Tag Archive | how to propagate plants

The Resilience of Plants

Drimiopsis maculata.

It happens to everyone. We’re busy with the kids’ activities, our jobs, or the weather isn’t convenient. Sometimes we just can’t get to all those chores on the list. These cool drizzly days before the gardening season kicks into gear provide the opportunity to tend some of those plants I’ve neglected for months or, admittedly, for years. The fact that they survived attests to the resilience of plants.

It’s rare when any of them actually die; that’s not a good look for someone who’s in her 50th year of professional horticulture! But, after growing these plants for decades, I know how far they can go before reaching the point of no return. Not the best way to garden, but that’s reality for many of us.

This article describes a few examples of the adaptability of plants.

The Resilience of Plants: Confined Spaces

Drimiopsis Maculata

Drimiopsis maculata is one of the leopard lilies native to Africa. This species (photo, above) and 2 other leopard lilies that I grow (Ledebouria socialis and Drimiopsis kirkii) are perennials where winters don’t approach the freezing point. The specific epithet, maculata, refers to the deep green, sometimes purplish, spots on new spring growth. Foliage grows from bulbs on or just below the soil surface. These 3 species are classified in the Asparagaceae family.

They prefer average to cool temperatures indoors from fall to spring, and often shed some of the previous year’s foliage. Leopard lilies tolerate temperatures down into the 40’s F, so they’re spending the winter on the enclosed porch with only the sun, an additional plastic bubble, and miniature incandescent Christmas lights for warmth. Although it might drop below 20° outside the porch, nighttime temperatures won’t get below 45° under the bubble.

I simply don’t have enough direct sunlight inside (or a greenhouse) for hundreds of small plants. Anticipating that Arctic Blast (down to 0°) on December 24, 2022, I moved all the tender plants indoors the night before. Good thing, because the power went out for a few hours at the coldest time of day, around dawn. No power, no lights, no plants! It’s only when outdoor temperatures drop below the low teens that I move the tropicals indoors.

This clump and a few others stayed in 4½” pots for over a decade, since I last potted them up in Maryland. (I moved to North Carolina in 2013 and to this house in 2021.) They grew in only an inch of soil before I divided them in late summer, 2022. Because most of the organic matter had decomposed over that period of time, the level of the soil surface dropped a few inches lower in the pot.

In late winter or spring, the bulbs sprout shortly after repotting (photo, below). Normally, I repot plants in spring to mid-summer, but this species is amenable to transplanting at other times, given good growing conditions.

resilience of plants, drimiopsis after dividing

New growth and flowers on Drimiopsis.

Classification Confusion

The lily family and related families include many species that demonstrate the resilience of plants. These are some of the toughest plants for problem spots in the garden. I also brought from Maryland several hostas (Asparagaceae family) that had stayed in 4½” pots for over a decade. They leafed out nicely every spring, but never attained a good size until after I’d planted them at this rural North Carolina property in the autumn of 2021.

Cousins of drimiopsis that tolerate some neglect include ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.), liriope, grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), agave, and asparagus fern.

The huge lily family (Liliaceae) has undergone adjustments over recent decades. Genera of the original Liliaceae family have been redistributed among 10 families, all of which remain members of the same order, Liliales. The new taxonomy is based on modern studies of molecular biology (genetics) rather than on the number of tepals and the placement of the ovary in the flowers (physical characteristics). Liliaceae hasn’t been entirely disbanded, according to the APG, the Angiosperm Phylogeny Group; fifteen genera are still classified in the Liliaceae family.

Binomial Nomenclature

Swedish botanist, physician, and taxonomist Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778), later Carl von Linné, categorized thousands of plant species in his 2-volume 1753 work, Species Plantarum. Incorporating some of the discoveries of Georg Eberhard Rumphius (German-born botanist) from the 1600’s, Species Plantarum is considered the first attempt at organizing plant species according to a hierarchical system of binomial nomenclature.

Briefly, binomial nomenclature is a system of identifying organisms by assigning them 2 names: a genus and a specific epithet. Together, the 2 terms represent a species. For example, Liriope muscari ‘Royal Purple’ is the scientific or botanical name for a certain variety of the species. Lilyturf is the common name that also can refer to other species of liriope and Ophiopogon. The genus is always capitalized, while the specific epithet almost always begins with a lower-case letter. The species is italicized, but the variety (‘Royal Purple’) is not.

Everywhere around the world, gardeners and scientists use the same Latinized scientific name to identify a particular plant, whereas its common name might refer to several different unrelated species. The genus name is often used as a common name, as in liriope, hosta, and drimiopsis, as long as the reference is clear.

The taxonomical hierarchy after species proceeds to family, order, class, phylum, and kingdom. Genetic similarities and differences determine whether 2 plants are related closely enough to group them in the same genus or separately. The closer 2 species appear on the phylogenetic tree, the more likely they’re able to interbreed.

With modern genetic research, taxonomists have reworked several other plant families, including Lamiaceae (many of the herbs we use daily) and Asteraceae (the composites, perhaps the largest family of plants).

Swiss Chard

Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’.

Here’s a little cutie that sits on the kitchen windowsill, right behind the sink. This Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’ gets several hours of direct sunlight in the morning and early afternoon, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. Chilly nighttime temperatures don’t bother it. It found a temporary home in the nearest empty pot when I thinned it from a cluster of vegetable seedlings. And there it stayed.

What makes this plant special is the fact that I potted it up in March of 2022! And it has been in its 2¼” clay pot all this time! The other seedlings planted last spring grew to their normal 18″ height. This one stands a diminutive 3″ tall.

I’m not keeping it for the purpose of harvesting leaves; there’s not much to pick, after all. It looks perfectly healthy, as long as it gets watered every 1-3 days, depending on temperature. Every 3 weeks, I add a tablespoon of dilute fertilizer, such as Sea-Plus or fish emulsion—just enough to keep it in good color, but no more than that.

I’m curious to see how long this orange-stemmed miniaturized plant will last. Short-season (spinach, lettuce) or fast-growing (tomato) plants would not last long in such tiny quarters. Swiss chard is a foliage plant for close to a year before it flowers, so it has tolerated these conditions. Now and then, a leaf turns yellow and is pinched off, but new foliage continues to grow. (***Update***: still going strong in late June 2023.)

Agave

Another cousin of the lily family and a desert dweller, agave (in the Agavaceae family) is a very forgiving plant. I brought 2 varieties from Maryland. They slowly grew new leaves and strong stems with adventitious roots. Although confined in deteriorating 9-cell market packs for a long, long time (~15 years), they rooted into anything near them that stayed still for a year. In the photo, above, the last of the agaves rooted into a nearby clay pot and unoccupied cells of the (removed) market pack. The resilience of plants once again has been demonstrated by this plant’s will to survive.

I buried most of the long stem into a clay pot with barely damp potting soil and no additional water. I’ll water this one very sparingly until it shows signs of new growth.

Succulents and other plants native to dry, harsh climates are masters of survival. They store water in stems, roots, and swollen leaves protected by a thick, waxy epidermis. Species needing constant moisture would not have endured this neglect.

The Old Orchid

resilience of plants, mini orchid in 3" pot for 45 years

Dendrobium kingianum.

When I lived in Morgantown, West Virginia in the 1970’s, a friend and I drove out to The Glasshouse Works, over the border in Ohio. This nursery carried a dazzling assortment of plant species and varieties.

One of my purchases was a small orchid called Dendrobium kingianum. After returning home, I planted it in a 3″ clay pot. Every few years, I refresh the medium, using pine fines, long-fibered sphagnum moss, perlite, and a bit of potting soil.

It rarely blooms, and I propagate it when rooted plantlets form on the stems. An aerial plantlet is called a keiki, Hawaiian for “the little one”. It has been over 45 years now, and the orchid still resides in that 3″ pot.

Bonsai

Bonsai are the ultimate in meticulous care, incredible beauty, and sometimes astonishing age. Many large botanical gardens have collections that truly are worth visiting. Specimens can be several hundred years old and grow in pots only a couple of inches deep. Or they might be trained on a carefully chosen slab of rock.

Plants trained as bonsai usually are woody perennials, either deciduous or evergreen shrubs and trees. Successful bonsai require very specific care in trimming, root pruning, watering, and fertilizing according to seasonal cycles. Most important is the degree of artistry that contributes to a credible bonsai, one that expresses the appearance of an exquisitely aged specimen.

Bonsai exemplify the resilience of plants, considering the means by which they’re maintained over decades or centuries. Each specimen requires a tailored set of precise horticultural skills to keep it healthy.

(No, that’s not my plant in the photo, but this style of gardening deserves a mention.)

Headings

Page 1: The Resilience of Plants: Confined Spaces (Drimiopsis Maculata, Classification Confusion, Binomial Nomenclature, Swiss Chard, Agave, The Old Orchid, Bonsai)

Page 2: The Resilience of Plants: Opportunity (A Plant In a Strange Place, Young Lavender, Another Surprise Seedling), The Resilience of Plants: Recovery (Cryptanthus, Propagating Bromeliads, The Petunia, Giant Redwoods Define the Resilience of Plants, Wildfires)

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Herb Gardens: How To Grow Herbs In Pots

May11

2021

updated 3/14/2024

Herb Gardens: The Scents and Flavors of Summer

Fresh ‘Genovese’ basil for the garden salad…savory French thyme on grilled fish…chives and flat parsley to enliven the egg salad and browned potatoes. Yummy! This lengthy article describes how you can plant and enjoy growing herb gardens in containers. Growing potted herbs on the balcony or the sunny patio is the perfect solution if you have no garden space.

