the uprooted plants, that almost all the tree roots are in the top foot or 18″ of the soil. You’d think that these 50′ or 80′ tall trees would have deep roots that anchor them to the ground, but most do not.

Compacted soil, bedrock, and natural growth patterns for the species keep the roots shallow. And there is more of the necessary oxygen, fertility, and microbial activity closer to the surface. So, tree roots spread out from the trunk in search of water and nutrients, extending farther than the drip line.

When the force of the wind is stronger than the ability of the tree’s roots to hold it in place against resistance, the tree will succumb. Plants might hold up at first, but, after a while, trees can begin to fall over.

: A toppled tree in Matthews, with a 10′ wide “pancake” of roots.

: Three 40′ tall pine trees in the Raintree area.

Time for a Tree Check-Up

A huge tree, at least 100 years old.

This might be a good time for a tree health check-up from a licensed arborist. Granted, there are no guarantees. But a trained specialist will notice aspects of the tree’s growth that could indicate the likelihood of trouble in the future. Pruning trees properly when they’re young and as they grow, if they need pruning at all, will improve their branching structure for decades to come.

The arborist might find decay where a few trunks come together 30′ from the ground. This is where leaves and water might have been collecting for years, eventually rotting the bark. Decay then spreads deeper into the interior wood. Also, as trunks and large congested branches grow in girth, they compete with each other, compromising transport of water and nutrients, and, therefore, structure and strength. Many of the trees that came down in this tornado had rotten cores.

A topped tree, showing all the weak epicormic shoots.

Another weak point occurs where several stems grow as a result of topping or heading back the trunk or side branches. Those epicormic shoots (photo, above) have feeble connections to the wood and will compete with each other. Most of them fall from the tree over time. Never top a tree! It’s a difficult decision to make, but you’re probably better off replacing large trees that have outlived their usefulness (too large, too close to the house) instead of topping them.

Another clue to look for is a missing flare. That part of the trunk looks flat (vertical) where it enters the ground. This usually indicates a girdling root or some other obstruction underground, and possibly a sparse root system on that side.

Mother Nature does not issue guarantees. Sturdy trees that give no indication that anything is wrong can blow over in high winds.

Trees for Shade

In areas with hot summers, such as here in the Carolinas, we love our trees. We value our family’s lives and the integrity of our homes, of course, so it makes sense to evaluate the plants on our properties, especially those standing close to structures.

Certainly, a mature tree canopy helps reduce energy bills and adds aesthetic value. But ignoring unhealthy trees or pruning them improperly can be very costly in the long run.

Alternatives to Towering Trees

Magnolia Flowers Plant Petals - ottawagraphics / Pixabay

Small to medium cultivars of magnolia are suitable for most home landscapes.

Although you might be inclined to replace a dead tree with the same species, now is the perfect time to reconsider that choice. Visit a reputable garden center and ask the tree expert for recommendations. ‘Bradford’ pear? Silver maple? Weeping willow? No thanks!

There are many other options that will fit better in your landscape. Find species with strong branch attachments, and those that won’t litter the ground and fill the gutters with twigs or fruits every time a breeze blows through the neighborhood.

Landscape Considerations

Always look at the scale of the site, how your home fits into the local surroundings. A 3-story Victorian could look lovely framed by a natural stand of stately scarlet oaks. If they’re growing 15′ from the sunroom, you could enjoy the shade for 10 years or even 50. But a microburst or a tornado could send tons of wood hurling toward Logan’s antique Firebird…or your home.

It’s safer to locate the tallest trees much farther from the house. Then you won’t have to deal with the oak tree’s acorns in the driveway every year.

Ask about native trees and shrubs, although there are so many beautiful exotic species I must have. Each species has many cultivars to choose from. If one tree doesn’t seem substantial enough, plant three or five of them in a raised bed, properly spaced. Perhaps large shrubs will work better for your situation or in tight spaces.

Add drifts of small shrubs, perennials, groundcovers, a patch of colorful annuals, and spring flowering bulbs for a complete garden. Mulch to suppress weeds, conserve moisture, and prevent erosion.

A Short List of Small to Medium Size Trees

American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana)
Birch (Betula ‘Whitespire Senior’ and others)
Carolina silverbell (Halesia)
Chaste tree (Vitex)
Chinese pistache (Pistache chinensis)
Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
Dwarf evergreen magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora ‘Little Gem’)
Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis)
Flowering dogwood (Cornus spp.)
Fringe tree (Chionanthus spp.)
Full-moon maple (Acer japonicum)
Golden chain tree (Laburnum)
Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)
Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonica)
Lilac (Syringa)
Magnolia (Magnolia spp.)
Paperbark maple (Acer griseum)
Parrotia (Parrotia persica)
Peanut butter tree (Clerodendrum trichotomum, can be invasive)
Serviceberry (Amelanchier)
Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum)
Stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia)
Witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.)
Smaller varieties of oak, birch, maple, tupelo, plum, crabapple, cherry, conifers.

Do Your Research

Research cold/heat hardiness (USDA plant hardiness zones), disease resistance, forms and colors that will enhance your property’s appearance, and seeds or fruits that feed wildlife. Include some natives in your garden to support diversity of local insect and animal species.

: One of the small cherry trees.

: Japanese snowbell, Styrax cultivar.

: Fall color of crape myrtle.

Severe weather events can cause considerable damage to our homes. Each year, they claim human lives. The cost for cleaning up and repairing the damage is quite high, but, of course, some of the losses we can’t recover.

