Something special is happening in the yard, and you reach for the camera only to find there’s no remaining memory. So, you quickly delete a few old photos, rush back to the window…and sadly discover the moment has passed.
Has that ever happened to you? I use a digital camera because I’m old-school, you might say, and haven’t yet activated the cell phone. Mea culpa.
But I learned my lesson the last time I tried to catch a fleeting moment. So, I regularly go through the camera’s photos and delete most that already have been stored on the computer. When one of those special moments happens, I’m prepared! (Oh, you thought I was going to say that I had finally activated the cell phone? Some day.)
Two days after a low-ranking tornado and hailstorm blew through Elkin on 4/28/2023, a couple of strange birds showed up at the feeders. They looked like a cross between a cardinal and a towhee. Bold beak, about the same size (8″ long), black with sharply contrasting white patches on the wings, and a bright red bib. Never saw them before.
70+ mph winds gusting to ?? blew this canopy with 200 lbs. of cinderblocks, some still attached, 40′ from its original location.
A Delightful Visit
The triangular red patch is diagnostic for a mature male of this species. It’s the rose-breasted grosbeak (French gros = large), or Pheucticus ludovicianus. No surprise, rose-breasted grosbeaks are related to cardinals in the family Cardinalidae, and also to buntings.
The female is less colorful, resembling a female purple finch but 2″ larger. Her eyebrow stripe (supercilium) is white, her plumage is predominantly rich brown with white bars, and she has a spotted buff-colored chest. Male grosbeaks have a white bill, while the female’s is dull pink.
Two colorful males visited the feeders, apparently unaccompanied by females. Their song resembles that of a robin and the callnote is a sharp pink.
Aiming through the kitchen window, I took a few pictures of these beautiful birds. They hopped from one feeder to the other and to the ground, and sometimes flew into the high branches of a tall oak tree near the edge of the woods. After 15 minutes, they left.
I wonder if the high winds from the storm might have pushed them off course. Regardless, their presence in my garden provided one of the most delightful surprises this bird watcher has ever seen.
Where Rose-Breasted Grosbeaks Live
Their paths of migration in spring and autumn take them through the southeast quadrant of the U.S. Migration routes extend west from Montana to central Texas. After overwintering in Mexico, the Caribbean islands, and northwestern South America, they fly north through this part of North Carolina around early May.
These grosbeaks settle in their summer breeding grounds around deciduous forest edges and suburbs. Their summer range includes the Mid-Atlantic region and New England, west to the Dakotas and as far south as southern Missouri. They also travel farther north to the area around the Great Lakes, along the U.S./Canada border, and into central Canada.
According to the maps, rose-breasted grosbeaks might breed as far as Wilkes County in NC, where I live. The birds are more commonly spotted during the breeding season, however, farther north and in the higher elevations of a narrow strip of habitation extending through the Appalachian Mountains as far south as northern Georgia.
These birds often visit feeding stations as they migrate and throughout the year. Sunflower and safflower seeds, raw peanuts, and clean water might attract them to your garden. They also eat insects, so not spraying pesticides—but letting nature “happen”—might give you that photo op you’ve been hoping for.
Feeding and Breeding Habits of the Rose-Breasted Grosbeak
Rose-breasted grosbeaks feed on a wide assortment of insects and plant parts. In one study of dead birds, their stomach contents comprised 52% invertebrates (mostly beetles, also caterpillars, grubs, sawflies, bees, moths, ants, snails, and spiders), 20% wild fruits, 16% weed seeds, 6% cultivated plants, and 6% tree buds and flowers. They can catch insects in flight and occasionally sample nectar. For their young, these grosbeaks provide mostly protein-rich insects.
Both male and female rose-breasted grosbeaks select the nest site, usually located in an elevated position in tree crotches or tall shrubs. They prefer nesting and feeding near openings in a woodland.
The nest is a rather flimsy collection of twigs, leaves, roots, and animal hair. These birds lay between 1 and 5 eggs, with 3-4 being the average. Eggs are pale bluish green with reddish brown spots. Although the female does most of the nest-building and incubation, the male does participate and also helps feed the chicks. Chicks hatch after 11-14 days, fledge after 9-13 days, and gain their independence at 3 weeks of age. They have 1, sometimes 2, broods in a season.
Rose-breasted grosbeaks live an average of about 7 years in the wild. In captivity, they’ve been documented to live as long as 24 years.
They don’t winter in the piedmont of North Carolina but will again pass through the area in autumn on their way to southern lowlands and foothills. I hope to catch them on their return route to their winter grounds—with better camera shots, of course.
Two male rose-breasted grosbeaks searching for sunflower seeds.
In this article, I’ll describe how new garden spaces and “Patches for Pollinators” have decreased mowing time, while providing nectar and pollen for pollinators and seeds for songbirds. Also included is information about several insects found in the gardens this summer.
A common theme running through The Farm In My Yard is my goal of replacing much of the lawn with layered gardens, including trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs, and annuals. Flowers and more natural surroundings attract bees and butterflies, toads and birds.
All the rest of the animal kingdom are showing up as well. Mice, moles, and voles…snakes and rabbits…foxes and deer. Lots of praying mantises, five-lined skinks, ladybugs, fireflies, and many insects I’ve never seen before. Occasionally, a cat sits patiently under the bird feeder until he’s shooed off. And some pests, too, such as…
…Japanese Beetles
Lettuce-leaf basil ‘Tuscany’, with Japanese beetles.
Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica), accidentally imported into the U.S., were first spotted in New Jersey in 1916. They’re present here (northern NC) in enormous numbers this year and demonstrate a particular fondness for my lettuce-leaf basil, marigolds, blueberries, and raspberries. But they will feed on hundreds of species, including linden, cherry, plum, birch, rose, grape, and hollyhock.
To prevent “skeletonized” foliage on farmers’-market-bound basil, I cover the plants with an old sheer curtain to exclude the beetles. Future plans include growing berries and other susceptible plants under insect screening, with allowances made for bumble bees to pollinate the flowers.
Although a few birds eat them, the damage these beetles do to the landscape and to my inventory far outweighs their benefit.
Japanese Beetle Life Cycle
With regular rainstorms, soil stays softer, allowing female beetles to repeatedly lay eggs deeper into the soil in July and August. There, the eggs and young grubs are not stressed by hot, dry soil. White C-shaped grubs feed voraciously on healthy roots (particularly those of lawn grasses), and, in autumn, descend deeper into the ground, protected from severe cold.
In spring, grubs rise closer to the surface to continue feeding. In late spring, well-fed larvae pupate in the ground, and adult beetles emerge in early summer. Moist soil—from rain or irrigation—contributes to this beetle’s success. Where the ground is soft and moist in summer and fall, you can count on large populations of Japanese beetles the following year.
Incidentally, chewed plant tissues emit certain scents which attract even more beetles. That’s why we find them congregating in large numbers in the tops of blueberry bushes or in rose flowers.
Applying Milky Spore powder, a bacterium, to the property (grass and gardens) in early autumn kills grubs feeding on roots. This remedy isn’t 100% effective because beetles fly in from quite a distance—miles, in fact. At the very least, there will be fewer grubs devouring roots in your landscape. If you can encourage the entire neighborhood to apply Milky Spore, everyone will benefit. Except Japanese beetles. Moles, by the way, feed on these grubs. Plenty of those around, as well.
Other than that, I’m not fertilizing the lawn, applying any chemicals, or reseeding. In the future, I might work on a limited amount of presentable lawn close to the house. But for now, since the lawn comprises about 75% weeds and undesirable grasses, I’m just cutting it. Besides, much of that ground will be turned over, amended, and planted with something other than grass.
Less Grass To Mow With Patches For Pollinators
New Gardens
When I bought the house in late 2021, the lawn covered about half the property, taking 5½-6 hours to cut with a walk-behind self-propelled mulching mower. Part of the lawn’s square footage has been taken up by the many plants installed last fall and winter. They’re the beginnings of new gardens, which will expand as I propagate perennials, seed the annuals, and plant drifts of new shrubs. Space taken up by low-maintenance gardens will decrease the time required to cut grass.
Foxglove.
Several white oaks (Quercus alba) tower over the property, providing a high canopy for proposed shady gardens underneath. About 200 tiny foxgloves just began germinating from seeds sown in a pot. Some will be sold at the market, and many will be planted in morning sun or under the trees’ dappled shade.
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) is toxic to most warm-blooded animals, including rabbits and deer. (It is a source of pharmaceuticals, but only under a doctor’s care.) The greatest risk to these plants is from dead twigs falling from the old oak trees.
Foxglove is a biennial, and, if happy, drops seeds at the end of its growth cycle for a self-sustaining colony of plants with stately flower spikes, from cream and pink, and rose to purple. It blooms in spring to early summer, then sheds seeds and dies. After those tiny seeds germinate in summer, young plants will remain dormant in winter. They’ll bloom the following spring, thus repeating the cycle. Insects and hummingbirds gain sustenance from the flowers.
From Crape Myrtle To Virginia Sweetspire
‘Red Russian’ kale, komatsuna, and tiny itea, foreground, plus kales, collards, cosmos, and crape myrtle, toward the back, after planting and mulching.
Growing plants from seed is one way to economically fill a large garden bed. I started a new garden last fall, close to the street, where I planted a pink crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) and 2 tiny Virginia sweetspires (Itea virginica ‘Henry’s Garnet’) brought from Charlotte.
Early this year, I turned over the ground to a depth of 10″ between the shrubs and beyond, and added leaf mold and black topsoil from the woods. Also incorporated into the soil was a generous portion of chopped oak leaves stored in trash bags since the previous autumn.
All this loosening of the soil and the additional materials created a raised bed about 22′ long and 6-8′ wide. It’s an irregular shape with a curved outline. And, naturally, it will be enlarged over the years.
Purslane and ‘Red Russian’ kale.
This garden is where I’d planned to have a mass of large light pink cosmos. So, I grew ‘Cupcakes Blush’ from seed and planted about 40 of them in 2 groups. Between them, I added dozens of blue-gray ‘Lacinato’ kale, the similar but more purple ‘Dazzling Blue’ dinosaur kale, and the frilly ‘Red Russian’ kale. Behind the crape myrtle, I planted 10 collards, with rounded light grayish-green leaves. On the end, near the itea, I added a few clumps of komatsuna ‘Green Giant’, with broadly rounded dark green leaves. These plants complement each other in both color and form, and all the greens (kale, collards, komatsuna) are edible.
I picked up a purslane at a local roadside stand. It had solid deep pink flowers on a low, spreading plant. But the heat, apparently, turned the new flowers pink and white striped. So, I stuck that into the “pink garden”, and put a few cuttings near it, which are now growing.
Not In the Pink
I won’t grow ‘Cupcakes Blush’ cosmos again because it took too long to grow and fill out. It didn’t have the number of flowers hyped in the catalog, and fewer than half were light pink!
The fast-growing greens are winners in both vegetable and flower gardens. They’ll look even better when paired with blooming violas in fall and winter. The fact that they survived at all during this overheated summer is a marvel. Adding ‘Scarlet Frills’ mustard greens (edible) will echo the burgundy fall color of the iteas and crape myrtle.
Marigolds.
***Update***: Close to 2½-3 months of frost-free weather is just too long to put up with plants that aren’t delivering. So, all the “pink” cosmos were taken out in early August, and replaced with dwarf marigolds (photo, above), dwarf ‘Cosmic Orange’ cosmos, and coppery-leaved coleus. Much better. But the pink purslane will have to move. The crape myrtle bloomed very lightly this first season in the garden. 8/6/2022
Vegetable Gardens
This property includes a sizable fenced garden, partially shaded by the oaks on the east side of the house. As the sun’s arc shifts through the year, the garden receives more or less sun than it did the previous month.