Potted herb gardens can be moved around to get just the right amount of sunlight the plants need. They can enjoy the morning sun on one side of the deck, and a few additional hours of afternoon sun on the other. As the sun’s arc changes from one season to the next, you can reposition the plants to capture the most light.

Several years ago, a gentleman asked me to pot herbs into a large strawberry jar. He traveled frequently between his residence and a summer home at the beach. Because he was a keen cook, he planned to take this herb garden with him to the next kitchen, wherever it was. So, if not prohibited where you’ll be traveling, consider taking your herb garden with you on your next road trip!

The Gift That Keeps On Giving

Place herb gardens on the picnic table for family and guests to sample as they enjoy the day’s barbecue. And then, in autumn, you can continue the harvest by growing them in sunny windows indoors.

Using herbs to flavor foods might help you kick the salt habit, or at least decrease its consumption. In addition to their wonderful flavors, herbs have high concentrations of beneficial antioxidants, which contribute to our well-being. In decreasing order, oregano, rosemary, parsley, basil, and thyme contain the most antioxidants among the common herbs.

I’ve sold herb gardens as wedding or birthday presents, for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Christmas, and as housewarming gifts. Families purchased herb gardens for retiring parents, who planned to devote more time to gardening. Over decades of selling potted plants, I estimate that about half of these delightful combinations were given as gifts.

Choosing the Right Containers for Herb Gardens

Style and Size

Visit any well-stocked garden center and you’ll see an extensive selection of terra cotta (clay), stoneware, ceramic, wood, and inexpensive plastic pots. Containers are available in all sizes and shapes. Plain or ornate finishes reflect modern, rustic, or classic styles. You’ll also find containers specially fitted for deck railings or for hanging on a wall. Plant a half whiskey barrel with one or more mint varieties, and let them take over…in the pot, that is.

Some ceramics are glazed with materials that should not be used with edible plants. There might be a sticker on the bottom indicating this.

Rabbits are cute, but…

Small clay pots dry out faster than large non-porous pots. Just one day too many in direct sun without water could kill the plants. Lining a clay pot with food-grade plastic and poking a few holes in the bottom will slow the evaporation to a degree. To be sure, your herb gardens—especially small ones—will need daily checking.

Potting herbs in hanging baskets is a great solution if you live where deer and rabbits are waiting for the instant you turn your back. They’re particularly attracted to parsley, cilantro, and dill.

Herbs need excellent drainage, so always choose pots that have holes in the bottom. Other than that requirement, just select the pots that appeal to you. Many gardeners look for a consistent style, favoring pots that harmonize with each other and with the setting.

Window Boxes

Clay pots for herb gardens.

A popular container for herb gardens is the window box. Window boxes come in many styles, from quite simple to highly ornate. They’re available in terra cotta (lower shelf in photo, above), plastic, and lined or unlined wood. Plastic containers often have plugs in the drainage holes; remove them to ensure proper drainage.

You can hang them outside windows in securely anchored frames; lighter weight containers are a safer bet. Or simply place them on a brick wall, along a sidewalk, or at the edge of a sunny patio. Several herbs in clay pots look charming clustered together on a table. Where wind is a concern, use heavier pots, but don’t place them where they could blow off the balcony to the sidewalk and harm someone.

Cracking

Handle clay pots carefully so they won’t crack. Clay pots might tolerate one or a few seasons of freezing weather; eventually most will begin to spall or crack. When clay absorbs water, and the water expands as it freezes, the clay degrades. Denser terra cotta (Italian for “baked earth”) survives more winters than softer clay.

This clay pot (photo, right) spent almost a decade outside, and it cracked this past winter. Until it crumbles, it will serve some purpose in the garden. I usually used Italian clay pots for my plant business and acknowledge that even better-quality pottery has limits.

Switching herbs into frost-resistant pots where winters are cold is one option. Other options include growing them indoors, in a cold frame, or in a conservatory—in other words, where the pots won’t freeze.

Tuscan Style

Years ago, I planted two herb gardens for a customer in Potomac, Maryland. They sat on a low stone wall surrounding a sunny Mediterranean-style garden. The Italian clay window boxes were over 4′ long and weighed more than 50 pounds empty. They were beautiful when finished—all those shades of green, purple, gray, variegated white and yellow—and the fragrances!

Even without flowers, potted herb gardens have their own unmistakable charm. Green algae and that white coating (efflorescence, from mineral salts) building up on clay pots won’t harm the plants but will amplify the rustic factor. And, yes, you can clean it off if you prefer.

Long Toms

Long toms, also called rose pots, are taller than they are wide (top shelf and part of next one, in photo under “Window Boxes”). Variegated lemon thyme or prostrate rosemary cascading over the side are perfect choices.

These pots are available in tiny sizes only 2″ wide, but 4″, 5″, and 6″ pots are more useful. Offer small herb containers as party favors for special occasions or use them to assign seating around the table.

While in Maryland, I potted herbs into 3″ stainless steel long toms for the tables at a popular seafood restaurant. I switched them out every couple of weeks.

I used to purchase clay long toms from a wholesale supplier in Baltimore. They normally came without drainage holes, so I added them, using a reversible drill and a masonry bit. Easy.

Plain Pots

“Azalea” pots are 3/4 as tall as they are wide.

Reusing what you have sitting around the garage is most economical.

Clean out those 12″ hanging baskets that held annuals last year, and repurpose them for herb gardens, with or without the wires. Green plastic pots last longer than white ones, which degrade faster in direct sun.

Empty the tired old soil into the shrub gardens and purchase new potting soil for your project. Some plants, particularly basil, are susceptible to several soil borne diseases. Starting with clean materials, therefore, is critical for their success. Wipe down used pots with a 10% bleach solution, rinse, and air-dry…for basil, at least.

Azalea pots are a bit shorter than they are wide and lend a more anchored look to potted plants. I prefer azalea pots over standard pots (height = width). It’s a personal choice, of course. You can pot them up with one plant or use a larger pot for a few plants.

Topiary

Rosemary and lavender topiary standards (the lollipop shape) look great in clay azalea pots, with some moss growing on the soil surface. Grow them indoors, in full sun, where they’re protected from hard winter freezes. But keeping them outdoors—even in chilly weather—ensures they get enough direct sunlight.

Try training the woody herbs “quasi-bonsai” style, with knobby stems, a few little weeds, and a fallen “log” embedded in the moss. Allowing the clay to mellow with algae and efflorescence, and those pots aren’t so plain after all.

Strawberry Pots

Lemon thyme in a clay strawberry jar.

Planting a strawberry jar is a bit more complicated, so it deserves a post of its own. If your attempts at planting a strawberry pot have been less than successful, refer to this article for solutions.

Pot Color

A fine point often overlooked in container gardening is the color of the pot. In summer, with scorching sun bearing down on a dark pot, that heat transfers to the soil. Consequently, the root system will be sparse on the hot side of the pot. Plants are happier without this stress.

You can alleviate their discomfort by shading the root system in summer with smaller pots of heat tolerant plants, such as dwarf zinnias or vinca. Or use white pots in hot weather to lower the temperature.

In autumn, I plant cool season greens and herbs in black nursery pots. Dark colors absorb more energy from the sun. Warming the soil a moderate amount helps limit the deep freeze in winter. The longer the roots can function, the more foliage I’ll be able to pick.

Curiously, clay pots with moist soil can feel cooler to the touch. This is due to evaporative cooling, where the temperature decreases as water evaporates from the surface. So, even in hot weather, a clay pot won’t feel as hot as most other pots. Your skin performs the same function.

Choosing pot colors might not be an option. Alternatively, plant herbs that dislike heat (such as cilantro) on the cooler north (northern hemisphere) or east side of the pot.

Choosing the Right Plants for Herb Gardens

A Proper Fit

First, decide which herbs you want to grow. Look for smaller varieties of the herbs you use in cooking, choosing young but well-rooted transplants. These will adapt better to containers than full size varieties. Sometimes there’s not much choice; maybe only ‘Italian Large Leaf’ basil is available. Okay, I’d rather have it than no basil at all, so there are 4 options when using large-growing herbs:

use fewer herbs in the herb garden to make room for the big basil
keep the basil in the combination pot, but cut it back more frequently
find a larger pot for the herb garden
grow this large basil by itself

We need to find a balance between plant size and available space relative to what other plants need. You can fit a few plants together, but they suffer when cramming all the herbs you like into too small a container. Plants growing in pots, however, don’t grow as large as those in the ground.

Seeds and Transplants

Seeds can be sown directly in the pots, but thin them once they sprout. Remember that some species are very slow to germinate, and you most likely will have better success with transplants. For new gardeners, I suggest buying young plants for now, and perhaps experimenting with seeds during the summer. But if the herbs you need are available only as seed, go for it.

Garden centers and farmers’ markets offer a wide variety of herbs grown as transplants. Some growers start them from seed, cuttings, or plugs (very young plants) several times a year. In one growing season, you might find dozens of varieties of basil alone! So, shop around for the local herb lady, and request certain plants she might grow for you.

I included a section on Propagating Herbs, which you’ll find on Page 5.

What’s the Difference Between Herbs and Spices?

: Cilantro, the herb.

: Coriander, the spice.