The United States leads the world in the number of tornadoes, averaging more than 1,000 annually. North Carolina averages 22 per year. The states with the highest number of tornadoes, in descending order, are Texas (135/year), Kansas, Oklahoma, Nebraska, and Iowa.

Although a tornado will alter the look of our landscape, this is an opportunity to view it with a fresh perspective. Looking into the future, planting smaller trees and shrubs appropriate for the site might prevent the heartache of real loss.

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Fig Trees: How To Grow Edible Figs

Jun4

2019

updated 4/14/2024

Delectable, Edible Figs

The plant wish list grows longer each day. Within the next couple of years, I hope to move to a property with larger garden space, so I can shrink that list. First to be planted will be a couple of fig trees…blonde figs, purple figs…

Many years ago, our local Derwood, Maryland grocery store brought in fresh figs. I couldn’t believe it. So, I indulged in the extravagance, and bought a small box, at $9.00 or $10.00 per pound. The last time I had had fresh figs was about 25 years earlier, in Oradell, New Jersey… …

As a young girl, my first introduction to the delectable fig was when my maternal grandfather picked them from trees growing in his Englewood garden, two towns over. A substantial brick wall surrounded the back yard, as I recall, just beyond the monstrous cast iron stove in the kitchen.

My grandfather’s figs grew on the right side of the garden. On the left were my grandmother’s tomatoes, herbs, and where she threw out bread for the birds. I can still hear them—sparrows, tons of sparrows!

Papa’s Fig Trees

Salvatore and Catherina D’Arrigo married in Sicily, after, according to tradition, his sisters had been married and settled into their homes. Now, in 1906, they sailed across the Atlantic, to enjoy a new life of freedom and opportunity in the United States. After passing through Ellis Island, they settled near extended family members in Bergen County, New Jersey.

Nanny and Papa D’Arrigo, before setting sail for America.

Industrious and self-sufficient, Nanny and Papa wasted no time getting down to business. They opened a tavern/restaurant and purchased a house. I imagine that, like Johnny Appleseed, wherever my grandfather landed, a fig tree grew. That part of the eastern seaboard, though, is quite cold in the winter, and not considered “fig country”.

But my grandfather had some tricks that worked, apparently, for his fig trees. In addition to his skills in business, Papa was also a landscape gardener. Must be in the DNA!

Every autumn, after the trees went dormant, he surgically severed part of the root system near the base of the tree. He bent over the trunk of the fig tree until it was just above the ground. Then he covered the trunk and branches with piles of leaves and burlap…all tucked in for the winter. In early spring, each fig tree was raised, pruned, and staked. (Other family members recall the standing trees simply being cloaked in layers of burlap, so he might have tried different methods.)

Recently I read that this was a common practice in Boston, New York City, Philadelphia, and other cold cities where the fig tree could not survive without a little manipulation.

Second Helping

It was a full half century after my grandparents had arrived on these shores when I had my first… fresh… fig from their garden. Papa passed away when I was 10 or 11, and Nanny, 5 years after that. So, we didn’t have too many years to enjoy those figs, but they certainly made an impression.

A quarter century after the last of Papa’s figs, those fresh figs showed up at the grocery store in Maryland. And yes! They tasted exactly as I had remembered them!

Origins Of the Fig Tree

The common fig (Ficus carica) is native to Turkey. By 5,000 B.C., it had been distributed throughout the Middle East and the Mediterranean region by Greek and Roman traders. Fig trees readily adapted to hot, dry summers and mildly cool winters, and they also made their way to England and China. They grow from sea level up to over 5,000′ in elevation.

But its roots go back much further than that. At a Neolithic archaeological site called Gilgal I, in the Jordan Rift Valley, evidence shows that fig trees were cultivated 11,400 years ago.

Remains of a plant found in a home dating to that period indicate that early populations knew how to vegetatively propagate fig trees from cuttings. The parthenocarpic “mutant” they grew was a sterile form that bore fruit without pollination.

Cultivated for human consumption, figs are probably the oldest domesticated crop. Figs predate by a thousand years the earliest agricultural grains—wheat, barley, and rye.

Sumerian stone tablets from 2500 B.C. recorded culinary uses of the fruit. For thousands of years, before sugar gained widespread use, figs sweetened foods and desserts.

Legendary twins Romulus and Remus have been depicted under the bough of a fig tree as they were fed by the mother wolf. The forbidden fruit, of Bible fame, was probably the fig and not the apple. Figs have long figured in religious symbolism, associated with peace, prosperity, and fertility.

The term “fig” was first used in the English language in the 13th century. It is derived from the Old French figue, and the Romance fica (Ficus is the genus name for edible figs and for the hundreds of tropical species).

The Fig Moves To The New World

Early explorers brought fig trees to the New World as early as the 15th century. And the Spanish Franciscan missionaries are credited with planting figs in southern California from 1769. ‘Mission’ is a well-known variety, with excellent flavor and sweetness. It is parthenocarpic, not requiring pollination to set fruits.

Worldwide Production

Worldwide, Turkey produces the most figs, with 26% of the crop. Egypt, Algeria, Morocco, Iran, and the U.S. round out the rest of the top 6 producers. California, with a climate similar to the tree’s native land, grows almost the entire American commercial crop. Texas comes second.

Figs as Houseplants

Variegated weeping fig.

This article describes the edible fig, which grows outdoors. The weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), the creeping fig (Ficus pumila), the rubber plant (Ficus elastica), and the ever-popular fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) are primarily tropical houseplants, but they don’t produce edible figs for humans.