Last autumn, I stuffed oak leaves into large trash bags, and stored them next to the foundation over the winter. In early February, I incorporated a few of those bags of leaves into the top 12″ of this garden’s soil, along with aged cow manure. After planting the greens, a thick layer of oak leaves was applied as a mulch, keeping soil moist, cooler, and weed-free. By late spring, the greatly improved soil was well-populated by earthworms, and the organic matter will continue to break down for months to come.
I’ll dig and amend more of this garden and add cool season greens, such as spinach, Swiss chard, green onions, and leeks. And peas, of course—the edible-podded ‘Sugar Snap’ and a variety of snow pea called ‘Oregon Giant’. It’ll receive more hours of sun after the trees defoliate. The brassicas (arugula, broccoli, miniature broccoli ‘Happy Rich’, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard greens, pac choi, and others), or cruciferous crops, figure prominently in autumn and winter gardens and in the kitchen.
Hostas brought from Maryland a decade ago grow plump in the composted soil on the shadiest end of the garden. I’ll add more varieties of hostas here, safe from deer, until it’s time to pot them up for the market.
Brassicas (plants in the Brassicaceae family) appreciate moist, well-composted soil, generous portions of aged cow manure, and neutral pH. Here in USDA zone 7, many types of greens can grow in cold weather, even through the winter. I plant several kinds of brassicas every fall. During severely cold periods, a loose covering of clear plastic keeps the foliage in good condition.
Late last winter and in spring, I set out about 30 plants of miniature broccoli ‘Happy Rich’ on the north end of the garden, farthest from the oaks. While the trees were leafless, the plants grew in full sun. Now, in summer, these brassicas enjoy a couple of hours of mid-day shade from the hot sun.
This is one of my all-time favorite vegetables. Maybe even the favorite. I eat this versatile broccoli a few times a week, sell some at the Elkin Farmers’ Market, and donate a bunch when the market hosts cooking demonstrations. Great sweet flavor, and super healthy!
(***Update***: These same plants produced small harvests into mid-November. Then, with cooler weather, leaves grew larger. Unusually cold fall weather—up to 20 degrees colder than average—has caused them to decline earlier than expected. However, after the oaks dropped their leaves, the broccoli grew more vigorously, almost until Christmas, 2022. That’s why ‘Happy Rich’ is my favorite vegetable—9 months of harvests!)
‘Happy Rich’ and Insects
Harlequin bugs on cabbage.
‘Happy Rich’ branches out after each cut, producing more stems, leaves, and small heads to harvest. Four species of caterpillars (from 3 species of moths and 1 butterfly) prove quite troublesome all season long, even beyond the first frosts. To prevent them from ruining the brassicas, I spray every 7-10 days with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). This isn’t a chemical, but a naturally occurring bacterium that kills larvae of moths and butterflies.
Bright orange and black harlequin bugs (photo, above) also feed on brassicas, spotting and distorting the heads and leaves. I squish them when I see them.
Broccoli ‘Arcadia’ and a bumble bee in spring.
As the plants finish up their last harvests now and in spring, some of the stems will bloom. Beneficial insects, especially bumble bees, honey bees, sweat bees, and tiny braconid wasps, collect nectar and pollen from the flowers. Heading broccoli has yellow flowers, but ‘Happy Rich’ has pure white flowers on stems up to 5′ tall.
Tomatoes
After warm weather had settled into the area, I planted several tomatoes and peppers among the mini broccoli plants.
A small garden for cherry tomatoes.
Another section, north of the garden, gets sunlight longer into the season. There, I secured posts and strung deer netting between them (photo, above). It’s a narrow space, so deer won’t jump into it. This small area has a few cherry tomatoes, which can lean against the stronger existing fence, where edible-podded peas grew from late winter to early summer. You can see the pea vines growing through the fence.
Tobacco Hornworms
Tomato plant denuded by tobacco hornworm.
If one of your tomato plants seems a lot less leafy than it did yesterday, it might have a tobacco hornworm (slash markings) or a tomato hornworm (V-shaped markings). This very hungry caterpillar is the larval stage of a hawkmoth. A few weeks after a ‘German Johnson’ tomato went into the garden, it suddenly lost all its foliage. I’ve seen this before and knew to search for a 4″-long green caterpillar.
Several hornworms were found munching on the tomatoes this season. Most were carrying the pupae of a parasitic wasp and had stopped feeding. These pupae look like small grains of white rice. A female wasp lays eggs on or in the caterpillar. The eggs hatch into tiny larvae, which eat the inner tissues of the caterpillar, weakening or killing their host. Those should be left alone.
The few that hadn’t been parasitized lived out their lives on old tomato plants tossed behind the gardens. Birds or other animals might eat them.
Two dozen tomato plants that weren’t good enough to sell found homes in a few other areas around the property. Most are surrounded by posts and deer netting, although the deer did find—and destroy—90% of the big sunflowers meant for the winter songbirds… …
Tobacco hornworm.
Hornworm with wasp pupae.
***Tomato Update***:
(This section added 9/4/2022.)
Tomatoes generally are underproducing. Those getting just an hour more sun are yielding fairly well, but not abundantly. Gardeners in this region experienced devastating blights on tomatoes from frequent rainstorms and persistent humidity.
After planting cleaned up not-quite-dead tomato plants, I sprayed them with a solution of dissolved aspirin. Here’s another link. They recovered better than I had any hope of expecting. Although not receiving the recommended biweekly spraying, they’re still producing fruits.
Later in the season, tomatoes had sun scald due to the sparse foliage, so I shaded new fruits with mesh bags, old peat pots, or large cucumber leaves. Sun scald causes tomatoes to rot.
Tomato shaded by old peat pot.
Headings
Page 1: Patches For Pollinators (Japanese Beetles, Japanese Beetle Life Cycle), Less Grass To Mow With Patches For Pollinators (New Gardens, From Crape Myrtle To Virginia Sweetspire, Not In the Pink, Vegetable Gardens, Miniature Broccoli ‘Happy Rich’, ‘Happy Rich’ and Insects, Tomatoes, Tobacco Hornworms, Tomato Update)
Page 2: Long Vines That Might Smother the Grass (Next To the Tree Stumps), Patches For Pollinators: Don’t Mow Here (Weeds To Watch, Early Patches For Pollinators, Late Spring and Summer Patches For Pollinators, Patches For Pollinators: Living Proof, The Saddleback Caterpillar), The Pretty Moths and Butterflies
Busy spring! This lengthy article focuses on starting and caring for seedlings and getting them established in the garden. If I’m not working on the seedlings, I’m working in the gardens, creating new beds and expanding those started last fall and winter. Winter weather was delightfully mild to allow planting right through the cold season. The weeds and I have come to an understanding, and in the next article, I’ll tell you how in “Patches for Pollinators”.
Foremost on the agenda has been starting plants to sell at our local Elkin Farmers’ Market. It’s been a challenge this year, keeping plants in good condition with high heat, heavy humidity, and frequent rainstorms. If I had a climate-controlled greenhouse, there might have been fewer losses. But, for the most part, my company, Wellspring Gardens, is producing more seedlings than I can sell at the market.
Some of that overproduction is destined for the vegetable gardens. It will yield small harvests of produce to sell at the market in addition to what’s needed in the kitchen. This is new territory for me, adding produce to the plants offered at the farmers’ market.
I might even consider canning, which I’ve never done…but let’s not get ahead of ourselves. That would be helpful, though, considering the rapidly rising prices at the grocery store. For that reason alone—the impact of rampant inflation on our wallets—it’s wise to learn how to grow at least a few vegetables.
The sun’s path across the sky, Charlotte NC.
Watching how the sun tracks across the sky from month to month reveals good spots for the sun worshipers and areas where leafy greens should thrive in partial sun. This is my first summer in this house. The massive oak trees create shifting shade patterns that cause me to periodically rethink the plans.
So, let’s begin!
12 Tips For Starting Seeds
1. Start with clean materials for seedlings.
Sweet pepper ‘Glow’, started in 9-cell packs.
This calls for packaged seedling mix or fine-grained potting soil. Don’t use “dirt” from the garden, with its pathogens, insects, weed seeds, and worms that disrupt soil structure around tiny roots. In addition to the unknowns lurking in garden soil, its high clay content causes drainage issues in containers.
Soil used previously for potted plants is not a good medium for your seedlings. It’s often depleted of nutrients, might contain pathogens, and the organic matter has partially decomposed. If it’s only one season old, it’s probably safe for potted annuals, when mixed with fresh potting soil, or incorporated into the backfill for that new sourwood tree. Or simply throw it under the shrubs or into the compost pile.
Because seedlings are susceptible to soil-borne diseases, play it safe and start with pasteurized bagged seedling mix or potting soil. This, however, doesn’t guarantee a successful outcome, as many disease spores are air-borne. But we can increase the odds of success by using clean materials.
When reusing cell packs, pots, and flats for seeding, wash them in a 10% bleach solution, and rinse well before proceeding. Don’t smoke around plants, and wash hands thoroughly before working with them. Tobacco and other plants in the nightshade family (Solanaceae, including tomato, pepper, eggplant, and potato) can fall prey to the same disease organisms. Spores can transfer from tobacco products to your hands to the plants.
Pasteurizing Potting Soil
For bagged soil that’s questionable, you can pasteurize it in the oven. Don’t heat soil that contains timed release fertilizers. Use an oven-safe covered pot or baking dish, wet the soil, and heat the oven to 200°F. When the soil registers 140° on a meat thermometer, lower the oven temperature and maintain soil at that temperature for 30 minutes. This kills most pathogens. Wait for it to dry somewhat and to cool thoroughly before using. Various websites recommend different temperature levels from 140° to 300°. At the high end, beneficial microbes are killed off as well.
Let it cool down outdoors. Considering the pervasive “earthy” odor coming from hot soil, you might prefer buying a new bag of seedling mix or accept a small risk with the open bag in the garage.
Another method of pasteurizing (not sterilizing) soil is to place a heat-resistant container of soil in a black plastic bag. Place the bag in a sunny place outdoors on a warm day, and let the sun do the work for you. This is called solarization, and can raise the temperature inside the bag to 140-160°F. To prevent damage to the beneficial microbes, take the temperature, and maintain it at 140° for 30 minutes, opening the bag a bit to prevent overheating.
Most bagged potting soils and seedling mixes already have been heat-treated to eliminate pests. Close the bag securely and store in a cool dark place. The last and only time I pasteurized soil was nearly 50 years ago because that’s what the experts recommended.
2. Grow disease resistant varieties…
While fungicide and bactericide formulations—both organic and conventional—are available, I’d rather grow disease resistant varieties and not rely on spraying. Keep in mind that resistance is not 100% effective, particularly when plants are exposed to stressful weather or cultural conditions.
Certain varieties are more flavorful than others, but all well-grown fruits and vegetables from your own garden taste better than those purchased from grocery stores. Picked when vine-ripened perfect, anything coming from the garden will be superior to what’s found elsewhere except, perhaps, at farmers’ markets and farm stands. Freshly picked produce also has the highest nutrient content.
Digging in the garden is great exercise; proceed slowly at first. Working outside in nature feels good, and self-sufficiency is never amiss. A few steps from the back door gathering a green onion, spinach, dinosaur kale, and a little ripe sweet pepper for the veggie omelet is more rewarding than I can describe. You’ll see!
Those are just a few of the many benefits of growing our own vegetables. Using disease resistant varieties, if available, makes the job so much easier. Many new gardeners gave up after having suffered the disappointment of losing an entire crop to early blight or bacterial leaf spot. And we also have to deal with deer, rabbits, and insects!
Although this article concentrates primarily on edibles, flowering plants also have their own set of disease organisms. Again, look for resistant varieties, grow them in conditions that don’t favor infection, and look for remedies at the garden center.
…Especially Tomato Seedlings
Disease beginning on ‘Rutgers’ tomato.