Although we use the two terms interchangeably, there is a difference between them. Herbs are leaves of edible plants, and the focus of this article. Spices comprise all other parts of edible plants—bark, seeds, roots, fruits, and flower parts.

Cilantro leaves and coriander seeds come from the same plant, but those interested in this minor technicality differentiate between the herb and the spice.

Turmeric, ginger, vanilla extract, nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper are spices that we keep in the pantry. Saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, comes from the 3 threadlike female parts in a fall-blooming Crocus sativus flower.

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Headings:

Page 1: The Gift That Keeps On Giving, Choosing the Right Containers for Herb Gardens (Style and Size, Window Boxes, Long Toms, Plain Pots, Pot Color), Choosing the Right Plants for Herb Gardens (A Proper Fit, Seeds and Transplants, What’s the Difference Between Herbs and Spices?)

Page 2: Which Herbs Are Annuals? Biennials? Perennials?

Page 3: Herb Gardens Close To the Kitchen, Combination Pots, Potting Up Herb Gardens, How To Maintain Herb Gardens (Light, Natural Sunlight, Artificial Light)

Page 4: Tips For Watering Herb Gardens (Transpiration, Why Plants Wilt, Testing for Moisture, From Season To Season, Water Temperature), Fertilizing Herb Gardens (Organic or Synthetic?, Macronutrients and Micronutrients, How Often To Fertilize Herbs, When We Don’t Fertilize, The Taste Test), Temperature (As Temperatures Change)

Page 5: Common Pests (Better Options To Eradicate Pests, Bacillus Thuringiensis, Horticultural Oil, Organic Sluggo, Plain Water), Girth Control (It’s Thyme For Drying, Which Herbs Dry Well?), Renovating Herb Gardens (Propagating Herbs)

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Pothos: An Easy Houseplant for Beginners

Mar24

2021

Of Pothos and Pandemics

The Year 2020 was one like no other. The threat of catching Covid-19 or the fear of passing it to others altered our lifestyles as nothing before had ever done.

Restaurants closed, schools closed, parking lots and streets were empty. People lost their jobs, businesses failed, and many tried to remotely fulfill the demands of work while caring for children at home. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control claims that over 500,000 people died, as of this writing, of or with Covid-19 since the pandemic began just over a year ago. Tragically, many of us lost friends or family members.

As vaccinations increase and infection rates decrease, some schools are opening their doors and life is inching back to normal. The pent-up demand for things we denied ourselves will heat up the economy this year—travel, lunches out with friends, shopping at brick and mortar stores…

The Joys of Gardening

Horticultural trade magazines report anywhere from 15 million to 30 million newcomers, last year, to the joys of gardening in the U.S. That’s huge!

Most garden centers got off to a dismal start last spring. But they more than made up for it as online ordering and curbside pick-ups became the new norm. Those where states deemed these companies “essential” were permitted to stay open.

Since we were spending more time at home, many chose to make their living spaces more comfortable. So, they upgraded kitchen counters or replaced drafty windows with a super-energy-saving model. Maybe you painted the family room one of those modern colors you’ve been wanting.

Psychological Well-Being

We also spruced up the landscape and brought home a few houseplants to brighten our indoor spaces. A strong connection between nature and our psychological well-being has been reported for decades. You don’t think so? Take a couple of your houseplants to work, if your desk is bare (of living things). Or buy an easy-going pothos and a pretty pot to put it in and see if your mood lightens.

A School Experiment

In 1999, while in Maryland, I planted a new landscape near the main entrance of a public middle school. No, this was not your run-of-the-mill row of sheared yews and a shade tree. Instead, I planted dwarf evergreens (varieties of cedar, chamaecyparis, and pine), a few ornamental grasses, and other plants in a large garden surrounded by paving. This garden surely would welcome the addition of a bronze timberwolf, the school’s mascot, if it shows up. Boulders and sculpted ground enhanced the impression, embellished with a few drifts of seasonal color. No need to water, as Hurricane Floyd moved in as I was finishing up!

The school’s principal enjoyed it so much that she asked me to plant an area near the teachers’ entrance, in the back of the building.

For the new garden, I dug out the old grass and weeds, and mounded up the improved soil for a gorgeous laceleaf Japanese maple, masses of ground covers and perennials, daffodils, and easy flowering shrubs. This new landscape covered large areas on both sides of the sidewalk leading to the entrance.

A young teacher approached me, and freely expressed his opinion that this project was “a complete waste of money”. I asked him to let me know if he felt the same way after the installation had been completed.

A few weeks later, while I was inspecting the garden, he spotted me and shared a few thoughts. Not only had he changed his mind, but he also started projects in his own garden. He said he wasn’t sure why, but that he “just liked walking through the garden” at the school—gently embraced by something beautiful and soothing. This is why parks and botanical gardens are so inviting.

We might not be able to define the effect, but it certainly leaves an impression. That’s the power of living with nature, and one gold star for Kim!

Four kinds of pothos, clockwise from top left: golden, ‘Marble Queen’, ‘Pearls and Jade’, and satin.

Getting Back To Work

As employees move back to the workplace, I’m willing to bet that some of their new plants will be clocking in as well. Research has shown that we become calmer, and more focused, productive, and cooperative when nature is close to us. An office devoid of living plants feels sterile, unwelcoming, with no place to make a hasty retreat, as the northern cardinals do when they’re disturbed at the bird feeder.

Try starting with an inexpensive plant that every garden center sells. A small pothos (poe’ thoss) costs only a few dollars. It used to be known as Scindapsus aureus, but the botanical name has been changed to Epipremnum aureum.

Several varieties can be found in garden centers or from specialty nurseries. The adaptable golden pothos and white-variegated ‘Marble Queen’ have been around for a long time. Two others with gray-green and white markings, ‘N’Joy’ and ‘Pearls and Jade’, are more recent introductions. ‘Neon’, with brilliant yellow-green leaves, is aptly named. And there’s ‘Harlequin’, with starkly contrasting deep green and crisp white foliage.

Philodendron Silva Container Plant - leoleobobeo / Pixabay

Silver pothos.

Variegation appears as streaks, spots, and margins in colors that contrast with the background.

Among the satin pothos (also called silver pothos) in the species Scindapsus pictus, several varieties sport glittery sliver markings (photo, right). ‘Argyraeus’, ‘Exotica’, and ‘Silver Ann’ have varying amounts of silver in their leaves. This species exhibits “reflective variegation”, where the silvery parts glimmer in the light due to air spaces below the upper layer of the leaf.

Family Traits

Pothos is related to philodendron, peace lily (Spathiphyllum), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Alocasia, Anthurium, dieffenbachia, nephthytis, and many other aroids. Caladium and Colocasia, the elephant ears, are popular outdoor foliage plants for warm summers.

Species in the Araceae family evolved as vines and understory plants in primarily tropical and subtropical latitudes of southeast Asia, the western Pacific islands, Africa, Australia, and the Americas.

Spathe and spadix of peace lily.

All have characteristic spadix flowers. The vining species must climb in order to develop adult foliage. At that stage, the large leaves are often lobed rather than heart-shaped. It’s only then—when plants mature—that pothos can flower. The inflorescence is composed of a spadix, with true flowers, surrounded by a leaf-like bract, called a spathe.

Although pothos rarely flowers indoors, other aroids will bloom if given good care. Their flowers are attractive and might be lightly scented, as in Spathiphyllum and anthurium. For most species, though, we ordinarily snip off the blooms to conserve energy. Flowers of certain members of the arum family, including early blooming skunk cabbage, are thermogenic; they can produce heat to melt snow and attract pollinators.

Aroids are toxic to animals, so exercise caution with children and pets. Calcium oxalate crystals in the cells irritate membranes. In natural habitats, this helps fend off animals.

Caring For Pothos Indoors

While living in Maryland, I kept a ‘Marble Queen’ pothos under a table lamp in a north-facing and fairly dim family room. This white-variegated plant grew in a 6″ pot sitting inside a decorative basket. A 12-watt compact fluorescent bulb, switched on for 4 or 5 hours in the evening, provided enough additional light for the plant to thrive in that spot for many years.

The plant received some indirect light from the windows several feet away. But, during the shortest days of winter, I kept the lamp on longer for this plant. For variegated plants, the more hours of light or the greater the intensity, the more vibrant the variegation.

Pothos is often recommended for areas with low light, but not by me. It often declines when grown in low light because it is more susceptible to problems associated with overwatering. Plants are less photosynthetically active at lower light levels, so they won’t use as much water. Try to give them direct sunlight in the morning or filtered sun for a few hours a day, particularly from fall to spring. Plants that don’t like too much sun in summer love it in the winter, and that helps dry the soil. Increasing your plants’ light levels should result in more robust growth, a stronger root system, thicker stems, and brighter color.

In a room with skylights, large unobstructed windows, and light-colored surfaces, enough indirect light will reflect around the room to keep pothos happy. Aim for at least very bright indirect light for optimal growth and health. A brightly lit office should be fine for pothos.

Leaves Turn Toward the Light

A plant’s leaves naturally turn toward a source of light in a response called phototropism. This occurs when hormones on the shady side of the stem cause those cells to elongate, rotating the leaf or turning the stem toward the light.

Turning the pot every week or so encourages even growth. A thriving plant growing against a wall or on a shelf doesn’t need to be turned, however, if you’re satisfied with its appearance. But a plant that keeps facing its pretty leaves away from you and toward a bright window might need to be turned for a more pleasing presentation.