The edible fig tree does not grow well or produce fruit indoors.

Inside the Box

My father’s career centered around food photography, mostly with the Nabisco cookie company. We kids were delighted when he brought home samples of Fig Newtons, first becoming available in 1891. In fact, as a teenager, I spent one summer at the Fair Lawn NJ Nabisco plant deftly packing boxes of chocolate chip cookies and Fig Newtons.

This explains not only my fondness for these cookies, but also my complete aversion to anything sticky. Dirt’s okay; sticky is not.

If It’s Too Cold

Okay, I was determined to grow a fig tree. Most experts at the time said they wouldn’t survive Maryland’s cold winters. Much later, with a little research, I learned that there are several hardier varieties of fig trees. Most fig trees grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9, with a few growing in zone 6, and several tolerating warmer zones. ‘Chicago Hardy’ is hardy to zone 5. Before choosing a particular variety, check its hardiness zone from a few sources. There are over 200 varieties to choose from.

A garden center called Behnke’s Nursery was the go-to place for plant nerds like me. But it was some distance around the clogged Beltway circling Washington, D.C., in Beltsville, Maryland. They retailed more species of plants than I had ever seen. Certainly, they’d have figs!

I bought a variety called ‘Brown Turkey’, one of two types available. The next year, I transplanted it into a bigger pot. Smaller varieties of figs can grow in 20-gallon pots or larger. The plan was to grow it outside in the summer, let it drop its leaves in the fall, and then move it into the unheated garage for the winter. There, it wouldn’t suffer from the lowest winter temperatures. And, because the fig tree bears fruit even when growing in a large container, this small effort would have fruitful dividends.

This routine served us well for several years, until that killer winter. One year, the temperatures dropped to lows we had rarely seen, and the wind blew its icy breath through the gaps around the garage door. My fault—I didn’t raise the fig tree off the floor or move it inside. Consequently, it froze solid and died. When the garage door was replaced, I went for the more expensive well-insulated model.

A Nod To Behnke’s

Just a few weeks ago, I read in one of the trade magazines that, sadly, Behnke’s is about to close its doors. Another pillar collapses. Many in the gardening world, it seemed, knew this company.

In fact, recently at the Hendersonville Garden Jubilee, Larry Morton, the bonsai vendor at Bella Bonsai Nursery, told me that he had worked there for a few years in the ’60’s. Small world… Here’s to Albert and Rose Behnke, German immigrants, who opened this nursery almost 90 years ago.

Headings

Page 1: Delectable, Edible Figs, Papa’s Fig Trees, Origins Of the Fig Tree (The Fig Moves To The New World, Worldwide Production, Figs as Houseplants, Inside the Box), and If It’s Too Cold (A Nod To Behnke’s)

Page 2: How To Plant and Grow Fig Trees, Hardiness, Sun, Soil Preparation For Fig Trees, Time To Plant (Mulch), Watering Fig Trees, Fertilizing, Pruning Fig Trees, Foliage, Fruits Of Fig Trees, That Little Fig Wasp, Problems, Types of Fig Trees, and Varieties of Fig Trees

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Quick Tip for Today’s Garden: Start Here!

Mar24

Some Quick Tips In Today’s Garden

As the weather warms, it’s time to turn our attention to a few garden chores. I’m going to attempt to keep each Quick Tip short, and direct you to the links where you’ll find a lot more details.

Early crocuses.

Quick Tip #1: Spring-Flowering Bulbs

It’s no secret—I love spring-flowering bulbs! My last home in Maryland had thousands of them. Jolly daffodils, fragrant hyacinths, early snowdrops, crocuses in every color, big clumps of wood hyacinths, electric blue scilla and tiny pink ones… Grape hyacinths in white, pink, and shades of blue… Species tulips, Ipheion, Chionodoxa, the reliable spreading Puschkinia, and stately Allium. There were fritillarias, Eranthis (photo below), Erythronium, Dutch and rock garden iris, and the invasively spreading Ornithogalum. Even a snake’s head iris or two.

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis).

Bulbs bloomed before the winter snows had melted away, all the way through spring. Five months of flowers! Before one finished its bloom cycle, others began theirs. But spring-flowering bulbs weren’t the only stars of the garden. There were Helleborus and Siberian Iris, lilies and azaleas, and Fothergilla, Viburnum and Tiarella among the many other shrubs, trees, and perennials. And violas, of course!

“Okay, so what should I do with them now?”

Fertilize Them

By early spring, daffodil foliage is fully developed here in the Carolinas, and the early varieties are beginning to fade. Fertilize when the bulbs are near or at peak bloom. The reason I prefer not to fertilize them as soon as the foliage emerges is because the nutrients could cause exuberant growth. The soft growth in these leaves and flowers is more likely to cause them to flop over.

Use a complete product formulated specifically for bulbs rather than just bone meal. Foliage will continue to photosynthesize for weeks, sending energy to the bulbs, “restocking the larder”. Carbohydrates stored in the bulbs sustain the plants through their summer dormancy and ensure that the bulbs will flower again next year.

Lightly fertilize the bulb beds again in late summer to autumn, when new roots emerge from the bulbs. Water well if the soil is dry from drought. If you’ve tended annuals above the bulbs and fertilized them now and then, you can skip the bulbs’ fall fertilization.

Wait For Them To Yellow Naturally

In an effort to tidy up the yard, many gardeners braid the green leaves or remove them entirely after the blooms fade. But the bulbs rely on spring sunshine reaching the leaves to make enough food for themselves. That’s how the bulbs grow larger and develop flower buds for next year’s display.