Tomatoes and peppers, two of the most popular crops for home vegetable gardens, are vulnerable to many diseases. They’re caused by fungal, bacterial, or viral pathogens. In some areas, nematodes also can be a problem. Usually, we can harvest some fruits before disease claims them, but resistant plants last longer in the garden. Plants infected with viruses should be removed and destroyed. For fungal and bacterial pathogens, products at garden centers will help. Always read the labels.
Tomato diseases include Alternaria stem canker, early blight, late blight (Phytophthora; very few varieties are resistant to this one), Fusarium wilt, grey leaf spot, leaf mold, tobacco mosaic virus, tomato mosaic virus, tomato spotted wilt virus, and Verticillium wilt. Catalog listings use initials to indicate disease resistance. For tomatoes, AS, EB, LB, F, GLS, LM, TMV, ToMV, TSWV, and V, respectively, represent those diseases.
Tomatoes are weedy plants and normally produce good crops, despite many organisms that target them. Peppers are susceptible to several races of bacterial leaf spot, and basil to basil downy mildew. Some zinnias are plagued by powdery mildew. Weather conditions, such as high humidity and frequent rain, exacerbate these disease problems.
Most hybrid (or “F1”) tomatoes have some resistance to one or more pathogens, but not to all of them. ‘Big Beef Plus’ is resistant to a wide variety of diseases. ‘Damsel’ and ‘Defiant PhR’ are resistant to late blight. Hybrid seeds carry a higher price than open pollinated varieties due to the cost of research that developed them and the extra steps needed to produce hybrid seeds each year.
It’s so hot out there!
If you live in a hot climate, look for tomato varieties that have been bred to produce better at high temperatures. The pollen in tomatoes and peppers, and others, can die at high temperatures. While these plants are comfortable at 65-80°F, pollen dies above 88°, 90°, or 92°, depending on the cultivar. No pollination = no fruits! A reference to “heat” or to the “south” in the plant’s variety name indicates its higher tolerance for heat.
Researchers are investigating thermo-tolerant genetics in wild tomato species (Solanum pimpinellifolium) and incorporating them in tomato breeding programs.
One trick to preserve viable pollen is lightly shading the plant in the hot afternoon hours. Attach shade fabric—a black woven mesh—to a support over and on the west side of the tomato or pepper plants. This provides a decrease of up to several degrees in hot climates or temporarily during a heat wave. In the photo, above, mesh bags from the grocery store protect fruits from squirrels and sun scald, and lightly shade new flowers and their pollen from high heat.
The young ‘Estiva’ tomato plants (“estiva” refers to summer), a hybrid bred for heat tolerance and great taste, lost most of their diseased bottom leaves in heavy rains, but those little fruits are still growing! I’ll plant them out this weekend, after the temperatures drop well below the 108° heat index value we have now. Recent weather has been in the record-breaking mid- to high 90’s F, with high humidity. Not my favorite conditions to dig in the garden…so I don’t. I was not bred for heat tolerance!
***Update***: ‘Estiva’ tomatoes endured this hot summer and produced fruits past the first fall frosts. I covered them on chilly nights to ripen the last of the fruits. These were among the last tomatoes to succumb to the cold, in mid-November. Autumn 2022
A Few More Tomato Tips
Your best defense against tomato disease, in addition to growing disease resistant varieties, includes these tips:
Stake them. Tall indeterminate types need a 6-8′ tall stake, taller for some.
Remove leaves on the bottom 12″ of the plants after they’ve become established.
Locate them where a breeze blows through the garden. These first 5 tips address increasing air circulation around and through the tomato plants.
Give them lots of direct sun—a minimum of 7 or 8 hours. The more sun they receive, the shorter the window of opportunity for pathogens to germinate on damp leaf surfaces.
Mulch the soil under the plants to prevent disease spores lying dormant in the soil from splashing onto and infecting the foliage. More on Page 4.
Water in the morning to early afternoon so all foliage is dry going into the night. Try to keep the foliage dry at all times and avoid handling wet foliage.
Water established plants heavily (1½”/week) when needed, but avoid giving little sips every day. Young seedlings need more frequent watering until their root systems expand.
Clip off leaves that show early symptoms (yellowing, spotting), and dip your pruners in alcohol when moving from plant to plant.
Don’t smoke near the garden, and wash hands thoroughly before working with plants.
Rotate your crops. Don’t plant a member of the Solanaceae family where any members have grown in the past 3-4 years. There’s more about crop rotation on Page 4.
All plants grown with good soil preparation, good air circulation, proper watering techniques, adequate sun, and appropriate fertilization are less stressed. Less stress equates to lower infection rates.
Growing Heirloom Seedlings
These “black” heirloom tomatoes are higher in beneficial pigments called anthocyanins, which are powerful antioxidants. ‘Cherokee Purple’ (above) originated near the NC/TN border, and had been grown by the Cherokee for generations before seeds became widely available in the early 1990’s.
‘Black Prince’ (left), is a high-yielding variety, shown before fruits darkened.
Heirloom tomatoes are always in demand because of their exceptionally good flavor. Heirlooms are open pollinated, which means gardeners can save seeds from fully ripened fruits each year for the next season’s garden. Because they’re not F1 hybrids but have been breeding true, for the most part, for many decades, heirlooms retain their traits from one generation to the next.
These varieties, however, don’t have much built-in disease resistance. Nevertheless, I’m growing a few heirlooms, and spacing them 4′ apart for improved air circulation. We’ll see what happens.
Commercially grown tomatoes must be able to survive long distance transportation and handling without damage. They’re picked early, when green or first showing color. Varieties of these tomatoes have skins that normally are tougher.
Heirloom tomatoes have more desirable thinner skins and, therefore, travel poorly. So, you won’t see them in grocery stores unless those stores buy from local farms. Heirloom tomatoes from the grocery store might cost $5.00/lb. or more! So, yes, it is worth growing a couple of heirloom tomato plants in our gardens.
A few prolonged and heavy rainy periods this spring almost wiped out certain tomato varieties, namely ‘Carmello’, ‘Brandywine’, and ‘German Johnson’. I still have a few that show less damage than others. ‘Black Krim’ and ‘Cherokee Purple’ are doing fairly well, although they are heirlooms. Most of the remaining plants will be set in the garden. There’s usually a breeze blowing through the property, and by spacing them appropriately, I should get plenty of fruits.
Basil Downy Mildew
First symptom of BDM: yellow blotches between the main veins.
Although this dreaded disease targets only basil, it hasn’t appeared yet this year. But I’m prepared.
Last year, I grew ‘Rutgers Obsession DMR’ (DMR = Downy Mildew Resistant), an acceptable substitute for our beloved ‘Genovese’ and other susceptible sweet basils. Last year’s ‘Obsession’ did not develop any basil downy mildew (BDM)—not one speck—although wet and humid weather presented a worthy challenge. Other basil varieties in the ground or in pots succumbed to the disease within a week of infection…even young seedlings.
This year, I’m growing ‘Rutgers Obsession DMR’ and also ‘Rutgers Devotion DMR’ outside all summer. In addition, I’m seeding the old favorites, including ‘Genovese’, ‘Italian Large Leaf’, Thai basil ‘Siam Queen’, ‘Marseillais Dwarf’, and ‘Tuscany’, a lettuce-leaf basil. A few non-resistant basil plants will come indoors at night when warranted, as described below. But I’ll stop seeding susceptible varieties, except for a few pots, and concentrate on the resistant ones for the farmers’ market if the disease appears in the neighborhood.
Several other BDM resistant varieties can be purchased as seeds or as started plants.
Avoid High Humidity
Healthy sweet basil, in a pot.
If you want to grow your favorite basil varieties that are not resistant to BDM, there is a way to prevent a total loss.
BDM spores move up from the south on the breeze or on infected plants shipped into the area. The spores don’t overwinter in cold climates. If spores land on a susceptible variety, they need a relative humidity above 80-85% for a couple of hours in order to germinate.
Even during pleasant weather, the relative humidity can reach 90% or higher in the 2-3 hours around dawn. That’s when the temperature is usually the coolest and, therefore, the relative humidity is the highest.
When plants show early symptoms of BDM, remove the affected leaves. Take potted basil plants indoors for the night, every night. Indoor conditions never reach those high humidity levels, so you can still grow your preferred basil varieties successfully with a little effort. Remember to place the plants back outdoors after the sun has been up for a couple of hours.
Follow this regimen during rainy weather, although the plants might need to spend a day or two inside. Find the brightest spot to keep them during their temporary stay indoors. If possible, provide some artificial light. Unless it’s wilting, avoid watering basil indoors. Less sunlight means the plant won’t be photosynthesizing optimally or using much water, and wet soil can initiate root rot.
Headings
Page 1: 1. Start with clean materials for seedlings. (Pasteurizing Potting Soil), 2. Grow disease resistant varieties… (…Especially Tomato Seedlings, It’s so hot out there!, A Few More Tomato Tips, Growing Heirloom Seedlings, Basil Downy Mildew, Avoid High Humidity)
Page 2: 3. Timing is important for seedlings. (The Fall Growing Season, Keeping Records, The Cooperative Extension Service, Starting Seedlings Outdoors, Don’t Start Seedlings Too Early, Cool Season Crops, Extending the Growing Season, Seedlings Transplanted Into Bigger Pots, Bunching Onions, The Brassicas, Brassicas In My Garden, Lettuce), 4. Is the temperature suitable for seedlings? (Miniature Incandescent Lights For Warmth, Water Temperature)
Page 3: 5. Start seedlings in small batches. (My Simple Infrastructure), 6. Seedlings need strong light. (Growing Seedlings Under Shop Lights), 7. Cull the weaklings and anomalies. 8. Prevent damping-off disease from killing your seedlings. (Actinovate), 9. Seedlings and plants need fertilizer. (The Elements, Read the Label)
Page 4: 10. Prepare the soil for your transplants. (Start With Good Drainage, Air Pore Space, Gypsum and Lime, Add Nutrient-Rich Amendments, Bury It), 11. Try succession planting for maximum yield. (Crop Rotation, Mulch), 12. Stop the pests before they ruin your garden. (Slugs and Snails, Larvae of Moths and Butterflies, Spider Mites and Thrips, Deer and Rabbits), Concluding
After reading Part 1 of “Plant Trees to Transform Your Landscape”, you’ve located the best spot where a tree will shade the house from brutal summer sun. Recommendations and practices presented here are based on climate and soil in the eastern part of the United States, where I live and garden, but the basic principles apply everywhere.
If your main objectives are shade, attracting wildlife, and less grass to mow, include masses of shrubs and perennials in the landscape plan as well. This article concentrates on planting trees, the dominant features in the landscape.
Native Plants vs. the Non-Natives
The choices offered in garden centers can be narrowed down to native species and non-native, or exotic, species. Within each of those groups are the original species and the cultivars (cultivated varieties). Developed by plant breeders, cultivars exhibit more ornamental or desirable—or just different—characteristics than the species.
‘Red Filigree Lace’, a delicate cultivar of Japanese maple.
Non-native plants originated in a different country or perhaps only a few hundred miles away. If the plant doesn’t occur naturally in your geographic region, it’s non-native, although some gardeners restrict use of the term to plants evolving in another country.
There are many beautiful plants, exotic to our shores, which we’ve enjoyed in our gardens. Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonica), Stewartia pseudocamellia, and the dizzying assortment of Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are just too hard to pass up. You can compromise, if you wish, by including both natives and exotics.
To most garden center visitors, none of this matters. We buy plants that solve problems and look pretty in our yards. But, to explain the relevance of native species, I’d like to expand the subject.
The Benefits of Native Species
First, native plants require less pampering to get them established.
Species that evolved locally can tolerate fluctuations in weather patterns. Temperature extremes, rainfall, humidity, soil types, altitude, wind patterns, and local fauna shaped today’s ecosystems.