When Leaves Turn All Green

These leaves are losing the white variegation.

New foliage can turn solid green, either temporarily or permanently losing the variegation, depending on the cause.

Stems with all green leaves grow more vigorously than variegated-leaved stems. The reason is simple. Deep green leaves have more chlorophyll, which steps up the amount of carbohydrate (food) formed during photosynthesis. And that means faster growth.

In a pot of pothos with several rooted stems, the solid green ones will compete more successfully than the slower growing variegated stems. Although a few green stems add contrast, I limit the number allowed to grow.

Loss of Variegation

In the photo above, only a small amount of variegation remains in this stem. If plant cells can no longer reproduce the white parts of the leaf, the rest of the stem will have all-green leaves. In this case, I chose to cut back the stem. The plant gets plenty of light, so that stem was going to stay green. If the stump sprouts solid green leaves, I’ll remove the entire stem down to the root.

Another case where leaves lose variegation is when the plant is growing in low light. The plant will try to make up for reduced photosynthesis from lower light levels by adjusting the amount of chlorophyll produced in the foliage. At some point, the plant will sacrifice older growth in order to feed its younger leaves. Nitrogen and certain other nutrients are mobile and can move to the new leaves at the tip, keeping it alive. Brighter light should improve variegation in new foliage.

Headings

Page 1: Of Pothos and Pandemics (The Joys of Gardening, Psychological Well-Being, A School Experiment), Getting Back To Work, Family Traits, and Caring For Pothos Indoors (Leaves Turn Toward the Light, When Leaves Turn All Green, Loss of Variegation)

Page 2: Watering Pothos (“How can I tell when pothos needs water?”, Let It Wilt, Feel the Weight, When Water Can’t Drain, Water Temperature, Guttation), Potting Up (Why the Soil Surface Drops Lower, Insects and Spider Mites, Time For a Bigger Pot, When To Repot, The Process: How To Repot Pothos), Pruning Pothos (Prune the Stems Short, Pinning Down Long Stems), Propagating Pothos (In Water, In Soil), and Fertilizing Pothos

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Pages: 1 2

Dividing Chives: Easily Done!

Sep16

updated 1/28/2024

Here’s How To Divide and Rejuvenate Chives

Potted chives, about to be divided.

There are few plants that are easier to manage than chives. This herb, in the onion family (Amaryllidaceae), benefits from an occasional division. And as autumn approaches, a rejuvenated plant will reward you with a fresh crop of flavorful leaves until the snow flies.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) is super hardy, growing as a perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. In the colder zones, it behaves as a herbaceous perennial, dying back to the soil after some hard freezes. A few months later, new leaves emerge from dormant bulbs in the ground when the soil begins warming up. Wherever I’ve lived, it has always been the first herb to sprout new foliage in late winter or early spring.

Here in zone 7 North Carolina, pot-grown chives has some usable foliage through most of the winter. If grown in a protected area or next to a south-facing wall (northern hemisphere), it will retain some foliage in cold weather. Potted chives is less winter hardy, by one or two zones, than those grown in the ground because the roots are fully exposed to cold air temperatures.

The term, “chives”, is from the French word cive, which derives from the Latin word for onion, cepa.

Some gardeners use the singular form of the word, “chive”, and others prefer using “chives” for both singular and plural applications. Your choice. Similar to the terms “species” and “impatiens”, I add the “s” at the end.

Why Divide Chives?

After a few years of growth, the small bulbs in the soil become very crowded. One year, the chives will look fine, and the next year it might fail to emerge at all. By dividing the clump every 2-3 years, the younger and more vigorous bulbs will have a chance to grow. Those old bulbs might already have decomposed, so you won’t see them in the soil.

Wet soil exacerbates any problems it might have, so plant it where the drainage is good, in a raised bed, or in a clay pot. In fact, chives can tolerate quite dry soil, and it doesn’t mind being potbound. But for the best growth, keep potted chives damp to lightly moist. It needs full sun—6 hours or more each day—to grow well.

Another reason to divide chives is to provide more plants for the garden, to give away, or to sell at the neighborhood yard sale. Perhaps you’d like to add a division to the strawberry jar you’re filling with herbs. Chives responds very quickly after division.

If onion aphids have weakened your chives early in the season, removing all the foliage is an option. That would be another good time to divide the plant, perhaps waiting until after the blooms fade. I’ve never had a problem with onion aphids after spring.

***Update***: These tiny young onion aphids (photo, below) hitched a ride on the potted chives brought indoors last month. So, I cut back the plant and moved it outside, after feeding a few aphids to the betta. The other chives on the deck already are beginning to show new leaves. 2/5/2021

Onion aphids from chives.

How To Divide Chives

The Pot

This process begins with digging up the clump or unpotting the potted chives. The plant in the photos has been growing in a 6½” clay azalea pot (shorter than wide—about 5″ tall). I will replant the same pot with one of the divisions, after cleaning it. Replanting in a dirty pot will make the next plant more difficult to remove. The new root ball will get stuck on the debris tightly clinging to the walls.

Another issue to consider is the shape of the pot. If the top curves inward, the root ball won’t slip beyond the narrow section, and you’ll have to cut straight or tapering sides to get the root ball out of the pot.

If you want to use Grandma’s ceramic pot, simply grow the chives in a plastic pot, with holes, that fits inside the prettier one. While double-potting lets you use a decorative pot without a drainage hole, remember to empty water collecting in the bottom.

Plastic or frost resistant ceramic pots are fine, but use one that is small to medium in size. A big pot holds a large volume of soil that stays wet in a rainy period or in the cold. The excess moisture could kill your chives unless you’ve added extra drainage material. Chives grows nicely with a few other herbs in a window box.

Cut It Back

Cutting leaves right above soil level.

Cut off all the foliage, down to about 1/2″ from the soil surface. While it might appear extreme, this plant won’t skip a beat. Already, a day after cutting back this plant, it has grown 1/3″ (photo at the end).

Removing the foliage makes the process easier and neater. Also, there’s less stress on the roots because they won’t have to supply water to the foliage. Take the good leaves to the kitchen, and add them to baked potatoes for dinner, or to eggs, a salad, or soup. You’ll have long leaves to snip from rejuvenated plants within a couple of weeks, depending on weather.

Look for leek moth larvae, immature insects that sometimes bore into the hollow leaves or burrow inside and destroy the bulbs. This insect is native to Europe and Asia, but also is found in North America, where it can become invasive.

Divide and Multiply

If you’re removing your chives from the ground, dig a few inches from the base of the clump, and about 8″ deep. Tease off loose soil and put the earthworms back in the garden. Don’t worry about some lost roots; chives’ roots regrow very fast.

: Chives’ root ball.

: Slicing off outer roots.

: Three divisions.

The root ball in a potted plant will become very congested with tightly packed roots, both dead and alive. Use an old serrated knife to slice off the outer edges of the root system. And remove that center part if there are no bulbs there. Compost this tired soil or toss it under the shrubs.

An old clump of chives often grows outward, while the center dies out. Identify the places where natural divisions can be separated. Now divide the plant. Use the knife to make a few or several divisions. I kept 12 to 20 shoots in each division. If you want, you could cut smaller divisions for more plants.

Potting Up

: Clay pot with polyester fiberfill covering drainage hole.

: Firm soil around the roots.

: Finished pot of chives.

Place a wad of polyester fiberfill over the pot’s drainage hole. A small bag can be purchased for a few dollars at hobby shops. Because it’s synthetic, it doesn’t break down and can be reused. The PF prevents soil erosion, leaving all the soil in the pot. Also, sowbugs, earthworms, and other critters will not be able to gain entrance to the soil through the drainage hole. But water will drain freely.

Add some potting soil to the pot and hollow out a depression for the fresh division. The soil line should be about 1/2″ to 1″ below the rim of the pot. Firm the soil around the roots to prevent settling or air channels through the soil. Add more soil if needed. But don’t bury the crown of the plant any deeper than it was growing before the division.

Water the plant and place the pot in the sun. Done! Wasn’t that easy?

Growing Chives Indoors

Light

Chives grows easily in a sunny window, where it gets at least 6 hours of direct sun. Abundant sunshine allows optimal photosynthesis and keeps the plant growing strong. Lack of adequate sun causes thin, weak growth that falls over.

Artificial light can help on cloudy days. Place the plant close to a light source to supplement the natural light it gets, but not so close that it can feel the heat.

Temperature

Even if the windowsill is chilly on winter nights, the plant should thrive there. Chives growing indoors should stay in leaf all season, even though those growing outdoors will go dormant. Cooler winter temperatures (45° to 65°F) indoors keep the plant shorter and in better condition. It will bloom in spring only if it has received enough cold, so don’t expect flowers.

If you must keep chives indoors in the summer, set the pot back several inches from the glass so it doesn’t overheat.

Water

Keep the soil damp. Water thoroughly, and then let it dry a bit. After 10 or 15 minutes, empty excess water that remains in a saucer. Chives can grow in a pot as small as 4″ across and doesn’t mind being potbound for some time. A full plant in a small pot requires water more often.

Fertilizer

Every 6 weeks, from mid-fall through winter, apply a dilute (1/4 to 1/2 strength) solution of fertilizer if the plant continues growing.

From spring through early fall, fertilize every 3 or 4 weeks at about half the strength recommended on the package. Chives just isn’t that fussy. Wait 5 or 6 weeks after dividing before starting to fertilize. Chives planted in the garden might need fertilizer only once or twice during the growing season.