Wait until the foliage is yellow or brown before cutting it at soil level. Don’t braid or knot the leaves, which interferes with photosynthesis.

Remove Old Flowers

Daffodil ‘Tête-à-Tête’ with faded flower and developing seedpod.

Snip off old flowers before they have a chance to ripen seeds. This is especially important for the large flowers, such as daffodil, hyacinth, and tulip.

All energy should be directed into plumping up the bulbs for next year instead of into seed production. Small bulbs are often encouraged to spread by seed, so it is not critical to deadhead them.

Divide Them

Did your daffodils bloom heavily this spring? Or did you see a lot of leaves and only a few blooms? If the plantings seem to be declining, wait until the foliage has turned yellow or brown. Then carefully dig up the clumps, label the colors or the cultivar names, if known, divide, and transplant them. The most common reasons for fewer flowers are:

Not enough direct sun. As our landscapes mature, the shrubs’ branches begin to overgrow the bulbs. Shading the bulbs’ foliage weakens them to the point that they die out.
Not planted deep enough. Shallowly planted bulbs divide up, forming many small bulblets, which are too small to flower.
Wet soil that kills the bulbs. Plant new ones this fall in well-prepared beds, making sure water drains freely. Incorporate a large amount of pine fines, coarse sand, and/or horticultural grit, which elevates the bed. Gypsum helps improve drainage if used annually for a few or several years.
Poor soil or soil that is severely compacted cannot sustain life. There’s no shortcut when it comes to soil preparation. But if there’s not much you can do about soil quality, plant grape hyacinths, galanthus, puschkinia, and crocuses. These are planted closer to the surface. With some bulb fertilizer and a cover of mulch (1″ or 2″ of shredded hardwood), they’ll have a good chance of surviving.

Quick Tip #2: Liriope, Mounding Or Spreading?

Liriope (pronounced “lir eye’ uh pee”) is a workhorse of a ground cover. One of my favorite plants to use in large drifts under trees or through a shrub border is a variety called ‘Royal Purple’. It blooms in mid- to late summer, depending on location.

I don’t know why this cultivar is not well-known in landscape circles, but the common “blue lilyturf” is the one usually seen. The flower of ‘Royal Purple’, as the name suggests, is a rich deep purple and far prettier in the garden. Try it in front of or near large chartreuse or gold hostas for a stunning combination.

Liriope muscari ‘Royal Purple’.

The Spreading Liriope Spicata

There are two species of liriope often seen at garden centers. One is Liriope spicata, an aggressive spreader, and the one that gives lilyturf a bad reputation. It will creep into narrow cracks in the sidewalk, it will invade the territory originally claimed by Heuchera and other perennials, and it will take over the lawn.

Sure, there are some applications where this species has value, such as in inaccessible areas, in ditches, or on banks. It also will cover large areas under trees. Liriope is related to hosta and daylily in the Asparagaceae family, and all can effectively prevent soil erosion. They have extensive root systems that knit the soil together. But, if you want liriope that doesn’t spread, choose the mounding varieties of liriope.

The Mounding Liriope Muscari

The other species, Liriope muscari, grows in clumps and does not run all over the place. L. muscari is the species to which ‘Royal Purple’ belongs. Another popular variety, with cream- or yellow-variegated leaves, brightens up a shady area and has rich purple flowers. There’s a white flowering variety called ‘Monroe’s White’, for shade, and a pink one, and some with lavender or fan-shaped flowers.

The clumps will expand over time, but they’re well-behaved in garden beds. Most cultivars grow in sun or in shade. In regions with hot summers, though, morning sun or dappled shade is less stressful than full or afternoon sun.

Notice the mnemonic?

Quick tip: “spreading spicata” and “mounding muscari” refer to those species’ growth habits. When shopping for this plant, look for the species that will suit the purpose for which it was intended. The invasive tendency of Liriope spicata has turned many people off to any kind of liriope.

Cutting Back

Old tattered foliage of liriope.

Narrow leaves begin to emerge in late winter to mid-spring. Last year’s foliage can look a little ragged by springtime, especially in colder areas of the country. The tips of the leaves often become frayed, and much of the foliage might have turned brown over winter. And the local deer population can cause damage. Place some dried blood among the clumps to discourage them, or spray with a deer repellent, especially as they come into bloom.

New foliage emerging in center of clump.

Before applying a fresh layer of mulch to dress up the beds for the season, cut back the old liriope foliage. This will remove the old foliage, considered unsightly by some gardeners. Raise the lawnmower’s deck, if necessary, and mow down the liriope to remove old brown foliage.

But this must be done before new leaves begin to shoot up from the center of the clump. Delaying this until after new growth has emerged will chop off the ends of tender leaves, leaving brown tips on new green growth. And don’t try this on recently planted liriope, which can be yanked out of the ground.

An alternative is to cut each clump by hand if there aren’t that many plants. Sharp scissors will do the trick. You can either collect the trimmings and compost them, or let them lie on the ground, to be covered by fresh mulch. Remove diseased foliage to the trash. A string trimmer might work, if it cuts and doesn’t shred the leaves.

And Fertilize

When there are so many chores that need attention in spring, I usually bury old leaves under a fresh 1″ layer of shredded hardwood mulch. The buried leaves will break down in the soil. Be sure to leave the crown of the plant uncovered.

Before applying mulch, broadcast granular fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, to the liriope, but prevent it from landing in the crown of the plant. Compost is an excellent fertilizer.