Second, gardeners concerned about local pollinators choose plants that foster bees, butterflies, and other animals that pollinate farm crops and wild vegetation.
Every third bite of food we consume is attributable to pollinators. But, you might make the case that since most crops are alien to this country, it shouldn’t matter whether we use native or non-native trees. But we need to consider what larval insects consume, and that’s foliage and other plant parts. Thousands of species—not just bees—pollinate our farms, orchards, fields, and forests.
Egg-laying female moths and butterflies, beetles, and other insects are very selective and seek the natives they evolved with to supply sustenance for the following generation.
Incidentally, honey bees are not native to this part of the world. They will, however, forage from plants grown here, many of which are related to the plants they evolved with.
Making a Case For Single Flowers
Amaryllis with yellow pollen and white stigma.
Double amaryllis with no anthers or stigma.
Flowers attract pollinators, which reap the harvest of nectar and pollen. But many double- and triple-petaled flowers have lost their nectaries, stigmas, and/or pollen-tipped stamens. Photos above clearly illustrate the loss of reproductive parts in a double amaryllis cultivar. If these hybridized doubles and triples have lost the ability to reproduce sexually, they can’t make seeds. They must instead be propagated asexually, or vegetatively, by cuttings, division, grafts, or tissue culture.
The anthers, supported by filaments, bear the pollen; the male portion of the flower, collectively, is called the stamen. Female parts comprise the stigma, supported by the style, and the ovary, with its ovules, deeper within the receptacle; the female portion is called the pistil.
Not all dense flower heads are pollinator wastelands, though. Species in the Asteraceae family, for example, have flowers that normally look full. This family includes all the composites, such as aster, coneflower, daisy, dandelion, rudbeckia, and sunflower. Their dense inflorescences are composed of small florets arranged in a head, called a capitulum. But the original species also have the necessary reproductive parts. The composites are one of the most successful groups of plants and are found on every continent except Antarctica.
At a local garden center last year, I watched bumble bees that were quick to land on thickly-petaled hybrid red coneflowers (Echinacea). They were equally hasty in their departure! The bees stayed on the red flowers for a fraction of a second, while they lingered on the less frilly flowers of other cultivars, mining several florets in each flower for their treasure.
Pollinators waste precious energy visiting barren double-flowered hybrids. True, not all doubles lack nectar and pollen. For the pollinators’ sake, though, select more species or varieties with simple flowers. Natural selection favors plants that set seed, of course, which is why most native plants have simpler flowers.
Photos below show examples of single-flowering cultivars. If you see a boss of stamens and pistils in the flowers, those plants can probably supply pollen and nectar to the pollinators. This is a fine point, granted, but one that is critically important to populations of pollinators, given the preponderance of double-flowering hybrids at garden centers.
Bumble bee on perennial aster.
Pollinator on fruit tree.
Purple coneflower (Echinacea) with bumble bee.
Third, planting a multitude of native species helps secure the future of threatened or endangered insects and animals.
In many regions, songbird populations have declined by half due to human intervention. Some have disappeared entirely. Trees and shrubs that provide shelter, nesting sites, berries or seeds, and which host insects, can help bring back the birds. Abundant biodiversity is a valid protection against the domino collapse of interdependent species.
Civilization has claimed much of the insects’ natural environments, so each of us can play a small part in rebuilding habitats. Annual butterfly counts show drastic declines. Monarch butterflies, in particular, now have less territory available in Mexico, a major overwintering site, than in the past, when they migrated by the millions.
Maintaining brush piles for overwintering insects and animals will help repopulate your landscape early in the season. Hauling those materials off to the recycling center, however, is sure death for the insects tucked inside. Fewer insects = fewer birds and other animals.
Fourth, incorporating native plants into the landscape helps keep the entire food chain intact.
A green anole basking in morning sun.
Insects feeding on plants become food for frogs, lizards, birds, and mammals. They, in turn, become food for snakes, hawks, foxes, and other predators. In many ecosystems, insects native to the region are the foundation on which the entire food chain is based.
A rich diversity of plant material supports an enormous number of insect and animal species. Left undisturbed, populations find a balance among themselves. On the other hand, life in monoculture, such as a lawn, is sparse. Unfortunately, countless urban and suburban neighborhoods have become dead zones with all their natural vegetation bulldozed to the ground.
As we spray, mow, burn, or build in natural environments, species will continue their rapid decline. Certainly, we need places to live and work, but we can also “give back” by planting for wildlife instead of continually killing it off.
Check with your state’s native plant society,native plant finders, BeeCity USA, and the local agricultural extension service for information. In addition to these sources, find a knowledgeable salesperson at the garden center for practical advice and sources of plant material. Garden shows might feature vendors specializing in native plants as this branch of horticulture grows.
Native Species and Nativars
Red fall color in a native white oak tree.
Plant breeders have brought to the marketplace many cultivars of our native species. These nativars might have purple or red foliage instead of green, or double flowers instead of single. Perhaps they mature at a shorter height than the original species, making them a better fit for small properties.
Garden centers often stock varieties of native species, although those selling native plants might also stock the original species. By a comfortable margin, though, most of the trees and shrubs in U.S. garden centers are cultivars of non-native species. Many originated in Asia, a treasure trove of tempting horticultural novelties.
Red Leaves and Wildlife
Red fall color and flower buds on native flowering dogwood.
Many trees develop red or burgundy fall foliage. Species native to the eastern U.S. with red fall foliage include sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum), flowering dogwood (Cornus florida), black gum (Nyssa sylvatica), red maple (Acer rubrum), sugar maple (Acer saccharum), red oaks (Quercus rubra, Q. coccinea), and white oak (Quercus alba).
Red- or purple-leaved cultivars sporting this color all summer are in high demand at garden centers. But if the point of planting trees and shrubs is for wildlife, we want to be sure the plants we choose will attract them. Each plant species has a particular menu of chemical compounds in their tissues that either attract or repel insects and animals. Organisms evolved a tolerance for these compounds…or they didn’t!
Purple and red leaves often repel insects due to their high levels of anthocyanins, the red pigments in the foliage. So, that defeats the purpose, doesn’t it? Not necessarily; these trees might have had green leaves that hosted insects before leaves turned red. Or insects simply tolerate the red pigments.
Oak trees support huge numbers of insects, birds, and mammals at various times during the year. This one genus, Quercus, hosts hundreds of species of moths and butterflies, although they often turn red in the fall.
Before planting a cultivar that stays red all season, though, find out if insects, such as mature caterpillars, will eat the leaves. This indicates that it could host insects for their entire life cycle. If all the larvae are tiny, however, when some larger individuals are expected, most might have crawled off to greener pastures.
If bees spend time working a flower and don’t fly off immediately after landing, that plant could be a good choice. Similarly, holes in the leaves indicate that the plant can host insects. Resources at the local university’s entomology department or botanical garden might have information that could help you choose plants that support wildlife.
The Untold Story
I’ve been packing the past couple of weeks, preparing to move to a rural location in northern North Carolina. I took a break from the work and sat on the deck, listening to the birds and insects.
One of those sounds was the hum of an approaching ruby-throated hummingbird, the only species summering in this area. Four feet away, and less than 4″ long, this tiny bird landed on a twig of the potted native dogwood tree, sitting right next to me. He then hovered near the flower buds (photo, above, with last year’s fall color), and I could see his tongue working the buds, one after another. These buds are tightly closed, yet he found something worth gathering, despite the presence of other flowers nearby.
Within a minute, another hummingbird arrived for the same reason, apparently. The two tiny birds fought for feeding rights, and the second one flew away after some impressive aerial maneuvering among the twigs. The first hummingbird continued searching for hidden sustenance held inside those buds. I’ve never seen this behavior.
My point is this: there’s much about the natural world that remains unobserved—a mystery to us—perhaps lending more credibility to the importance of using native plants in our gardens. (This section added 10/6/21.)
Deciduous Trees For the Eastern U.S.
Here’s a partial list of native and non-native trees that support wildlife. Large deciduous shrubs can substitute for trees in smaller spaces. Many other species might suit your purpose, so visit a few nurseries to see what’s available.
Most trees are sold in large plastic nursery pots, although you might also see freshly dug trees with their roots wrapped in burlap (“b&b”, or balled and burlapped).
American hop hornbeam (Ostrya)
basswood (Tilia)
birch (Betula)
black gum (Nyssa)
Carolina silverbell (Halesia)
chaste tree (Vitex)
cherry and plum (Prunus)
crabapple (Malus)
crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia)
dogwood (Cornus)
franklin tree (Franklinia)
fringe tree (Chionanthus)
hornbeam (Carpinus)
magnolia (Magnolia)
maple (Acer)
oak (Quercus)
poplar, cottonwood (Populus)
redbud (Cercis)
serviceberry (Amelanchier)
sourwood (Oxydendrum)
willow (Salix)
winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
witch hazel (Hamamelis)
Native red maple can have yellow, orange, or red fall color.
Most of the trees listed above have small- or medium-sized species or varieties. Compare suitability of native and non-native species within the genus. The familiar weeping willow, for example, is non-native and quite messy in the landscape. But smaller native willows behave better and host a large number of moths and butterflies.
Research disease resistance, flowers for pollinators, fruits for animals, sun or shade preferences, and soil types. Consider planting species that drop excessive amounts of fruit, acorns, or seedpods farther from the house and paved surfaces.
Also look into the tree’s habit of growth. A specimen with horizontal branches softens the strong vertical lines of a house. Pay close attention to utility poles and wires. Don’t plant trees near them that the utility company will butcher in future years.
Trees with invasive surface roots should be reserved for areas far from structures, pipes, and vegetable gardens. Find out from your town how close to the street or the property line you’re permitted to plant trees. Don’t forget to call 8-1-1 to locate underground utilities before digging.
Chionanthus, the fringe tree (photo, below), is a beautiful bloomer for gardens. This multi-stem plant has 2 species commonly available (C. virginicus, C. retusus), one native and the other from Asia. Male plants have larger flowers, but females set deep blue fruits for birds. The plants, however, are rarely sexed at the nursery.
Fringe tree.
The Hollies
Gardeners have used hollies in gardens for centuries. We can choose among deciduous and evergreen species.
The hollies (Ilex spp.) are another genus of primarily dioecious (Latin for “two houses”) plants that fruit on female plants. They ordinarily require a male plant, or pollenizer, to set fruit, although holly pollenizers (the males) themselves do not set fruit. Modern breeding techniques have yielded several cultivars that can make berries without pollination.
Ask your nursery salesperson for specifics regarding the need for pollenizers and how close they should be planted to female hollies. Choose the male hollies carefully; they must be closely related to the female holly and bloom at the same time. Incidentally, holly flowers are often nicely fragrant, and the bees love them! Just don’t shear them off after the buds have formed. Pruning should be minimal if you want flowers and fruits. And bees.
The Curious Case of Crape Myrtle
The Imperial moth.
Lagerstroemia indica is an extremely popular landscape tree or shrub in USDA zones 7-9. Crape myrtle, from China and Korea, was first introduced to the southeastern U.S. over 200 years ago. Adapting readily to our hot, humid summers and sometimes drought, it blooms for months despite the adversity.
What makes this non-native plant peculiar is a native moth’s preference for its leaves even when offered a multitude of its local favorites. Last year, I raised caterpillars of the huge Imperial moth. They went for the crape myrtle every time, ignoring all the others. Unless female moths instinctively target this species to host their young, the caterpillars will not likely eat these trees to the bone any time soon.
Several songbirds, including American goldfinches and juncos, feed on the seedpods.
Evergreens
You might prefer an evergreen specimen instead of a tree that drops its leaves in autumn. Look into arborvitae, chamaecyparis, hemlock, certain holly species, juniper, pine, rhododendron, spruce, and yew. Consider the shade evergreens will cast in winter, and whether sunlight might be blocked from entering windows or melting ice on the driveway.