Tips for Harvesting Chives

When cutting the leaves, cut the entire leaf, almost down to the soil. The bulbs will soon generate new growth. If you cut the tips off a bunch of leaves, all the ends of those leaves will turn yellow.

Intercalary meristematic tissues right above the bulbs permit regrowth of the leaf from the ground up.

Chives in flower.

Chives flowers in spring (or early summer in northern zones) after being exposed to several weeks of a cold winter. It’s very pretty in bloom, with pinkish purple flowers on sturdy stalks. It looks like their cousins, the ornamental Alliums, grown from bulbs planted in autumn.

This herb’s flowers produce generous amounts of nectar, attracting beneficial insects. Chives’ flowers are edible. Simply pull some of the little florets off the head and use as a garnish. Young flowers have a milder flavor than those that have been open for a few days.

The stalk, or peduncle, that the flower is attached to is quite tough, and not edible for most purposes. Hold the base of the plant and pull out the entire flower stem.

Chives from Seed

As a monocot, chives produces flower parts in multiples of threes. So, each floret has 6 petals and the seed capsule is 3-lobed.

Different varieties of chives have similar flavor, but some have finer foliage than others. ‘Dolores’ has thin foliage, while ‘Purly’ and ‘Staro’ have wider leaves.

Garlic chives going to seed.

And there’s garlic chives, Allium tuberosum, with a distinct mild garlic flavor. Very nice in salads, but it will spread all over the place if the seedheads are not removed (photo, above). It also spreads underground more vigorously than onion chives.

Garlic chives grows in zones 4 through 9. Its pretty white flowers appear later than onion chives. Enjoy the flowers for a few days but remove them before seeds develop. Most wild animals do not feed on chives.

Garlic chives has leaves that are flattened, while onion chives has leaves that are cylindrical in cross-section.

Growing chives from seed is quite easy. Sow chives about 1/4″ deep in moist potting soil. You can use market packs or individual 3½-4″ pots, with 10 or so seeds sown together. Some growers sow dozens of seeds in one pot for a faster sale.

As soon as the seeds germinate, give them full direct sun for strong plants. They can be planted out after hardening off the seedlings, and they’ll tolerate light frost at a young age.

*** * * * * * * ***

Chives has been used for 5,000 years by civilizations in both the Old World and the New World. The foliage is high in Vitamin C, carotenoids, and manganese. It’s very high in Vitamin K. Because we normally don’t consume chives in large quantities, it’s not considered a major source of nutrients.

Dividing chives is an easy project for a cool end-of-summer day. Clipped fresh chives is very nice on a chilly day with a baked potato, melted cheese, crumbled bacon, topped with barely cooked broccoli…and butter… Enjoy!

Chives, a day after dividing the original plant.

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Lavender Cuttings: Tips for Propagating Lavender

Aug11

2020

Kim’s Tips for Rooting Your Own Lavender Cuttings

Cutting a lavender stem at a node.

How wonderful—the fragrance of lavender wafting through the back yard. You’re pleased beyond measure with these silver-leaved subshrubs in the pollinator garden, and perhaps you’d like more of them. The bees and butterflies are all over them! And the deer never touch them!! Garden centers stock several cultivars of lavender, but they are not inexpensive. Problem solved: “I’ll root my own lavender cuttings!”

The plants have performed well, and the garden is buzzing with activity. Now, you’d like to expand the garden to provide even more sustenance for all the bees and other insects. Admittedly, there is some work involved. Properly preparing the heavy clay soil takes effort and materials, but you know it will be worthwhile.

We need pollinators for farms and orchards, for our own vegetable gardens, and to regenerate natural stands of greenery. They pollinate every third bite of food we eat.

Because it takes several weeks to root cuttings and to grow them on to the proper size for transplanting, time is on your side. So, let’s begin by taking cuttings from the plants in the garden. While they’re rooting, you’ll have plenty of time to get the soil just right for the new plants.

Patent Rights

Because it’s illegal to propagate trademarked plants for resale, I bought the newer lavender cultivars in trays of 60 to 200 tiny rooted plants, called plugs. Labels of branded varieties carry the caution, “Unauthorized propagation prohibited”. Many varieties were not under patent protection, however, so those were the ones I propagated.

Lavender from Seed

Another option is sowing seeds—‘Ellagance Purple’ and ‘Lady’ are two that you might try growing. ‘Munstead’ is a strain that has been around for a long time. Seeds take a few weeks to germinate, so this project is best started in spring. Plants grown from seed (sexual propagation) can vary in certain characteristics, including plant size, foliage color, flower color and size, and time to first bloom.

Plants vegetatively propagated, on the other hand, will have consistently similar characteristics. Cloned plants, from cuttings, have the same genetics as the stock plant, so the rooted cuttings will look identical to the parent.

Prepare the Pots and Soil for Lavender Cuttings

First, assemble 4″ or 4 1/2″ plastic pots. Bigger pots hold a much larger volume of soil and dry too slowly.

Lavender is susceptible to several fungal diseases, so starting with clean materials is essential. At the very least, wash the pots with soap and hot water. Better yet, clean the pots with a bleach solution, let them sit for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

Another option is to use new cell packs, with 4 to 9 cells per pack. Soil in small cells dries faster, so you’ll need to closely monitor these containers.

Don’t use soil left over from last year’s plants; it could be harboring disease spores. Never throw “used” soil into the trash. Instead, add it to the flower gardens or the shrub border, where it will contribute organic matter as it decomposes.

Options for Potting Soil:

Always begin with pasteurized potting soil. Mix this with clean coarse sand or perlite. The medium should drain well, allowing both water and air to percolate through the soil.
Use products formulated for succulents, and add houseplant potting soil to make a gritty medium, but one which will hold some water.
Or, simply, use a fresh bag of pasteurized potting soil, which includes perlite, and be very careful about watering.

Avoid using soil containing a large percentage of peat moss, which is acidic and stays too wet for lavender. This herb, like many others, needs close to a neutral pH.

Incidentally, most potting soils sold in garden centers contain no soil at all, and are sometimes called “soilless potting mixtures”. For our purposes, the term “potting soil” will do.

If the medium is dusty dry, mix in a small amount of water. Avoid breathing in the dust. The soil should be slightly damp. Fill the pots with potting soil, and firm lightly. Leave about 1/2″ to 1″ of space between the soil surface and the pot’s rim.

Making the Cut

Joyce Chen scissors.

When To Cut

Cuttings taken in early to mid summer should root adequately before autumn. These are considered “semi hardwood” cuttings. The stems aren’t fully matured, but they aren’t too tender, either. Tough old woody stems will not root.

Collect lavender cuttings in the morning, when they’re fully plumped with water. Don’t use material from the bottom or from the shady side of the plant. Use healthy foliage, without any spots. Cuttings from plants that have not been overfertilized with nitrogen often root more successfully.

How To Take Lavender Cuttings

With clean sharp scissors, take cuttings from non-blooming, non-budded stems. Lavender cuttings from the tips of the stems, rather than from middle sections, make better propagating material. If your early blooming lavender plants were deadheaded (old flower stems cut back) early in the season, the remaining stems might already have branched out, providing fresh cutting material.

Cuttings, before removing bottom leaves.

Lavender cuttings should be only 2″ to 3 1/2″ long, depending on variety. Large cuttings have greater leaf surface area, and the cuttings are more likely to wither before roots form. When taking cuttings from any plant, consider the number of leaves, light, water, humidity, and time to root. Each variety has its own combination of variables that result in prompt, successful rooting. Long cuttings, low humidity, lack of light, and wet or dry soil will not yield rooted plants.

Make the cut where two leaves join the stem (photo at top). This part of the stem is called the “node”, and the first roots often emerge there.

Now, remove leaves on the bottom inch or so of the stem. Gently peel them off. Otherwise, leaves will rot in the soil, which could rot the stem.

Cuttings, ready for sticking.

Rooting Lavender Cuttings In Water

Coleus cuttings start rooting in water in a few days; lavender requires weeks in soil. When possible, I always root plants in potting soil rather than in water. The roots’ cell structures differ between the two methods, and those growing in water often die when re-adapting to soil.

If you have plenty of cuttings, perhaps rooting some in water will work for you. Cuttings should still be about 3 1/2″ long. Use only an inch of water in a glass, don’t crowd the cuttings, and remove leaves in the water. Place the glass in part sun, and change the water every few days.

Sticking the Lavender Cuttings

After decades of rooting plants under lights for my business, I’ve had the most success with cuttings that were stuck right next to the inside of the pot. Particles of soil touching the wall of the pot tend to permit more air to circulate around the stems. That’s precisely what lavender needs.

The stems aren’t sitting in wet soil, although there is some contact. At night, as the temperature drops, water vapor precipitates on the inside of the pot. And the humid air in that space helps the cuttings root.

Lavender cuttings.

This 4 1/2″ pot accepted 9 cuttings, with 1 in the center. Avoid crowding the cuttings; space them so their leaves don’t touch each other. Lightly water in the cuttings to make better contact between the stems and the soil.

I propagate other herbs, including thyme, rosemary, oregano, sage, and bay laurel, in the same way.

Actinovate

When propagating thousands of herbs and perennials each season, I used an organic biological fungicide called Actinovate. This product, a bacterium called Streptomyces lydicus strain WYEC 108, prevented vulnerable plants from succumbing to most diseases. Water the solution into the soil after sticking or lightly mist the cuttings, occasionally, in the morning. I also used it when germinating seeds.