Liriope Diseases

Liriope can sometimes be infected with anthracnose, a disease that causes reddish-brown spots or dieback on leaves when they should be dark green. Remove clippings from the garden when cutting back the foliage of infected plants. Keep the foliage dry and increase air circulation by not crowding plants. Thinning the tree branches in the canopy above the liriope planting will allow more light to reach the plants.

Crown rot shows up as yellowing or browning at the base of the leaves, eventually consuming the entire plant. These plants should be removed and discarded. Avoid watering late in the day, which keeps leaves wet during the night when diseases take hold. Try not to include them in the irrigation pattern.

Plant liriope in well-drained soil, and, once established, water them in the morning once a week during times of drought, but don’t keep them wet. Annual applications of gypsum will help condition the soil and improve drainage.

Spacing

Liriope planted about 2′ apart

A common mistake is planting this ground cover too sparsely. These clumping liriopes (photo) are planted over 2′ on center. Liriope will not expand to fill the spaces between these plants any time soon. Instead, weeds will take this opportunity to colonize the bed.

Planted 12″ to 14″ apart, liriope will cover the ground, shading it and cutting down on much of the potential weeding.

In soil that is well-amended with compost and pine fines, liriope will expand more vigorously and have better-looking foliage in winter. In poor soils, it probably won’t die, but it will struggle.

Quick Tip #3: Garden Bed Edging

: Old concrete edging, bordering raised bed.

: Iberis (candytuft) spilling over the concealed edging, with reblooming iris behind it.

There are many contrivances designed to mark the edge of a bed. Whatever your personal preference is, go for it—white scalloped concrete or wire segments, bricks on a diagonal tilt, wooden ties, or heavy black plastic spiked to the ground.

I used a garden spade, with a sharp straight blade, to simply cut a steep angle 3″ into the ground. This suffices to stop most lawn grasses from spreading into the bed for a few months.

Diagonal brick edging looks quaint in Williamsburg. But if I used bricks, I preferred to “plant” them end-to-end almost flush with the ground. This forms a convenient mowing strip between the bed and the lawn, over which the mower’s wheels could follow the outline of the bed. And it’s less conspicuous.

In the back yard, in the informal Maryland gardens, gray or brown rocks lined the beds. If they were unearthed from and couldn’t be used on landscape work sites, I took them home. The edging was softened by plants that crept over and between them. There was no grass in the back yard, so these rocks functioned to define the mulch pathways and raised borders.

Is the Edging Too Conspicuous?

Brightly colored materials edging garden beds, such as colorful rocks or painted concrete segments, are conspicuous by their presence. The edging materials can end up getting all the attention instead of your exquisitely designed plant combinations. See if the boundaries can be maintained with the spade or with more muted shades of planted bricks or stones.

Headings

Page 1: Quick Tip #1: Spring-Flowering Bulbs (Fertilize Them, Wait For Them To Yellow Naturally, Remove Old Flowers, Divide Them), Quick Tip #2: Liriope: Mounding Or Spreading? (The Spreading Liriope Spicata, The Mounding Liriope Muscari, Cutting Back, And Fertilize, Liriope Diseases, Spacing), and Quick Tip #3: Garden Bed Edging (Is the Edging Too Conspicuous?)

Page 2: Quick Tip #4: Cutting Back Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Other Perennials That Could Benefit), Quick Tip #5: How To Divide Hosta (Hosta Flowers, Fertilizer, Divide and Multiply: Preparation, and Dig, Divide, and Replace), and Quick Tip #6: Pruning Early-Flowering Shrubs (Renewal Pruning, A Personal Perspective on Pruning)

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Poinsettias: Merry and Bright!

Dec17

Poinsettias in December

Poinsettias have long been associated with Christmas celebrations and are the most popular indoor flowering plants. They appear as early as mid-November in every garden center, grocery store, florist, Christmas craft show, and hardware store across the country.

Recently, I bought one called ‘Ruby Frost’ (bred by Syngenta). It’s a short plant that fits perfectly under a table lamp. I prefer some of the novelty colors, such as the very pale, creamy peach Premium ‘Apricot’, but I didn’t see it this year. ‘Visions of Grandeur’ (Ecke) is another favorite, with soft pale pink bracts. It is stunning when grown to a large size.

Over 100 varieties are available, with new ones advertising improved features, such as darker leaves and longer-lasting bracts. The colorful parts, sometimes called flowers, are actually modified leaves called bracts. True flowers are the small yellow and red parts in the center of the youngest bracts. Poinsettias are also being bred for resistance to necrotic leaf margins, a physiological condition where the edges of bracts or leaves turn brown due to calcium deficiency.

History of Poinsettias

As you can see from the photograph below, wild poinsettias look quite different from the ones we grow today in greenhouses. The plant is native to tropical deciduous forests of Mexico, where they grow from 2′ to 12′ tall.

Seven hundred years ago, the Aztecs called the plant Cuetlaxochitl, and used the red bracts for dye. The white latex had antipyretic properties, and the Aztecs used it for treating fever (but don’t try this at home). King Netzahualcoyotl considered the poinsettia a symbol of purity, as did the Aztec King Montezuma in the 1500’s.

Wild poinsettia.

The first U.S. ambassador to Mexico (1825-1829), Joel Roberts Poinsett, introduced the plant to the United States in 1825 after seeing them in the area now known as Taxco. Poinsett, a physician and botanist, shipped specimens to his greenhouse in Greenville (or Charleston, depending on source), South Carolina. He also sent plants to Philadelphia botanist John Bartram, who, in turn, gave plants to Robert Bruist, a nurseryman who named them Euphorbia pulcherrima Willd.