Although not all evergreens are native to this part of the country, they make suitable nesting places and provide shelter in inclement weather. A dense border of evergreens can block fierce winter wind for a considerable distance downwind.
Soon after moving into the Maryland house in the 1980’s, I planted a chamaecyparis with deep green whorled foliage. Although it was supposed to get only 6′ tall according to the nursery, it grew to about 20′, when it was cut down by the people who bought the house from me. I left it in the front yard because birds raised a few families among its evergreen branches every year. And it looked gorgeous in the snow.
Chamaecyparis on the right, after 2010 blizzard. Sourwood on the left.
Good Looks
If you’re landscaping purely for aesthetics, plant a tree with characteristics that appeal to you. It’s your property, after all. Besides, all trees provide cover and nesting opportunities, even if they’re passed up by caterpillars.
Perhaps elsewhere you could grow perennials that offer food to wildlife. Planting a bed of milkweeds among the shrubs, for example, will help the monarch butterflies (photo, below).
While you might not consider insects important in your landscape, and, in fact, have invested considerable time and expense eradicating them, they are primary links in the food chain. A healthy landscape hosts a complex assortment of insects and animals. And with the rate at which natural habitats are losing out to development, it’s no wonder we see fewer ladybugs, butterflies, and songbirds in our neighborhoods.
Creating welcoming landscapes provides resting places for migrating birds. But they need natural corridors all along their path in order to find food and perching opportunities. We can help by planting at least part of our property with them in mind—every one of us! Provide food, water, and trees to rest in, and you might catch a glimpse of a bird you’ve never seen before.
I urge you to adopt a new attitude toward welcoming wildlife. You don’t need 10 acres to make a difference. A well-planted fraction of an acre will encourage many kinds of insects and animals to reside there. If you let them eat your plants and the sprayer hasn’t been used once this year, well done!
Monarch butterfly on milkweed.
Before Planting Trees
Let’s imagine a 2-story house and an appropriately proportional medium-sized tree. Your landscape plan calls for locating this tree off the southwest corner in the front of the house.
To prevent branches from rubbing against the siding in the future, you’ll want to plant the tree far enough from the house. Divide the mature spread of the tree by 2. Because plants tend to grow larger than the dimensions printed on the label, add a few feet to the measurement. So, a tree with a mature spread of 25-30′ should be planted 15′ or more from the corner.
While that little tree might look lonely out there, it will grow. Maybe that’s the extent of your garden project this fall. Or perhaps you’d like to develop a full garden on that side of the house with an underplanting of shrubs, perennials, and ground covers.
Walking a pathway through the garden to the side yard will feel like a walk through a park. This is a good solution where space is limited between your house and the neighbor’s. Consider your neighbor, though, and don’t plant too close to the property line. Perhaps the two of you could create an appealing garden that fills the space between both houses.
But first, it’s soil prep…please turn to page 2…
Headings:
Page 1: Are You Ready To Plant Trees?, Native Plants vs. the Non-Natives (The Benefits of Native Species, Native Species and Nativars, Red Leaves and Wildlife, The Untold Story), Deciduous Trees For the Eastern U.S. (The Hollies, The Curious Case of Crape Myrtle, Evergreens), Good Looks, and Before Planting Trees
Page 2: Soil Preparation For Trees (Slope, Outline the Bed, Heavy Clay, “How Deep?”, Adding Amendments, Organic Matter, and Time To Plant Trees (Trees In Pots, B&B Trees, Backfill, Edge, Mulch, And Water)
Early spring offerings at the garden center where I worked for a few years.
Early Spring Activities
This is my favorite time of the year…when winter transitions into spring. In this USDA zone 7b location, in southern North Carolina, warm spring weather might alternate with cold rainy days, but the trend, at least, is going in the right direction.
Give the gardens some time to dry somewhat before working in the soil. Walking on wet soil will collapse the minute air tunnels that help the soil drain. We’ve had so much rain through the winter that gardening activities might best be limited to growing plants in pots for now.
For the Birds
Yesterday, after working on the potted plants outdoors, I sat for a few minutes just to listen to the songbirds calling to each other. Cardinals, goldfinches, Carolina wrens, chipping sparrows, tufted titmice, and robins are communicating with their mates or looking for new ones. A delightful soundtrack!
In early spring of last year, a pair of wrens built their nest in an empty 6″ pot (photos, below), sitting on a plant stand. This location is under an overhang and faces south, creating a warm microclimate. The deer netting stopped raccoons from climbing the stand, but it didn’t deter the birds.
The wrens and nuthatches, in particular, normally come to the feeders only a few feet away from where I pot up plants. Unfortunately, the wrens abandoned the nest after laying eggs, even though they were comfortable having me around. It appeared that a snake must have scared them off. Occasional disappointments are par for the course in the natural world. The eggs were cold when I found them and wouldn’t have hatched.
The wrens are now investigating the pots stored under the potting table, so I moved one to the plant stand.
The wrens collected moss, dry leaves, pine needles.
Building the nest.
Keeping the eggs warm.
The abandoned nest and a snake skin.
Replanting the Wire Hanging Basket
The Basket and the Liner
A 16″ wire hanging basket has hung on the shepherd’s hook in the front garden for 5 or 6 years. It’s planted with a few perennials and a rotating cast of colorful characters. For fall through mid-spring, I add pansies and violas, and then replace them with heat tolerant annuals for the summer.
This time, instead of buying another coco liner that the birds will instantly pick to shreds, I used a large fabric pot that had been idly hanging around the shed for years. After planting and installing it on the hook, I wrapped the completed basket with deer netting to prevent the kind of damage they can do.
The heavy synthetic material was cut and shaped, and the excess was later trimmed to just above the rim. The material is similar to landscape fabric, but sturdier. So, I wasn’t concerned about the liner slumping through the wires. Nor am I concerned that the birds would steal it! Water will drain through without taking any soil with it. It doesn’t look bad, after smoothing the sides. In fact, I now prefer it over coco liner!
More Options
So, maybe you have something that can be repurposed to use in your wire baskets. A couple of layers of porous landscape fabric or heavy burlap probably would work as well. I was prepared to tie black deer netting inside the basket to support the liner, but it wasn’t needed.
When planting wire baskets, I always add a layer of plastic inside the liner to help slow evaporation. It also delays decomposition when using a coco liner. Poke several holes in the lower third of the plastic to allow for drainage. But keeping the lowest 1″ to 1 1/2″ intact will provide a small reservoir of water for thirsty plants on a hot summer day.
Add Some Color For Early Spring Plantings
On one of my daytrips to northern North Carolina last autumn, I bought a few packs of pansies and violas from Beautiful Earth Garden Shop on NC 704 in Lawsonville, North Carolina. (Phone 336 593-1083; call for hours.) Well, I never got around to planting them, so they overwintered on the covered porch. Rabbits helped themselves to the flowers as they opened. But the plants look fine, and it was time to give them a proper home.
Help wanted!
I replaced about 1/3 of the soil in the basket with fresh potting soil. The new soil contains a fair amount of peat moss, which provides the acidity these plants need. The pansies and violas will fill the spaces between the existing heuchera, variegated pachysandra, and acorus.
Golden creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) replaces the English ivy that the deer yanked out of the pot. Chartreuse foliage spreads wherever it wants and will trail over the sides. These existing perennials already have started growing during this early spring weather. Creeping jenny spreads rapidly in moist soil, so take care if you prefer not letting it escape to the garden.
I’ll enjoy this arrangement until warm weather settles in, and when summer annuals will be planted in all new potting soil. Violas and pansies die in hot temperatures but can be grown again in late summer/autumn. In this climate, they’ll survive the winter and flower most of that time.
Trimming old growth.
All planted and trimmed.
I like this fabric pot as a liner.
The same basket, 3 weeks after planting.
And Edibles for Early Spring
Spinach ‘Monstrueux de Viroflay’
Last year’s spinach ‘Monstrueux de Viroflay’.
Also called ‘Monster of Viroflay’, this is my favorite spinach to grow in pots. A few plants sown last fall remain in a 14″ wide bowl (6″ deep), so I added more seeds and some fresh potting soil around them. The seeds are 4 years old, so they might germinate…but they might not (…they didn’t).
Spinach, lettuce, and other greens are among the easiest crops to grow from seed, either in pots or in the garden. All seeded pots outside must be covered with deer netting to protect them from perpetually hungry chipmunks, mice, birds, and squirrels.
Oxalates and Kidney Stones
This spinach, a French heirloom dating back to 1866, has huge leaves and a milder flavor than the smaller-leaved varieties. It also has lower levels of oxalates, which, for some, are a concern. If you get kidney stones, ask your doctor, and also ask about kidney pH levels.
A diet high in animal proteins tends to lead to an acidic (or low) pH. On the other hand, those consuming a primarily plant-based diet have higher (more alkaline) pH levels. People with acidic systems are more likely to develop kidney stones.
We’re all different, of course. And to further complicate matters, our bodies make oxalates, some absorb more than others, and certain gut bacteria consume them!
Broccoli
This year, I bought a variety called ‘Lieutenant’. It was the only one the garden center had. The label says “few side shoots”, which is a disadvantage since those smaller side shoots can prolong the harvest for weeks or months. But I’ll try it. I planted 4 of them in a 20″ wide pot, in soil well enriched with composted manure.
As broccoli grows, I’ll harvest a lower leaf now and then to add to soup or a stir-fry. Super nutritious.
(***Update***: Although I’ve grown broccoli twice a year in these pots for a few years, this crop of ‘Lieutenant’ was rather disappointing. May 2021)
Lettuce
Lettuce ‘Red Sails’.
I planted a few ‘Red Sails’ from the cell pack into a 12″ wide pot. This red and green leaf lettuce is more heat tolerant than many and should keep producing for quite a long time. Even so, lettuce prefers cool weather and can be planted in late winter in southeastern U.S. Red-leaved lettuces have more beneficial antioxidants, such as anthocyanins, than green lettuces.
Pick the outer leaves and let the center of the plant continue growing. When it turns bitter or goes to flower, that’s the end of lettuce in the garden until the weather cools again in autumn. Regularly fertilizing all greens with fish emulsion or some other high nitrogen product provides nutrients for steady growth.
Sharp-tipped pine cones and deer netting discourage animals from burying seeds from the bird feeder.
Strawberries For Early Spring Planting
Strawberry ‘Ozark Beauty’.
In bloom, 3 weeks later.
The garden center also had strawberry plants, which looked very healthy. I planted all 4 ‘Ozark Beauty’ plants in a 12″ pot. Yes, that is tight. There’s limited space where I currently live, so this is just a fun experiment. Later, a larger garden will be planted with lots of berries and other perennial edibles.
When transplanting strawberries, be sure to keep the crown at or slightly above the soil surface (photo, above), not buried. Before long, big ripe berries will join me for breakfast, even though the first few weeks of flowers should be removed. This is another plant that will need to be netted. Everyone wants ripe strawberries.
***Update***: I harvested about 15 yummy strawberries this season. The first few were delicious and large, followed by smaller berries. It’s recommended to remove all flowers during the early weeks, but, for this pot, I just let them grow…and set fruit. June 2021
No, these did not grow on the potted plant.
* * * * * * * * *
I need a good-sized pot to grow snap peas on a trellis, and another for dinosaur kale. Maybe I’ll find them under the potting table, before they’re claimed by our local wrens.
This is just the beginning. There are so many cool season crops, from seeds or transplants, that can be grown in containers. Ask your local agricultural extension agent for early spring recommendations tailored to your climate.
Fall weather has debuted in most regions of the northern temperate zone. And frost has kissed the peaks of the higher elevations in western North Carolina. But, before you gather the tools, the leaf bags, and the kids for the fall cleanup, consider being a little less tidy this year. I’ll explain how to do this when constructing a few brush piles in the garden.