This fungicide is quite expensive, but it made plant propagation much easier for me. It carries the OMRI label and is safe to use on edibles.

Always exercise caution when using materials for treating plants. Don’t breathe the dust, avoid getting it on your skin (rinse thoroughly), and don’t improperly dispose of leftover product or the container. Read the label.

Rooting Hormone

Rooting hormone powder coats the base of the cutting with a chemical fungicide and plant hormones. While it accelerates the rooting process for many plants, this product carries the Environmental Protection Agency’s Caution rating, as does Actinovate.

I haven’t used it for many years, but, if you’ve had good results using rooting powder, then try it on your lavender cuttings. Always read the label, and never discard leftover powder where it can pollute streams.

Raise the Humidity

Pot of cuttings in open plastic bag.

In order to raise the humidity around the cuttings without causing rot, place the pot of cuttings into a clear plastic bag. Pull up the bag so it surrounds the cuttings, but don’t secure it. Fuzzy-leaved plants, such as lavender, rot (not “root”) easily in high humidity. A closed plastic bag or some other closed system raises the relative humidity to 100%. It also causes the “greenhouse effect”, raising the temperature too high.

So, keep the top of the bag open. Enough humidity will remain around the lavender cuttings. In very dry environments, the bag can be partially closed, but don’t let heat build up. Empty any water that collects at the bottom. If the soil is moist and there’s significant condensation inside the bag, open the top more widely, and let excess moisture dissipate. Wet soil will rot the cuttings.

Light For Lavender Cuttings

Lavender loves to bask in the sunshine. The sooner the cuttings get back to the sun, the sooner they can resume strong growth. But harsh sun will desiccate the unrooted cuttings. This is a race against time.

Indoors

Indoors, place the cuttings where they will get gentle direct sunlight. Sunlight helps cuttings root faster, but strong sun will dry them and overheat the air inside the bag. Bright filtered sun most of the day, as through a sheer curtain, works well. Average indoor temperatures (mid 60’s F to low 70’s) will help them root.

Don’t put the cuttings too close to a window, in the hot sun. Check to make sure excess heat can escape. Lavender cuttings will not root in low light, so it might require a bit of experimentation to find the perfect light level to root the cuttings without desiccating them.

New growth emerging from the tip of the stem indicates a cutting that is beginning to root. Congratulations!

Artificial Light

A 4′ long fixture with 2 daylight LED or fluorescent tubes makes a perfect nursery. Here, the plants never see a cloudy day, and you can keep a close eye on progress.

Place the lavender cuttings close to the tubes, within 2″ or 3″. They should be as close as possible to the lights, but not feel heat from the fixture. Keep the lights on for 14-16 hours each day.

Smaller tubes and grow bulbs emit less light, which might not be enough for lavender. But if that’s what you have, try it. Make sure the cuttings are close to the tubes and that the lights are kept on for perhaps 18 hours each day.

Outdoors

Many of us don’t have indoor space suitable for rooting lavender cuttings. In that case, place the pots outdoors in dappled shade, where the plants will get more bright shade than harsh sun. Don’t expose them to hot afternoon sun. Find a location out of the wind.

In a pinch, take a few cuttings and simply stick them at the edge of a planter, in light shade cast by a plant. I’ve been able to root many kinds of plants this way. Watch out for slugs, by the way, and use organic Sluggo to bait them. Scoop out rooted plants, and pot up for a few additional weeks of growing and getting used to full sun before planting them in the garden.

The cuttings in the photographs go outdoors on the deck in the morning. I take them back inside at noon or in early afternoon. It’s been way too hot and humid outside this summer—mid 90’s F, over 100° heat index for days at a time. When it cools down, they’ll spend more time outdoors.

(***Update***: The pot of cuttings in the photographs has only one survivor. Prolonged heat, frequent downpours, and mischievous chipmunks digging in the soil killed the rest. But that one well-rooted plant looks great, and will stay in its 4″ pot over the winter. 1/1/2021)

Ready for Transplant?

Okay…it’s been about 5 or 6 weeks and most of the cuttings show new leaves growing at the tips of the stems. That’s great!

If you see roots at the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, the cuttings might be ready to divide. Remove the cuttings from the pot by gently tipping the pot upside-down. See if there are enough roots to move them to the next stage. Each cutting should have a few 1″ to 2″ long roots. Handle with care, since the roots detach easily from the stems and dry quickly when exposed to air.

Cuttings Rooted in Pots

Before settling them into their permanent homes, the rooted cuttings in pots will need to grow a more extensive root system. Transplant them individually into their own small pot or into 4-cell market packs. Be sure to maintain the same soil level against the stem; never bury the stems. Use the same kind of soil you used to root them.

If they’re rooted, give them full sun for a few weeks before planting in the garden. Rooted cuttings don’t require high humidity, so remove the plastic bag.

Cuttings Rooted in Cell Packs

If you planted the cuttings in market packs to begin with, simply push up the bottom of a cell to check root growth. Don’t pull the cutting itself. Well-rooted plants can be planted directly into the garden if you monitor them very closely. If needed, cover temporarily with a “caterpillar” tunnel fitted with bird netting. This protection admits air and sunlight, and will prevent damage from digging animals while the lavender becomes established.

If cold weather is approaching, use a clear plastic cover over the tunnel, and vent it in the daytime. This will buffer severe conditions, and could save the plants.

Harden Off the Lavender Cuttings

Harden off the cuttings by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions over a period of a week or so. Place the pots of lavender outdoors, in morning sun for a few days, then in more hours of sun. It’s easy to forget them, when they’re out of sight, so remember to water! Plants receiving abundant sunshine make more food for themselves, through photosynthesis, so their roots will grow faster. By the end of the hardening off process, the plants should be able to tolerate direct sun all day.

Remove flower buds appearing on young cuttings. For now, all energy should be directed toward growing a robust root system.

Any cuttings that haven’t rooted and have foliage that feels limp can be discarded. If they look like this after a month, it’s not likely they will root. Figure out how to improve the growing conditions, and try again.

The Garden is Ready

And so are the plants. Water them first. Then remove the rooted plant from its pot and gently loosen the outer roots if they form a tight root ball.

Plant the little lavenders, maintaining the same soil level next to the stem. Firm the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. For almost all plants, you should be able to see the top of the original root ball after transplanting.

Be sure to space them properly, according to the variety. Some mature at 16″ tall and wide, while others can grow as large as 3′ or 4′ across. Lightly shade the plants if the leaves wilt in moist soil. Sticking a leafy twig in the ground on the sunny side works well enough.

During hot weather, check the soil moisture every day, although you might not have to water every day. Feel the soil a few inches down and next to the root ball. If you detect moisture, don’t water. If it wilts or the soil feels dry, water around the root ball.

When you do water, keep the foliage dry. This helps prevent disease.

To Mulch Or Not To Mulch

If you use mulch in the garden, avoid placing it under the canopy of the plant. Where it rains regularly, mulch can hold too much moisture in the soil, so use only a thin layer or, preferably, none at all right under the plant. Keep mulch off the stems.

Avoid finely shredded hardwood mulches, and choose pine fines or small nuggets instead. They permit better air circulation around the lavender.

Planting lavender on raised ground helps the soil drain faster, and plants display better when elevated above surrounding lawn or paving.

Is Your Lavender Winter Hardy?

Each plant variety has a hardiness zone rating, usually between zone 5 and zone 9 for lavender. If you live at the colder end of that variety’s hardiness zone, the rooted plants might need the protection of a cool greenhouse or a cold frame until next spring. It depends on expected weather patterns—temperature and precipitation—over the next several months for the cultivars you’ve selected.

At this point, in late summer, waiting to propagate lavender until next year might be more feasible, especially for gardeners in colder climates.

Lavender is drought resistant once established in the garden, but often dies when overwatered. Improving soil drainage is especially important for cultivars planted in the colder regions of their hardiness zones. “Winter wet” is a frequent cause of lavender failure.

Plant lavender with other perennials and shrubs that share its preferred growing conditions. Although it isn’t native to the U.S., it is non-invasive.

You might enjoy reading about the history of lavender and its uses through the centuries. This article at The Farm In My Yard includes more detailed information for growing lavender successfully.

Better for the Environment

Traditional property management calls for removing winter shelter and sources of food for insects and animals, so this is how we can begin to compensate, right in our own gardens.

Propagating plants is an economical means of providing new material for your gardens. Planting species that offer sustenance to pollinators is not only ecologically preferable to maintaining lawn grass, but it’s also prettier!

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Daffodil Bulbs: Divide, and Multiply the Flowers

Mar3

How Do Your Daffodils Look This Year?

Daffodils in February at Cane Creek Park, Waxhaw NC.

For years, your daffodil bulbs bloomed to great satisfaction. From late winter to mid-spring, there was never a shortage of cut flowers to bring indoors. And plenty remained in the garden to admire from indoors or for neighbors to enjoy.

But this year, they were so disappointing! Masses of slim green leaves look healthy enough, but there were only a few flowers! Come to think of it, there weren’t many last year, either. They should be in their prime right now.

Clumps of daffodils with all leaves, very few flowers.

Why does this happen? You’ve been using the bulb fertilizer recommended by the garden center, and, heaven knows, they never went dry! They looked great a few years ago. Clearly, there’s a problem with the daffodils.

This is called daffodil “blindness”, or lack of flowers. A number of factors contribute to this condition.