Poinsettia flowers, the cyathia.

More than 700 species belong to the Euphorbia genus, a member of the Euphorbiaceae, or spurge, family, and have in common the characteristic white sticky latex sap. A Euphorbia flower generally comprises a single female flower, without sepals, surrounded by male flowers in a cyathium (plural: cyathia). The small flowers are located in the center of the colorful bracts, which attract the attention of pollinators.

Poinsettias are not poisonous, as was previously thought. Children and family pets chewing on the leaves or stems find out fast that better things await them on, or under, the dinner table. Those rare individuals who are allergic to the sap and develop a rash should immediately seek medical attention.

The Christmas Connection

The origin of poinsettias as a Christmas tradition began in the 1500’s, in Mexico, with a poor young girl named either Pepita or Maria. Because she was unable to provide a gift to celebrate Jesus’ birthday, she was inspired by an angel to gather weeds into a bouquet and to place them by the church altar. Red blossoms sprouted from the weeds, the story goes, which turned into poinsettias.

By the 1600’s, Franciscan priests in Mexico included them in Christmas celebrations. Around the same time, the writings of a botanist named Juan Balme began to appear, describing the poinsettia.

Modern Culture of Poinsettias

In 1923, Mrs. Enteman of Jersey City, New Jersey, discovered the first oak-leaved seedling and named it, appropriately, ‘Oak Leaf’. This was the first selection suitable for pot culture. Up until the 1960’s, all selections and sports are credited with having ‘Oak Leaf’ heritage.

Poinsettias were first grown as cut flowers (‘True Red’, ‘Early Red’), and were raised in outdoor fields before moving into greenhouses in the 1960’s. Paul Ecke, a California nurseryman, began breeding, in the 1920’s, most of the varieties grown today. His company discovered a way to breed plants that branched freely. So, for decades, this secret method allowed Ecke to remain the dominant grower…until the secret was revealed by a student, this story goes. Good branching structure and shorter stems culminated in their ‘Eckespoint Freedom’, in 1992.

Pennsylvania State University, the University of Maryland, and several commercial breeding programs proliferated in the 1950’s. Dr. Robert N. Stewart, of the Univ. of Maryland’s Agricultural Research Center in Beltsville MD, bred poinsettias with stiff stems, large bracts, and new colors. ‘Paul Mikkelsen’, named in 1963, was the first long-lasting poinsettia crop. ‘Annette Hegga Red’, with multi-bracted stems from pinching, and other sports were imported from Norway in 1964.

Before these new improvements came on the gardening scene, poinsettias grew long stems and were trained to look like a paperclip—“tromboning”, it was called.

Currently, California leads the nation (total: 34 million plants) in the number of poinsettias grown. The USDA reports that, in 2013, California grew 6 million plants. North Carolina came in second, with 4.4 million pots grown. Then Texas with 3.7 million pots, and Florida and Ohio, each with about 3 million pots. Red is the most popular color, claiming ¾ of all U.S. sales, followed by white, and then pink.

Poinsettias accounted for 23% of all U.S. indoor flowering potted plant sales in 2013. They contributed $144 million of the $618 million in this category.

Varieties

: ‘Princettia’ poinsettia.

: Red poinsettia.

Looking for a basic red poinsettia is no longer a simple task. There are cherry reds and scarlet reds, deep velvety reds and burgundies. Some bloom early and some bloom later, and can last in color for months! There are plants with dark green foliage or a lighter shade of green. And there’s ‘Winter Rose’ (Ecke) with bracts that are curled, resembling a rosette. ‘Carousel’ (Ecke) adds a bit of a frill, with its wavy-edged bracts. ‘Mirage’ and ‘Lyra’ (both from Syngenta) were introduced in 2017. Every year or two, new introductions come to the marketplace.

Solid pinks, in shades from very pale to vibrant, and from clear pink to peach to salmon, broaden the palette. And, of course, there’s white, although most white poinsettias are creamy yellow and mature somewhat white, as in ‘Freedom White’ and the recent ‘Merry White’ (Selecta). The newer ‘Princettia’ series does have a pure white variety, and also several pink shades. These colors offer tones that fit better, stylistically, in many homes.

: Orange poinsettia.

: A painted poinsettia.

If bright rich orange is your color, there’s a poinsettia for you! ‘Lemon Drop’ and ‘Gold Rush’ bring even more color selections. But the traditional reds, such as the ‘Freedom’, ‘Prestige’, ‘Premier’, and ‘Viking’ series are still the favorites and readily available.

For those who dare, spray paints and glitter can be applied. White poinsettias suddenly, magically, become blue or purple! Very striking, unnatural some would say, and not for the faint of heart!

Variegated Bracts and Foliage

A poinsettia with variegated bracts.

Variegated leaves, with creamy yellow margins, add another dimension, as in ‘Holly Point’. The newer ‘Tapestry’ (Ecke; photo, end of this section) is more vigorous than ‘Holly Point’ and more resistant to necrotic leaf margins. Foliage is gray-green in the center, and bracts are cherry red.

‘Mars Marble’ has cream margins with soft pink in the center of the bracts. ‘Christmas Angel Marbella’ (Selecta) also has creamy margins around salmon-pink centers.

For something a little different, there are series with spotted and splotched bracts. ‘Glitter’ (Ecke), ‘Shimmer Surprise’, ‘Tri-Color’, and ‘Jingle Bells’ look as if they’ve been splattered by white or pink paint. Some cultivars have yellow spots!