“What? Why?” you might ask. Sure, the gardens always look neat and orderly after the fall cleanup, while the plants remain dormant and bare. But at what cost?
While cooling weather invigorates, it also sends signals to local wildlife that they must prepare for winter, or they will perish. Food and water for those remaining active, shelter from the elements, and protection from predators will become life-or-death issues for these organisms over the coming months.
Plants benefit from a layer of organic matter on the ground below them. It insulates their root systems from severe cold and holds moisture in the soil. A covering over the soil also prevents topsoil from blowing away. As the material decomposes, plants absorb valuable nutrients. This natural mulch also provides nutrients for earthworms and soil microbes, which contribute to the biological health of the soil. “I’m with you so far, Mother Nature.”
“Okay, so I’ll mulch the gardens.” Well…that’s better than nothing, but it’s not quite the same.
And Here’s Why:
This caterpillar mimics a dogwood twig.
In each region, thousands of species of beneficial spiders, insects, and other animals rely on that garden debris over the harsh winter months. It protects them from temperature extremes, icy storms, and desiccation. It protects them from certain death, which is inevitable when that debris is hauled off to the recycling center.
Imagine how many butterfly chrysalises or praying mantis eggs will be carted off to their doom. Or the enormous number of native bees seeking refuge inside and among dead plant stems.
And what’s the buzzword of the decade in gardening circles around the world? Right: Pollinators! But are we doing them a favor by removing them and the debris they’re sheltering in? We are not.
What We Can Do About It
Dormant insects remaining on the property, protected in brush piles all winter, will restock the garden in the spring. Otherwise, the landscape is pretty lifeless, until bees, beetles, butterflies, and moths gradually move back to your garden months later. But there won’t be nearly as many of them if so many were removed with the fall cleanup.
Begin construction of new brush piles by mid- to late summer. Caterpillars crawling around will find them suitable resting places and pupate among the twigs for a long winter nap. Some insects overwinter as adults, briefly emerging on warm winter days to feed. Leaving the shelters in place all year, however, is the best option, and one which benefits many insects and animals.
Consider letting nature behave closer to the way it was intended, the way it evolved over time. Who doesn’t want more butterflies and birds flying around the garden? This complex web of life in your own neighborhood will improve as a result. More insects to pollinate the vegetables, fruit trees, and natural stands of vegetation. And more food for frogs and baby birds. More beauty, more interest, more life!
Brush Piles For the Birds
Carolina wren, a tiny bird with a mighty voice.
Birds (including wrens, cardinals, juncos, thrashers, robins, sparrows, mourning doves, and towhees) often forage close to the ground. All my life, I’ve been fascinated by birds and by all of nature. We’ve watched them search through leaf litter and brush piles for worms, seeds, insects, and other sources of food. They also will find materials for nest-building activities in late winter and spring.
Some birds seek shelter among the piles of twigs when storms blow in. And they’re handy places to hide when predatory hawks are spotted overhead. Wrens are particularly active around these structures, so you might want to construct one within view of the house.
Any Other Benefits?
There are ecological benefits of keeping in place the biomass produced on your property. Considering the “carbon footprint”, nature’s mulch is an improvement on bringing in bagged mulch that had to be processed and transported to your retailer and then to your home.
Truth be told, though, I often used mulch in gardens that I installed for customers. But I also planted a variety of evergreen and deciduous material, flowering plants, and ground covers. These gardens hosted a rich assortment of indigenous insects and animals, even after the fall cleanup.
And, of course, you won’t need as many of those yard bags often seen lining residential curbsides. Imagine the savings in resources by making brush piles on your property: plastic bags, paper bags, and time, gasoline, and money spent picking up mulch or paying the town to recycle garden debris. Recycling is better than the landfill, but not removing debris from the property is even better.
Another bonus is the compost that gathers under the pile as organic materials break down. Scoop it out and use it in the vegetable garden or in potted plants. Replenish with leaves and twigs as the material reduces to compost. You might want to start a separate compost pile for leaves, weeds, twigs, and kitchen vegetable scraps and eggshells. Or simply bury the kitchen scraps in a hole in the garden. If earthworms are active, they’ll consume it within a week or two.
It’s entertaining, for many of us, to watch the birds on a cold winter day. Provide a source of clean water and a bird feeder to attract them to your yard.
Undisturbed environments provide habitat for overwintering insects and animals.
“But what will the neighbors say?”
I realize this requires a leap of tradition to implement. One suggestion is to edge the beds and to keep grass neatly mown. Plant up a few colorful pots for the summer and winter seasons. This will indicate that the gardener living there does care about her property and that her brush piles are intentional. Maybe the neighbors will take a cue and do likewise; mention the pollinators! And the carbon footprint!
If space permits, keep a few brush piles in the back yard, out of public view. If you have space only in the front, perhaps you can hide your Pollinator Palace behind some shrubs.
Suburban Life
Now, if you have a homeowner’s association to deal with, you can keep the front yard looking presentable and still be ecologically correct. Even in the city, constructing attractive twig sculptures as “garden art” can serve several purposes at the same time. I’ve seen twigs and leaves molded into animal shapes and simple mounds.
During the fall cleanup, rake or use a mulching mower and direct the chopped leaves under the trees and shrubs and into flower gardens. Smaller pieces of material decompose faster and are less conspicuous. Then place a 1″-2″ layer of shredded hardwood mulch or pine bark nuggets over the chopped leaves. Nice and tidy. Earthworms will feast on those leafy bits while the worms are still active, and insects will hide in the debris.
Move fallen twigs and dead stems to the piles out of view. If you’re absolutely overwhelmed with too much material, choose which parts will go to the recycling center. But if you notice a mantis egg case or butterfly chrysalises, cut those parts of the stems and add them to your brush pile or tuck them among the shrubs.
Replacing Grass with Mixed Plantings
Making brush piles is a natural part of the fall cleanup in rural areas. But many of us live where expansive lawns, trees, and HOA’s predominate. By adding shrub borders and undergrowth, though, more birds, mammals, and insects will make your garden their home.
A verdant, layered landscape naturally provides more opportunities for insects and animals to find food and shelter.This kind of environment supports the rich biodiversity that is becoming increasingly rare as suburbs gobble up more territory. We can help by providing conditions that attract wildlife: food and water, shelter, and places to raise offspring. For starters, let the dandelions bloom! If you see a large area of clover, mow around it and let the honey bees collect nectar and pollen. And, of course, avoid using pesticides in the landscape.
Replacing grass with trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs, and annuals gives me the greatest satisfaction. And, no, it doesn’t have to look like “a jungle out there”. Well-designed and diversified borders are very attractive, and they bring biological activity within view. They also add to the property value!
Being connected to nature is an innate need that benefits us psychologically. And shrub borders afford a measure of privacy in communities where houses line up with little space in between.
You’ll enjoy seasonal blooms, dazzling fall color, winter structure, and the promise of spring in delicately unfolding leaves. While we enjoy the beauty of the garden, the wildlife will have found a welcoming home for generations to come.
Brush Piles: Basic Construction
There’s no formula for building these brush piles. Frankly, anything will work. Make it large enough, though. Several feet on each side will do, and 2′ or 3′ tall to begin with. Smaller lodgings will function well enough for pupating insects.
If you have the space, however, construct something more substantial. A large twiggy brush pile in the old Maryland garden discouraged deer from jumping over the fence in that location. And all kinds of animals found food and shelter there.
Removing all the dead stems and leaves during the fall cleanup severely reduces populations of these little critters. Advancing up the food chain, fewer caterpillars and beetles means less food for larger insects, frogs, and birds…which means less food for snakes, bigger birds, and foxes. So, that means less life overall in the garden.
Several habitats around a spacious yard are better than one big brush pile. Think of a little caterpillar roaming around, looking for a place to pupate in late summer. Close, in his case, is better than far.
Caterpillars are in a race against time when looking for their winter homes. As masters of camouflage, chrysalises often look like dead leaves or sticks, blending in with the surroundings. But caterpillars traveling a greater distance have a higher risk of being consumed by predators.
The gulf fritillary’s chrysalis (photo, above) is difficult to detect on plants that are dying down in autumn. Unfortunately, this one pupated on the door frame, and ended up as dinner for a local lizard.
The Process
Oak leaves keep a more open, airy structure.
First, lay down a bed of fallen leaves. Then pile large branches on the leaves, and add twigs, and more leaves on top. Add some perennial stems from the front yard, and the frosted zinnias and seedy marigolds. Simple!
Add more branches, leaves, and twigs through the season. The shelter doesn’t need to be airtight. Insects and animals will find nooks and crannies to hide in. Adding a layer of evergreen boughs on top and on the windward side will help keep the pile dry for the inhabitants inside.
Keep some openings large enough for birds to enter when they need shelter from a predator. Chipmunks, mice, toads, and reptiles also will enjoy your efforts. Some are likely to hibernate in the soil under the brush pile.
The old potting soil from the summer pots can be used in the gardens, where organic components will continue to break down and improve the soil. Or place it on the windy side of the shelter.
Perennials In Place, Then To the Brush Piles
Purple coneflower (Echinacea) with bumble bee.
Pollinators on goldenrod (Solidago).
Two varieties of tickseed (Coreopsis).
Sedum seedheads.
If possible, let the herbaceous perennials, such as black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta, R. fulgida), coneflower (Echinacea), tickseed (Coreopsis), goldenrod (Solidago), asters, and ornamental grasses remain in place as they go dormant. Bees and other pollinators will busily collect pollen and nectar as long as the flowers produce it. Birds will pick at the seedheads in autumn and winter.
Insects that fed on plants during the summer will shelter or lay eggs on or near them for next year’s generation. A good time to cut back the dead plant stems is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. If you must remove the stems earlier, add them to the brush piles. But leaving the dead plants standing in place distributes the habitats—and the sheltering wildlife—throughout the property.
A green anole basking in morning sun, NC.
Insect on Itea virginica.
An Attitude Adjustment
While the fall cleanup has been the normal practice for generations of homeowners, the consequences include diminished populations of wildlife.Most of the plants that feed us and animal life require insects to pollinate them. Disposing overwintering insects in enormous bags for curbside pickup, however, eliminates huge numbers of beneficial organisms.
And then we wonder why there aren’t as many fireflies and ladybugs, moths and butterflies, frogs, lizards, and birds as there were in generations past.
Fewer caterpillars and beetles will support fewer toads and birds. It’s as simple as that. Bird populations in several types of ecosystems are disappearing at an astonishingly rapid rate. Loss of habitat is part of the cause, but we can start to reverse that trend by simply adopting a fresh attitude toward wildlife. Appreciate it. Encourage it. Nurture it. Where you live.
Watch Douglas W. Tallamy’s videos or pick up a copy of his book, Bringing Nature Home, for inspiration and lists of plants that attract wildlife. Also, there are loads of pictures of insects, and a strong emphasis on using native plants. On the back cover:
“…Douglas Tallamy presents a powerful and compelling illustration of how the choices we make as gardeners can profoundly impact the diversity of life in our yards, towns and on our planet.”
Dorsal view of the Imperial moth on the glass storm door.
Most of us follow some sort of routine after sunset or before retiring for the evening. First, I bring the bird feeder indoors. If I don’t, the raccoons will surely empty it—every last seed. Once, a few years ago, they had removed the feeder from the hook and entirely disassembled it.
Second, I turn on the front porch light, and, later, secure the storm door. If I hadn’t done this a couple of nights ago, I would have missed this visitor. In the few seconds it took to grab the camera, the moth had already slid partway down the glass. I’ve never seen one of these Imperial moths, and it was an impressive sight!