“Should I Remove Them?”

Not yet. Just let them soak up the sun’s energy, undisturbed, for as long as the leaves remain green. Don’t cut, knot, braid, or mulch over the leaves. Keep them exposed to direct sunlight. Remove any seedpods, if you see them, to conserve energy and resources. All energy should be directed toward plumping up the bulbs.

In this article, you’ll find tips for restoring your daffodil gardens back to their spectacular spring show. I’m including information on conditions for growing daffodil bulbs successfully for many years into the future. But it’s too early to dig them up right now. Once the leaves have turned yellow or brown, we can begin to dig, divide, and re-set the bulbs.

Bulbs that have been forced in a pot should be planted into the garden after the foliage yellows. While the leaves are green and photosynthesizing, continue watering and provide sunlight. Lasagna pots, crowded with layers of bulbs, rarely bloom well, if at all, a second time. These bulbs might need a year or two in the garden gathering strength for more blooms in the future.

Hardiness

There are 13 divisions of Narcissus, grouped according to their flower structure. Thanks to the efforts of daffodil hybridizers, consumers can choose from among 32,000 registered daffodil varieties! Also, according to the American Daffodil Society, there are between 40 and 200 daffodil species.

In general, daffodils grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 11, although some prefer the cooler end, and others, the warmer zones. Before purchasing your bulbs, find out which zone you live in and which varieties will grow there.

‘Camelot’ and ‘Flower Record’, for example, are better suited to zones 3 to 7, struggling in a warm zone 7 season and failing south of it. The paperwhites Narcissus tazetta (N. papyraceus) ‘Avalanche’ and ‘Minnow’, on the other hand, do better in the warmer zones 5 or 6 to 9.

For Now, Fertilize the Daffodil Bulbs

Apply a complete bulb fertilizer to your daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs. It should have low levels of nitrogen (N), but more phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) content. Use a low analysis product, such as 5-10-10 (N-P-K). 10-10-10 also is acceptable.

As plants photosynthesize, they make their own food and store it in the bulbs. This nourishes the embryo, which is dormant in summer, and prepares the plant for next year’s growth. The more carbohydrates stored in the bulbs, the more flowers for next spring, as long as other conditions are favorable.

Fertilizer applied as the bulbs begin to emerge from the ground could cause the robust foliage and heavy flower heads to flop over. I normally fertilize the bulbs later, around the time of peak bloom, if they need it. Non-flowering bulbs can benefit from a light fertilizing before dividing the clumps. Because the foliage will stay green for several more weeks, the bulbs will have time to utilize the fertilizer.

A soil test conducted by your local agricultural extension service will indicate whether any nutrients should be added.

Bone Meal

For years, many gardeners have relied on bone meal to fertilize their bulbs. Bone meal contains a small amount of nitrogen (3-4%), more phosphorus (12-14%), no potassium, and some micronutrients (Ca, Fe). Mixed products available for bulbs might include bone meal, but also have additional nutrients to make a complete formulation.

The problem with exclusively using bone meal is that it takes longer than other products to break down and become available to the roots. Furthermore, phosphorus, the primary ingredient, moves very slowly through the soil profile. For that reason, bone meal added to the root zone—before planting the bulbs—might be more useful than applying it to the surface of the ground. Avoid direct contact, though, between the bulbs and the fertilizer. Still, it’s not likely to provide nutrients until months or a full season later, after microbes have begun decomposing it.

Bone meal is a slaughterhouse by-product, after sterilizing and grinding cow bones. Some animals are attracted to the scent, so burying it might prevent it from being consumed.

Because daffodils and other bulbs aren’t very demanding, giving them anything should result in good growth. Soil pH should be somewhere between 6.0 and just below 7.0 for nutrient availability. If a soil test indicates adequate phosphorus, I wouldn’t use bone meal. An excess of P will interfere with the uptake of other nutrients.

Food or Fertilizer?

Notice the distinction between the terms “fertilizer” and “food”. Fertilizer is the product we apply to plants. There are many kinds of fertilizers, including soluble and granular types, and compost. They provide various amounts of nutrients to help plants function at an optimum level.

Food is a product of photosynthesis; plants make their own food inside the foliage. This substance is stored as carbohydrates in bulbs, stems, and roots, depending on the species.

Easy Does It!

Daffodils and other bulbs we plant in our gardens don’t need much in the way of nutrients, so never overfertilize. Perhaps you’ve seen clusters of yellow or white daffodils randomly appearing along roadsides or in the middle of a field. Heirloom varieties of Narcissus bulbs are sometimes the only surviving clues that an old homestead once stood nearby. Daffodil bulbs can live for decades!

***Update***: At the south edge of the woods at the new property, daffodils emerged under snow and after a tangle of growth had been cleared away (photos, above). Once the honeysuckle vines, brambles, and tree saplings had been removed, the daffodils grew thick and healthy, although there were few flowers. The soil there is rich with decomposed leaf litter. After the foliage begins to yellow, I’ll divide and transplant most of the bulbs. 3/20/2022

***Update***: Well, I never got around to dividing these bulbs. Starting in January 2023, abundant flowers grew on stronger plants (photo, above). And the flowers lasted 2 months! I don’t know the variety, but it’s an older one with fragrant double flowers. Because the flowers last such a long time, I’ll transplant several divisions to the garden on the far side of the driveway, visible from my office. 4/13/2023

“Then, why do those old abandoned daffodils look better than mine?”

Over time, year after year, fallen leaves and other organic debris have collected at the soil surface above the daffodil bulbs. Microorganisms decompose this material from spring through fall, while the soil is warmer. Nutrients from decomposition slowly filter down to the roots, and are absorbed as the roots emerge in late summer and autumn.

Those abandoned daffodil bulbs don’t need fertilizer from us, nor do they need a layer of mulch. Mother Nature is looking after them! Sometimes, less is more.

Growing our bulbs leaner could help. Pushing them to “grow better” is one reason for overabundance of foliage and lack of flowers. High nitrogen is particularly problematic. For spring-flowering bulbs in decent garden soil, the application rate recommended on the package of bulb fertilizer can be halved. Unless your garden soil is absolutely wretched, keep the fertilizer levels somewhat low.

If the garden soil is good enough to sustain annuals and perennials, it is more than adequate for daffodil bulbs. With occasional applications of fertilizer to garden plants through the growing season, the bulbs lying dormant in the soil below them will have plenty of nutrients when they begin to root out.

I fertilize lightly, sometimes, in autumn, as the bulbs root into cooling soil, and again when they’re in full leaf in spring. It just depends on how the garden has been managed. In many years, I don’t fertilize at all.

Bulbs planted in gardens under irrigation might be getting too much water, which can rot the bulbs. Daffodils don’t appreciate dry soil, but wet soil will kill the bulbs, and then nothing will sprout.

‘Mount Hood’ daffodils. As they age, they turn ivory white. Soil in the mulched garden was good, so I rarely fertilized them.

“Can I use compost?”

A moderate amount of compost top-dressed on the surface and watered into the soil makes a fine addition. Or scratch the compost into the surface of the ground. Covering the compost preserves the beneficial microbes, which will be destroyed by the sun. Because the bulbs are deeper, they won’t be damaged by light cultivation.

Nutrients in decomposing mulch also contribute to the health of the soil. Soil under slowly decaying shredded hardwood mulch is probably sufficient for daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs. Earthworms consume partially decayed material, enriching it in their own special way. They then distribute the castings (earthworm excrement) throughout the garden soil, and aerate it as well.

Shredded hardwood mulch breaks down faster than pine products, but don’t pile on large amounts. That could cause manganese toxicity and raise the pH too high. It’s a good idea to use shredded hardwood for a few years, and then switch to pine for a few years.

Headings

Page 1: How Do Your Daffodils Look This Year?, “Should I Remove Them?” (Hardiness), and For Now, Fertilize the Bulbs (Bone Meal, Food or Fertilizer?, Easy Does It, “Then, why do those old abandoned daffodils look better than mine?”, “Can I use compost?”)

Page 2: Sunlight For Daffodil Bulbs, Daffodil Bulbs Under the Trees, Soil and Drainage (Soil Preparation, Dig In!), Divide and Multiply Daffodil Bulbs (The Process, “And How Deep Is That?”), Time To Plant Daffodil Bulbs (Planting in Autumn, Planting in Early Summer), Summary

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How To Grow Succulents To Perfection!

May23

Speaking Of Succulents

Earlier today, I gave a presentation on succulents at the annual meeting for the Charlotte (NC) Council of Garden Clubs. We spent a few hours at Southern Gourmet in Matthews, and, with their help, and someone else’s laptop, I was able to get through all the pictures. Thank you, CCGC, for the invitation.

Oscularia deltoides in bloom.

What Is A Succulent?

Succulents, by definition, are plants that store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. They evolved in arid regions (primarily in the Americas, Africa, and Australia), and can endure intense sunlight and prolonged drought and heat. By providing favorable conditions, we can grow colorful succulents in sunny windows. Over the past several years, they have been enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Decades ago, I purchased young bare-root succulents from a California wholesaler for my horticultural business. Unwrapping each little parcel was like waking up on Christmas morning as a child. These were plants I’d never seen before—Titanopsis, Pleiospilos, Graptopetalum, Lapidaria—and were destined for sale at the Westover Flea Market when I lived in nearby Morgantown, West Virginia.