‘Ice Punch’ has red bracts with a blaze of pinkish white in the center. ‘Ruby Frost’ offers marbling in shades of pink, white, and red. (Note: the plant I purchased was labeled ‘Ruby Frost’, but it differs in appearance from photos in NC State Poinsettia Trials.)

: Varieties with spotted bracts have varying amounts of cream.

: ‘Ruby Frost’?

‘Strawberries and Cream’ (photo, below) is a diminutive variety, often grown in a 4 1/2″ pot. It has oak-leaved bracts that are cream on the margin and deep salmon pink in the center. Because of its size, it fits nicely in a basket with small-leaved English ivy, a Norfolk Island pine, and a young fern. Cover the pots with Spanish moss, add a bow, and you’re all set!

To hide bare stems near the bottom of the plant, simply add sprigs of evergreens and pine cones. Or use them in baskets, lined with plastic to prevent leakage, with other plants surrounding the bare stems. Keep them in the pots and move the plants around until you arrive at a pleasing arrangement.

: ‘Tapestry’, with variegated foliage.

: ‘Apricot’ and ‘Strawberries and Cream’.

Headings

Page 1: Poinsettias in December, History of Poinsettias, The Christmas Connection, Modern Culture of Poinsettias, Varieties, and Variegated Bracts and Foliage

Page 2: How To Care For Poinsettias (Growing Conditions), Outdoors For the Summer, And Back Indoors Again, and National Poinsettia Day

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The Fiddle-Leaf Fig: Ficus Lyrata

Jun13

“What’s Wrong With My Fiddle-Leaf Fig?”

There are few houseplants that exemplify architectural presence to the degree that Ficus lyrata does. Turn the pages in any home decor magazine or visit an online furniture showroom and you’ll see a statuesque fiddle-leaf fig in the corner of a perfectly-appointed living room. “That’s what mine used to look like,” you’re thinking, as you lament the pitiable specimen clinging to life in the spare bedroom.

Large plants can cost hundreds of dollars. Even a small bushy fiddle-leaf fig at the garden center can run $40.00 or more. It’s worthwhile to get this one right. The following suggestions might help.

Light

A fiddle-leaf fig grown as a standard.

Indoors, the fiddle-leaf fig prefers 2 or 3 hours of direct sunlight in the morning or early afternoon, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. During the summer months, keep the plant away from hot sun; it needs adequate air circulation between the plant and the window. Leaves can burn if they’re too close to the glass.

Skylights, light-colored floors and walls, and large windows that expose the plant to very bright indirect light for most of the day might provide enough light for the fig to remain reasonably healthy. But growth will be stronger in partial sun.

During the cooler months of the year, figs welcome a few more hours of direct sunlight.

Blame It On Hormones

The segment of a young stem (the internode) between leaf attachments (the nodes) will lengthen in response to lower light levels. Hormones cause cells in the shady side of the stem to elongate. That’s why the stem turns toward the light (phototropism).

A fully shaded stem will stretch as the plant searches for a stronger source of light. This stretch will be noticeable in the softer tip growth; woody stems won’t elongate.

If the leaves were stacked closely together at one point, and now they’re spaced farther apart along the stem, the plant is not getting as much light as it was before. Adequate sunlight keeps a plant more compact by preventing internode stretch.

Don’t place the plant in low light or in the corners of a room despite what you see in those magazines or in other media. If the fig tree doesn’t receive adequate light, it will begin to decline. One of the first signs that the plant is in decline is loss of leaves. And fig trees are notorious for signaling distress!

Watering the Fiddle-Leaf Fig

When the top 2″ or 3″ of soil in a large pot feels dry to the touch, it might be time to water. Don’t just feel the surface of the soil, though. You must feel the soil well below the surface. Although it feels dry on the top of the root ball, the soil could be moist enough 6″ down.

A narrow unfinished wooden dowel inserted most of the way into the soil will indicate the need for water if it comes up dry. Let it sit in place for 15-20 minutes before removing it.

Most moisture meters I’ve tested did not truly measure the moisture in the soil. The expensive models should be more accurate. Or lift the pot. After a while, you get a “feel” for how heavy a pot of moist soil weighs.

A full, leafy plant in a small pot dries faster than an overpotted sparsely-leaved plant. Don’t allow the entire root ball to go completely dry, but don’t keep it wet all the time either. If in doubt, don’t water, especially in cloudy weather. If there’s no sign of wilt, the fiddle-leaf fig can go another day or two without watering.

Never let the plant sit in a saucer of water for more than 20 minutes. Remove any water that is not absorbed through the drainage holes in that period of time. The soil in a tall pot will absorb water by capillarity up to a certain point. At that level, the force of gravity overpowers capillary action, so you will need to apply more water to the dry soil near the top.

A fig tree that is often overwatered or allowed to sit in water too long will suffer root rot and might not recover. Fungal infections from overwatering cause brown patches in older leaves. Eventually, all the leaves could fall off the tree.

Use water that is warmer than room temperature. In winter, lukewarm water for tropical plants keeps them more comfortable. Here, I keep indoor air temperatures between 60° and 68°F in winter. Water, tested with an aquarium thermometer, should read around 85° to 90° for plants such as figs, pothos, philodendron, Chinese evergreen, basil, alocasia, and African violet.

Water well enough to moisten the entire root ball. Not watering thoroughly results in dry soil lower in the pot, and roots there will die off. Applying small amounts of water a couple of times a week is not a good practice. Water thoroughly; then let the soil dry.