After taking photographs, I gently nudged the moth into a glass bowl for the night. She didn’t seem terribly eager to fly away, and didn’t require much encouragement. The plan included show-and-tell with a couple of neighbors the next morning before releasing the moth to the trees down the block.
This Imperial Moth Is a Big One
This female moth has a 5.5″ wingspan.
This Imperial moth has a wingspan of 5.5″, although adults normally measure from 3″ to 7″ wide. This one is a female. Males have more purplish-brown spotting on their wings. Another distinction involves the antennae on males, which are feathered in order to more easily detect pheromones given off by females.
In formal circles, she is known as Eaclesimperialis imperialis (Drury, 1773). The Imperial moth is found in rural and suburban habitats from Argentina north to New England, and, in the United States, from the Rocky Mountains east to the Atlantic Ocean.
In the northern U.S. and Canada, its populations have been in decline since the mid 1900’s due to artificial lighting, pesticides, and diminishing habitat. This moth is quite common throughout the mid Atlantic region.
Life Cycle of the Imperial Moth: 4 Stages
1. The Egg
A small caterpillar emerges from the yellow egg in 10 to 14 days, consuming its shell (chorion). But the young caterpillars might roam for a few days, I’ve read, before settling down on the branch of choice. (***Update***: Eggs can hatch within a day or two, as documented under “They Hatched!”, below.)
2. The Five Instars
When it emerges from the shell, the larva can puff itself up to about 1/3″ long, appearing larger. The black spines (scoli) at the head and the posterior end might ward off predators.
After feeding for a while, the larva is ready to molt. The caterpillar attaches silk to the main vein of the leaf, and grasps the silk with its legs and prolegs. Each time the caterpillar molts, it expands, and the exoskeleton firms up. Sometimes the larvae eat their exoskeletons for the protein content.
As members of the Saturniidae family (the giant silkworms), Imperial moth larvae undergo 5 instars. During the first instar, the larvae are orange with black crossbands, and have short hairs. They grow darker after each molt, although there are regional variations and subspecies.
By the last instar, the caterpillars are 3.5″ to 5″ long. Color morphs will be dark brown, burgundy, or green, and they have long hairs and shorter spines. In sensitive people, these hairs and bristles can cause a rash.
The dark colored larvae have white spiracle patches, while green caterpillars have yellow spiracle patches. Spiracles are breathing pores, located in a line down each side of the caterpillar.
Larvae of the Imperial moth feed on native oak, maple, sweet gum, sassafras, and pine trees. Some websites indicate the caterpillars’ preference for pine trees. They also feed on eucalyptus, box elder, and Norway spruce. Less commonly, the larvae feed on elm, hickory, persimmon, honey locust, and many others.
This caterpillar is a favorite food source for birds.
3. The Pupa
After the 5th instar has matured, it burrows into the ground to pupate. The Imperial moth does not make a cocoon, as other silk moths do. The overwintering pupa is dark reddish brown to black, and has appendages on the posterior end that help it rise in the soil just before the adult emerges. While buried, it is not vulnerable to birds, although burrowing animals might eat it.
4. The Adult Moth
Adults emerge, usually at dawn, to mate. In the northern part of their range, adults appear in mid-summer (June-August). In the southern part of their range, they emerge over a longer period of time, from April through October.
Imperial moths have only one brood per year. In warm areas where they’re found, some observers have stated that they have 2 broods. But it is believed that the one brood is actually emerging over a prolonged period of time.
Males appear before the females. After mating, female Imperial moths lay eggs on foliage at dusk.
A Mommy Moth!
This is the ventral surface of the moth, and what I saw first. “Oh, wow!”
It appeared that the right hindwing had been damaged. So, I didn’t think she had recently emerged from her pupa. Imperial moths live only a week or two, for the sole purpose of mating and laying eggs. Their mouth parts have been reduced, preventing them from feeding. Neither the male nor the female takes sustenance as an adult.
To make the Imperial moth more comfortable during her overnight accommodations, I added some greenery from the garden. No, not for the purpose of providing food. I just thought she would feel more at home, while being held captive, until she could return to her natural habitat. Incidentally, people also benefit, psychologically, when we’re in the presence of living plants.
There was a surprise the next morning. A dozen eggs had fallen under the greens to the bottom of the bowl. So, dutiful subject that I am, I will place them on the leaves of an appropriate tree.
What fun! (Behemoth or Beshemoth?)
(***Update***: Over the past week or so, I’ve noticed a few more Imperial moths flying through the yard. Two of them were eagerly followed by hungry birds, but I didn’t see the birds catch them. 8/3/2020).
Here are some of the eggs.
They Hatched!
By yesterday morning (7/25), about 2/3 of the dozen eggs had hatched. That was unexpected! So, I took a few leaves from the red maple tree (Acer rubrum) by the mailbox and placed them in the bowl. This morning, it was clear that they had begun eating. The edges of the leaves were nibbled (photo, right), and tiny dark feces fell to the bottom.
(***Update***: When I read that Imperial moths can be raised in captivity, I decided to keep the eggs. I assume that Mommy Moth laid the rest of her clutch after I’d released her. 8/4/2020)
The remaining eggs hatched last night, and those caterpillars were visibly smaller, but only slightly so, than their older siblings. I brought them to the kitchen table to photograph them. If they weren’t eating (the maple leaf, that is), they headed toward the brightly lit patio door, requiring persistent redirection. This reminded me of sea turtle hatchlings scurrying instinctively toward the water.
First Silk For the Imperial Moth
I gathered all but a few of the caterpillars, placing them and a maple leaf in a bag for release. At the maple tree, I placed each one on a leaf, until it “stuck”.
Newly hatched larvae attach themselves to the leaf with a fine silk thread, apparently not just during molting. When I picked up the tiny caterpillars to place them on the leaves, I could feel the resistance of an invisible thread. Smart little caterpillars.
White Hairs
Something else I noticed concerned those hairs on the caterpillar. All caterpillars had the black scoli and many white hairs. Most of those hairs seemed to be somewhat irregularly placed on the caterpillar, although others were extensions of the scoli. And, coincidentally, the maple leaves had fine white trichomes (extensions of the epidermis) on the back of the leaf, mostly along the main veins. The trichomes and many of the hairs on the larvae looked exactly alike.
It looked as though they might have picked up some of those trichomes, because some caterpillars had several hairs around their heads, and others had very few. Most hairs on the segments appeared to have been randomly placed and at odd angles to each other.
One day old. Ruler marks are 1/16″ apart.
Two days old.
Caterpillars and trichomes on maple leaf.
***Update***: The following section was added 9/14/2020.
New Food For the Imperial Moth
This caterpillar has been feeding on crape myrtle. No hairs!
For a few days, I added different types of leaves to see if the caterpillars demonstrated a preference. They were not interested in loropetalum, oak, holly, or passiflora. They did, however, love the crape myrtle—more than they liked the native maple. When offered a buffet of several kinds of freshly picked leaves, including maple, the caterpillars ate only the crape myrtle. How perplexing that the caterpillars preferred this non-native tree (Lagerstroemia indica)! And, surprisingly, they lost all their white hairs (photo, above) after feeding on crape myrtle for a few days.
To attract more wildlife to your property, plant a large number of native plants. As we’ve seen with this imperial moth, our native insects and birds will feed on some non-natives as well. But the best bet is to plant more natives than exotic species of plants. Choose plants that flower at various times of the year to attract more species of insects and animals. And plant them in multiples; a single specimen plant might not get the attention from a female insect looking for a nursery to host her young. Contact your local native plant society for plant species recommendations.
Keep in mind that lawn chemicals and insecticides could kill imperial moths while they’re pupating in the ground.
I released the caterpillars to a 6′ crape myrtle. This plant had volunteered in the front garden from seed and was transplanted into a 5-gallon pot. The larvae regrew those fine white hairs and now all caterpillars are thriving in their new home!
Imperial moth caterpillar on crape myrtle in the Charlotte garden.
In 2007, the U.S. Senate passed a bill designating one week in June as National Pollinator Week. This legislation recognizes the importance of pollinators, including bees and butterflies, in our food supply and in the health of all ecosystems.
Every third bite of food we consume is directly attributable to pollinators. The global economic value is worth between $300 billion and $600 billion per year. Around 85% of all flowering plants are pollinated by insects, ensuring the regeneration of forests and fields as well as high yielding edible crops.
Our morning coffee beans are primarily self-pollinated, depending on crop species. Introducing bees, however, can increase the yields and lower costs of production.
In tropical regions of South America, Africa, Indonesia, and, more recently Australia, a tiny midge is responsible for pollinating cacao trees, bringing us chocolate. Chocolate contributes, incredibly, $100 billion annually to the global economy.
In the southern hemisphere, pollinator awareness programs take place in November. The Australian Government’s Department of the Environment recognizes November 8-15 as their pollinator week for 2020. Many countries throughout the world observe this initiative, and local organizations sponsor programs to raise awareness.
An outdoor project can be an enjoyable and healthy way to use our time. Having the children participate will teach them valuable skills they will carry with them wherever they live.
And, if there’s one thing we could use more of, it’snature.
A bee house.
What Bees and Butterflies Need
All living creatures need food and water, shelter, and a place to raise their young. By adapting the way we maintain the property around our homes, we can achieve both an attractive landscape and one that fosters populations of wild creatures. Currently, 40% of the insect pollinator species are at risk of extinction. A few of us can make a small difference in our neighborhood; millions of us can really shake it up!
Houses—entire communities—generally have been built after felling all the native trees, bulldozing the rest, and covering the ground with a high maintenance lawn. Streams were diverted to concrete pipes underground, taking habitat from frogs, salamanders, and turtles. Where this tradition is changing, developers are roping off and protecting native stands of trees and understory species.
Maybe the builder spotted in a fast growing silver maple, a row of clipped hollies along the foundation, and a couple of forsythias in the back. Well, that won’t do much for all the bees and butterflies, or for the hummingbirds, bats, moths, and beetles that pollinate our crops and wild plants. And right there, in this yard and in that yard, lie the broken links in the food chain. Our monocultured and unnaturally manicured properties are sold as low maintenance, but there’s little life there.
The Missing Elements
We concentrate instead on creating an “indoor oasis”, untroubled that the quiet stillness outside the door is not what Mother Nature had intended. No birds chirping or warbling…no cicadas or katydids…no lizards leaping for their dinner…nowhere for the dragonfly to land.
Yes, we need more nature in our lives. By cultivating a relationship with the natural world, there’s more than just a pretty sight beyond the living room windows. There’s life. Birds will continue to follow million-year-old migration paths. Mason bees and swallowtail butterflies will secure homes for their young. And there will be less talk of scarcity.
Need to feel better? Try gardening!
1. A Garden of Annuals for Bees and Butterflies
Bumble bees in the marigolds.
Maybe this week’s goal is to carve out a section of the big lawn in the sunny back yard, and plant a flower garden. Mid summer isn’t too late for annuals, either from seeds or from transplants. Or, for now, consider how your family can use the property in the future. It’s always a good time to decrease the amount of lawn space we have to mow, fertilize, and treat for insects and diseases.
Be sure to plant significant drifts of flowers instead of a dot of zinnias here and a couple of marigolds over there. Large blocks of similar colors are more likely to get attention from pollinators. If your space is limited, though, there are some options. Sunny windowbox gardens and pots filled with bright colorful flowers will generate interest from the pollinators. Or perhaps there’s room for hanging baskets.
Each pollinator has its own preferences. Hummingbirds are attracted to the color red, but bees can’t see it. Bees are initially attracted to blue, yellow, and white, and then will visit a red flower nearby. Hummingbirds can feed from long tubular flowers, but hover flies need short little flowers.
At night, moths can detect white or pale colored sweet-smelling flowers that are open at that time. Almond flowers are pollinated primarily by honey bees, and tomatoes by bumble bees. Butterflies are especially interested in landing platforms, such as those found on plants with wide, flat flowers.