Although there are many species of hardy succulents in the Sedum and Sempervivum genera, this article addresses primarily the tender succulents, which require temperatures above freezing.

Plenty Of Light For Succulents

Haworthia cooperi, succulent with windowtip leaves.

Haworthia cooperi showing leaftip windows. Light refracts inside the leaf, even if the plant is almost buried in desert sand.

Adequate light is one of those conditions that must be met for these plants to show good color and characteristic form. Some succulents, such as Haworthia, Gasteria, Aloe, Epiphyllum, and Christmas cacti, grow well with at least 4 hours of direct sun, and very bright indirect light the rest of the day.

Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and Sedum appreciate even more light, at least 5 or 6 hours.

Cacti (succulents with spines or thorns), living stones, and Sempervivum (Hens and Chicks) need abundant sunshine, at least 6, but preferably 8, hours per day.

Direct sunlight keeps the plants colorful and compact. If the plants receive enough sunlight most of the time, they will tolerate the occasional stretch of cloudy weather without deteriorating.

Artificial light helps during the short days of winter or when the sun refuses to shine. When necessary, I use 2-tube 4′ long shop lights with “daylight” LED or fluorescent tubes. Be sure to place the plants within a few inches of the tubes for at least 16 hours per day.

When Light Is Insufficient

: Outgrowing the rosette. Both photos demonstrate internode stretch.

: Thin stem of Graptopetalum variety.

How do you know when your succulents are not receiving enough light? Plants that grow in the shape of a rosette start growing faster (photo above, left). The center leaves outgrow the outline of the plant, stretching toward the light. And the new part of the stem grows thinner. That happens when winter sunlight is scarce, as in this Graptopetalum pentandrum ‘Superbum’ (photo above, right).

In poor light, strong colors begin to pale, and purple, red, or orange highlights fade. New leaves become thinner. The internodes (stem segments between the nodes, where leaves are attached) on younger parts of the plant will lengthen (photos, above); this appearance is diagnostic for low light levels.

There’s a huge difference between “direct sunlight” and “bright indirect light”. A few hours of indirect light offers very little benefit to succulents; they need the strong sun. And, without adequate light, succulents are more susceptible to damage from overwatering.

More Sun For Cacti

: Bumble bee collecting nectar.

: Grafted cacti.

Cacti also suffer in inadequate sunlight. The spines on new growth grow farther apart.

In upright species, the stem becomes narrower relative to the older part that was growing in good sun. If you see that the top half of a cactus stem is thinner than the bottom half, and the spines are not as closely clustered, the plant is not getting as much sun as it was before. Solution? More sun!

The colorful tops of grafted cacti (photo, above right) lack chlorophyll, and depend on the green stock plant for sustenance. Also, the graft is more sensitive to harsh sun and should be placed in cooler morning sun.

Variability among cacti.

Light And Water

Light and water are inextricably linked in plants. When the sun doesn’t shine, photosynthesis, transpiration, and respiration slow down, and soil moisture sits unused around the root system. Play it safe and water succulents only on sunny mornings and when the forecast calls for sunny weather for the next couple of days.

Under normal conditions, allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. Although the soil feels dry on the surface, there’s usually some moisture in the lower half of the root ball.

Glass container with two open sides.

These plants never need misting. Water that sits on the foliage can initiate rot, so shake it off or use a towel to dry it. Never let succulents sit in a saucer of water.

Although glass terrariums are very popular, I do not recommend succulents for terrariums. Unless the glass container has large openings for heat to escape (photo, above), succulents in direct sun will fry in terrariums! They also rot in high humidity or if there’s the slightest amount of excess water in the soil.

Pots

Succulents and shallow bowls (Pike’s Nurseries, Matthews NC).

Succulents prefer to remain quite potbound, where roots are tightly packed in the pot. Plants in oversized pots are more likely to be damaged by overwatering simply because the greater soil volume holds more water for a longer period of time.

Shallow glazed containers, such as decorative bowls and ceramic bonsai trays, make delightful homes for succulent combinations (photo, below). Include rocks, gravel, and driftwood in these dish gardens to create a natural-looking scene from nature.

Small-growing succulents in a bonsai tray.

Tall glazed pots hold a reservoir of water that probably won’t be used by the plant. More appropriate for succulents, terra cotta (Italian for “baked earth”) pots are porous and help the soil dry faster when water vapor passes through the sides.

Repotting, if needed, should be done early in the growing season so a strong root system can develop before the days begin to shorten in autumn. Growth slows during those months. Always use pots that have drainage holes.

Potting Soil

Fenestraria species showing leaftip windows.

The soil used for succulents should be gritty for quick drainage. If needed, amend regular potting soil with perlite, coarse sand, horticultural grit, pine fines, charcoal, expanded rock, or PermaTill. “Cactus and Succulent” soil is available, although quality varies widely among brands.

When repotting, all new soil goes below and around the sides of the root ball, never on top of it. Planting too low in the soil results in rotten leaves and stems.

In their natural environment, certain succulents, such as Haworthia, Aloe, and Gasteria, have contractile roots. If blowing sand exposes the crown or the top of the root system, the roots are able to “pull” the plant lower into the soil. Amazing!

Living Stones

The ground-hugging living stones, or split-rock, succulents (photos, below) are extremely sensitive to overwatering. Use small clay pots and very gritty, gravelly soil. There should be only a very small percentage of organic matter in the soil.

These plants are well-camouflaged in their native southern Africa, almost indiscernible from the rocks around them. Some of the genera available for purchase include Lithops, Lapidaria, Gibbaeum, and Conophytum.

: Living stones.

: Flowers emerging from between the leaf pairs, left. New leaves “splitting” last year’s foliage, which will wither, right.

Fertilizer

Succulents grow slowly, so fertilize only 2 or 3 times during the growing season, from March through October.

Use products formulated for indoor houseplants, with small numbers on the package, such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Those three numbers represent the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus (phosphate), and potassium (potash) in the product. All products list these three primary macronutrients on the label in that order: N-P-K.

It’s better to underfertilize than to overfertilize, so use a more diluted rate than the recommendation on the label. For succulents, dilute it to half-strength.

Lithops and other living stones are extremely slow-growing, so they’re hardly ever fertilized. Use a very dilute higher phosphorus fertilizer only when the plant shows new growth.

Sempervivum (hens and chicks) can be tucked between rocks, and they’re hardy perennials.

Outdoors For The Summer

Light blue Echeveria in bloom.

Succulents summering outdoors benefit from higher light levels and often take on vibrant coloration. Jade plants (Crassula) develop red margins on their leaves in brighter sun, and Echeveria becomes even more colorful.

Monitor closely during periods of high heat. Above 85° F, provide light shade during the hot afternoon hours. Potted plants are more susceptible to stress from extreme conditions than those planted in the ground.

Transition your plants to outdoor conditions gradually. Give them just a couple of hours of early morning sun or dappled shade for the first few days. A plant that was growing indoors all winter will probably suffer sun scald if immediately placed outdoors in full sun. This hardening off process gives plant tissues time to toughen up so they can withstand more intense summer sun. Sunlight causes the cuticle, a protective waxy layer on the leaf surface, to thicken.

This beautiful variegated succulent, called Kalanchoe ‘Fantastic’, has a variably feathered band of cream between the pink edge and the greenish-gray base of the leaf (photo, below). I’ve had this plant for over a decade, and protect it from dropping temperatures in autumn by moving it indoors well before frost. Stronger sun and more stressful conditions might cause it to turn redder in color. It recovers, though, in less extreme conditions.

kalanchoe thyrsiflora, a succulent called "flap jack"

Kalanchoe thyrsiflora ‘Fantastic’, growing outdoors for the summer.

Protect your plants from excessive moisture. After receiving some rain, place the dampened succulents under cover. Check to make sure the drainage hole allows water to drain freely.

And Back Inside In Autumn

As autumn temperatures fall into the high 40’s at night, it’s time to bring your plants indoors for the winter. The more sensitive types, including Echeveria and Graptopetalum, come indoors before the thermometer drops below 55°. Prolonged exposure to cold, wet conditions will cause succulents to deteriorate, so check the forecast!

Pruning Succulents

Joyce Chen scissors.

If your plants are growing too large and cannot be accommodated in the space available, consider cutting them back. Stretched-out plants benefit from selective pruning in early summer. New growth will soon emerge.

Cacti can be temperamental, so be careful if you choose to lop off the tops. For cacti, this is best done in late spring/early summer for a full season of recuperation. Stronger light available in the summer causes the plant to respond with more compact growth. They might grow a few new stems below the cut.

During transpiration, water is “pulled” through the plant’s vascular system from the roots, to the stems, and then through the leaves and out to the atmosphere. This process is the primary manner in which moisture is removed from the soil. Therefore, avoid extensive pruning if any plant was recently watered. Because there’s less foliage on the plant after pruning, the soil stays moist for a longer period of time. Wait a few days, or until the soil is almost dry, before pruning.

Headings

Page 1: Speaking Of Succulents, What Is A Succulent?, Plenty Of Light For Succulents (When Light Is Insufficient), More Sun For Cacti, Light And Water, Pots, Potting Soil (Living Stones), Fertilizer, Outdoors For The Summer (And Back Inside In Autumn), Pruning Succulents

Page 2: Propagation Of Succulents (Rooting Cuttings, Stem Cuttings, Leaf Cuttings, Division, Seed), Root Rot And Insects (Root Or Stem Rot, Insects and Mites), Flowers, Time To Grow That Collection!

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