A Hasty Exit

Sometimes, water exits the drainage holes immediately after watering. In this case, the soil mass might have shrunk, which happens when soil has thoroughly dried out. Also, during transportation, the root ball might have shifted in the pot.

A gap has opened up between the inside of the pot and the outside of the root ball. Water finds the path of least resistance, following that air space to the holes at the bottom of the pot. But most of the soil stays dry. Fill the space with potting soil, using a dowel to firm in the new soil. Then the water will more slowly percolate through the root ball.

Humidity

Fig trees, like many tropical plants, benefit from additional humidity when the air is dry. Simply grouping plants together will raise humidity in their vicinity, and all will benefit.

Using large saucers filled with pebbles and water will help raise humidity. The bottom of the pot should always be above the water level in the saucer. This arrangement is easier to maintain for smaller pots. If your home is especially dry, consider using a humidifier.

The positive effects of misting last only as long as there is a film of water on the leaves. And that’s only a few minutes. When water evaporates, a small amount of white mineral residue from the water persists on the leaf. It will build up over time but can be removed by wiping the leaves with a solution of horticultural oil on a soft cloth. Don’t use vegetable oil or mayonnaise. Look for horticultural oil. It’s a good idea to periodically wash the foliage to remove dust and grime.

Keeping foliage damp for long periods of time can initiate bacterial infections. Both young and older leaves can develop brown spots and yellow patches. These infected leaves will fall off.

Don’t place a fiddle-leaf fig where HVAC registers blow cold or hot dry air toward the foliage. Tender new leaves will turn brown on the edges. Louvered registers usually can be closed or use a deflector to change the direction of the air flow.

By the way, it’s normal for the fig tree to drop an older leaf or two now and then. As long as there is a net gain of healthy foliage, it’s probably not a concern.

Temperature

Avoid placing fiddle-leaf figs in cold drafts. These plants, members of the mulberry family (Moraceae), originated in warm, humid areas of western Africa. They appreciate temperatures that are at least 63° to 65° at night and 68° to 70° in the daytime. But keep in mind that the higher the temperature, the lower the relative humidity.

If you keep your house in the mid 70’s in the winter, and are not uncomfortable dropping the temperature a few degrees, the higher relative humidity will benefit both you and your plants.

Fertilization

Plants purchased from garden centers are usually fertilized on a schedule, so ask a salesperson if your plant is due for fertilization. For the fiddle-leaf fig, and for all plants, it’s better to underfertilize than to overfertilize.

Too much fertilizer will burn the roots and could kill the plant. It will not make the plant grow faster! If you accidentally gave the plant too much fertilizer, flush a few to several gallons of clear water through the root system to flush out the excess. Use the fertile drained water in the garden rather than letting it go down the drain.

Use balanced fertilizers formulated for houseplants, such as 12-12-12 or 20-20-20, every 5 or 6 weeks during the growing season, usually March through October in the northern hemisphere. Follow dilution rates indicated on the package. Plants growing in less than ideal conditions, though, should be fertilized less often or at more diluted rates.

If the plant is in poor health, fertilize once at one-third the recommended rate, and try to improve the growing conditions. Wait to see how the plant responds before resuming the regular schedule. Fertilizing a plant that doesn’t need it or one that is frail (from something other than lack of nutrients) will exacerbate any problems it already has.

You won’t have to fertilize as often if you use slow-release (or timed-release) products. They simplify our gardening chores and are a great convenience. The prills are used up faster at warm temperatures and in moist conditions, such as when the plant is placed outdoors in the summer. For example, a timed-release product that says “6 months” on the label might need to be reapplied in 3-4 months at 85°.

Repotting

When the roots are very crowded in the pot, it might be time to repot your plant. Consider doing this task in mid-spring to early summer. This will give your plant enough time to grow a strong root system before winter comes.

Don’t wait until autumn to do this, because shorter daylength and cooler indoor temperatures slow down plant processes. The fig will grow new roots very slowly, if at all, in average indoor conditions. That’s when a plant can suffer root rot. New soil that has no roots growing in it stays wet for a long period of time, which can damage nearby roots.

Choose a nursery (or ordinary plastic) pot that’s only 1-2″ larger in diameter. Score the outside of the root ball in several places with a knife. Or tease out roots from the surface of the root ball. This slight injury to the roots stimulates rapid re-rooting.

Don’t put a small plant into a huge pot thinking this will make it grow faster. It won’t.

All new soil goes below and around the original root ball, never on top of it. Heavily composted potting soil should have coarse sand and pine fines mixed in for better drainage. Firm it in well, filling all gaps between the root ball and the pot. For residential purposes, a large 7′ or 8′ tall plant can stay in a 14″ to 18″ pot indefinitely.

Since nutrition will be provided by fertilizer, there is no need to repot more often than every year or two while the plant is young. Recently repotted plants will not need fertilizer for at least 6 to 8 weeks, or until new soil has filled with roots.

Don’t worry if your fig is getting potbound. It’s easier to manage a fiddle-leaf fig in a somewhat tight pot. And it runs a lower risk of damage from overwatering.

Headings

Page 1: “What’s Wrong With My Fiddle-Leaf Fig?”, Light (Blame It On Hormones), Watering the Fiddle-Leaf Fig (A Hasty Exit), Humidity, Temperature, Fertilization, and Repotting

Page 2: But If You Want a Nicer Pot (Double-Potting), The Finishing Touches, Pruning the Fiddle-Leaf Fig (When To Prune), Outdoor Living (Before Moving Back Indoors), Insects and Mites, and Picture Perfect

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