What Is An Annual?
An annual grows from a seed that germinates, generally, in spring or summer. It grows for several weeks to a few months, matures, and then begins to flower. Many species of annuals bloom all summer, until frost ends their lives in autumn, roots and all. But, by then, the plant will have set seed, with help from the local pollinators. An annual completes its life cycle within one growing season.
Those seeds will remain dormant over the winter, protected by their seed coats. With favorable weather conditions next spring, some of the seeds will germinate. Many, however, will be consumed by small mammals, birds, and insects.
What Do Pollinators Do?
Bumble bees on passion flower vine. Arrangement of flower parts facilitates pollination.
Bees and butterflies, and other pollinators, transfer pollen grains from the male anthers of a flower to the stigma, the female part of a flower. Sometimes male and female flowers grow in separate flowers on the same plant (that’s a monoecious plant). And other plants have either all male or all female flowers (dioecious plants). Some have both male and female reproductive elements within each flower (perfect flowers).
Pollinators don’t do this intentionally. Instead, their goal is to collect the flowers’ pollen and nectar. They inadvertently pick up the pollen on their hairs or wings, after being lured in by the flowers and the sweet nectar. Then the pollinators transfer pollen from flower to flower, from plant to plant, as they forage. Thus, they enable fertilization of the ovules, germ cells in the ovary of the female flower.
The male and the female parents must be the same species in order for their chromosomes to be compatible. However, interspecific and intergeneric hybrids sometimes do occur among closely related individuals.
The end result is a ripe fruit with viable seeds. That could be a zinnia’s seedpod, for example, or a blueberry, a peach, or a tulip poplar’s samara.
Cross Pollination
Ah, the genius of nature. Pollen grains and stigmas in many species mature at different times, preventing self-pollination.
Moving pollen among different plants of the same species permits cross-pollination, resulting in stronger genetics and, potentially, a better future for the species. Apple trees and blueberries are two crops that benefit from cross-pollination.
Single? Double? Triple?
Catharanthus ‘Soiree Double Pink’, an annual vinca. Extra petals replace reproductive parts.
Flowers with single rows of petals usually have more pollen and nectaries than those with a more complicated petal structure. Plant breeders all over the world have brought to market thousands of these kinds of fluffy triple-flowered hybrids, and they are beautiful. That’s fine, for aesthetics.
But, for bees and butterflies, there’s less treasure for them in flowers filled with petals. Reproductive structures that produce nectar and pollen are often reduced and replaced with additional petals (photo, above). Collecting pollen or nectar from these packed doubles is less efficient, and requires extra visits to gather sufficient quantities. So, pollinators will look for more desirable plants elsewhere, to conserve energy, and avoid such anomalies of nature.
When choosing the varieties for your annual garden, keep these details in mind. Gardens loaded with heavy producers of nectar and pollen (in other words, single flowers) will better serve the pollinators that visit them.
Sunflowers
Many varieties of recent sunflower introductions have been hybridized to grow flowers with very little or no viable pollen at all. When looking through catalogs, make note of the ones called “pollenless”. These varieties will make less of a mess on the credenza and won’t cause you to sneeze. But they have little to offer bees and butterflies.
Pollenless sunflowers won’t develop mature seeds filled with sustenance for birds and other animals. If pollinators and full seedpods are what you want, ask the seed supplier for varieties that make edible seeds, not just edible flowers.
These varieties of sunflowers will attract pollinators and make edible seeds: ‘Big Smile’, ‘Black Peredovik’, ‘Chocolate’, ‘Giganteus’, ‘Hopi Black Dye’, and ‘Kong Hybrid’. Also, ‘Mammoth Grey Stripe’, ‘Mammoth Russian’, ‘Paul Bunyan’, ‘Royal’, ‘Royal Hybrid 1121’, ‘Sunzilla’, ‘Super Snack’, and ‘Titan’.
Sunflowers have a row of showy ray florets surrounding the disc florets. Disc florets open slowly over time, from the outer edge to the center, ensuring many visits from different pollinators.
The Asteraceae family is perhaps the largest, with 1900 genera and over 32,000 species. (The orchid family is its main rival, but no one knows exactly how many species are in either family.) Members of this extended family include sunflowers, dianthus, lettuce, coreopsis, marigold, zinnia, coneflower, gerbera daisy, chrysanthemum, and shasta daisy.
Where to Plant?
Thin peduncle (flower stalk) under summer squash flower indicates a male flower. A female flower has a rounded peduncle.
A large bed of color around the patio or the mailbox, a free-standing raised bed, and a border close to the vegetable garden are just some of the possibilities. Farmers often include wide bands of wildflowers alongside their fields of crops for better pollination and heavier yields.
One plant that attracts all sorts of pollinators is ‘African blue’ basil. This is a sterile herb—unable to set seed—so it flowers constantly. Other varieties of sweet or flavored basils customarily are used in the kitchen. Plant an ‘African blue’ basil in early summer, close to tomatoes, peppers, and squash to encourage bees to visit the veggies. And let it flower.
Check with local garden centers to see what they have available. Ask for help choosing annuals—seeds or transplants—that attract pollinators.
Before you do any digging, ask your municipality (call 8-1-1) to mark underground utilities. Whether you’ll be tilling the area or digging it by hand, you’ll certainly want to avoid damaging any of those lines.
Locate the garden where a source of water is easily accessible. New transplants and young seedlings will need consistent moisture until they’re established. During summer drought, water the bed thoroughly every week or so.
Sun or Shade?
Fuchsia flowers.
Find an area that gets full sun if you want lots of flowers. Full sun is at least 6 hours, but annuals will positively thrive in more sun than that. Summer annuals blooming heavily in sun will attract the most pollinators.
But several species prefer shade, such as impatiens. The ‘Imara’ impatiens, resistant to impatiens downy mildew, provides a carpet of color under the trees and shrubs. This plant attracts bees and butterflies, and also hummingbirds.
Where summers aren’t too hot, the fuchsia baskets (photo, above) will entice the hummingbirds to visit every day, like clockwork. This plant does well in dappled shade or early morning sun. And it likes moist soil. As the temperatures climb and fuchsia fails, hummingbirds will flock to the single petunias and salvias, which need lots of sun. They also visit herbs in bloom, including basil and lavender.
How Big Is Big?
Hummingbird.
With proper soil preparation and regular maintenance, a plot that measures 10′ x 6′ can become a magnet for pollinating insects. The flowers will buzz with activity from perhaps dozens of species of bees and butterflies, and moths and hummingbirds, too.
This country is home to over 4,000 species of bees alone! More than 20,000 species live around the globe. Some live in colonies, and many are solitary creatures. Interestingly, the honey bee is not native to the United States. It was brought by European settlers hundreds of years ago and proliferated throughout the country.
To increase the activity and the number of pollinating species lured in, make the bed even larger. And include more variety in the plants selected. Use masses of the same plant, and repeat elsewhere in the garden, if you want. Planting larger blocks of a particular color or flower type will attract more pollinators than scattering them about.
If this is your first gardening effort, keep the garden a manageable size so you’re not overwhelmed. There will be maintenance involved! Weeds, no doubt, will have to be pulled. And your garden will need fertilizer a few times through the growing season for the best results. An inch or two of mulch will help cool the soil, retain moisture, and restrain weeds. You can always expand the area as you gain confidence in your skills.
Container Gardens
Even in a very limited space, some of the local bees and butterflies will find the lovely combination pots on your balcony or the patio. Use bright colors, and have your camera ready—for the flowers and their visitors. Once they find their preferred flowers, pollinators will come back day after day.
Remove seedpods to encourage more flowers to develop, although finches and other birds will feed on seeds remaining on stalks late in the season. Fertilize regularly to keep the plants in prime condition. Plants in containers might need daily watering.
Added Benefits
Vegetables and Fruits
Blueberry flowers.
Insects are on a constant lookout for sources of pollen and nectar. You might discover your fruit trees, blueberries, and vegetable crops yielding heavier harvests since installing a flower garden.
Edible crops and plants growing naturally in or around your property will benefit from complete pollination because of the larger populations of pollinators. Include plants whose flowers attract pollinators early and late in the growing season, as well as during the summer months.
Bumble bee visiting broccoli flowers.
Flowers on mustard greens. This edible plant readily self-seeds.
Red Russian kale in bud.
I grow many kinds of greens (photos, above) in the cool seasons. Before they’re replaced with summer crops, I allow them to go to flower in late winter to early spring. Most are biennials in the Brassicaceae family, including kale, collards, broccoli, arugula, and mustard greens. Although they don’t require pollination for a harvest, the cruciferous flowers provide pollen and nectar for bees, braconid wasps, hover flies, and other pollinators at the time of year when little else is available.
Pansies and violas provide sustenance for bees that emerge on pleasant winter days. These colorful cold-tolerant biennials grow in garden beds and in containers.
Braconid Wasps
Braconid wasp.
The tiny non-stinging braconid wasps are hardly noticeable, but they help keep populations of live-bearing aphids in check. A female braconid wasp deposits an egg in or on an aphid. After hatching, the wasp larva consumes the tissues, killing the aphid. One braconid wasp can parasitize 200 aphids in her brief lifetime. Adults emerge to mate, and a new generation of females will begin hunting aphids.
Pollen is an important food source for the braconid wasps, which will feed on some aphids as well. So, even these tiny insects help pollinate plants.
Photo at right shows a wasp about to deposit some eggs. White aphids have been parasitized, and the others are alive. I’ve often seen leaves with a hundred aphid mummies (the aphid’s empty exoskeleton) attached, with no living aphids.
Planting a wide variety of flowers helps these beneficial insects. Self sustaining populations of beneficials contribute to the overall health of your garden, reducing or eliminating the need for pesticides.
For the Birds
Let’s not forget about the birds! Although most species, other than hummingbirds, don’t play a major role in pollinating plants, songbirds certainly have a place in any natural ecosystem. We can play an important part, in our own yards, by maintaining an environment that fosters healthy populations of native animals.
The tiny ruby-crowned kinglet at a winter feeder.
The numbers of many species of birds are declining, due primarily to human interference. We’ve removed their habitat in favor of expansive lawns and non-native trees and shrubs. And we’ve killed off their food sources by spraying pesticides every time a “bug” shows up. Can we please adopt a new attitude?
After all, birds help by consuming huge numbers of insect pests that otherwise could destroy crops or damage potted plants. Birds and bats keep mosquitoes and moths in check. More insects in the garden will support more avian activity.
Restoring healthy populations of all native animals and insects will return balance to the ecosystem. Sometimes, though, the songbirds fall prey to foxes, snakes, or hawks. Predator and prey: yes, folks, that’s how it works.
There are many benefits to living in modern society, but loss of habitat for wild creatures is not one of them. Letting nature be is a crucial step in re-establishing native populations and preventing extinctions.
Let ‘Em Seed About
Finches, sparrows, and chickadees feast on seeds that develop after the flowers fade. So, don’t be too hasty to deadhead the last round of flowers. Allow them to remain in place through the fall and winter, so the birds have another food source available when they need it. Birds will soon recognize your property as a wellspring of year-round sustenance.
Bright yellow and black American goldfinches are fond of zinnias, cosmos, salvias, and asters that have gone to seed. In late summer and autumn, the finches, northern cardinals, thrashers, blue jays, and other animals eagerly consume seeds atop the black-eyed Susans and tall sunflowers. And you might notice plants germinating next spring from seeds the birds overlooked.
Water
Include a source of clean water for the birds. A birdbath in the garden is fine, or you could keep a large plant saucer on the deck. Change the water frequently to prevent mosquito wrigglers from reaching adulthood.
The bees and butterflies also will appreciate a small saucer of water on a hot summer day. Place a flat rock island in the water for safe sipping. A mud puddle, just a bare patch of wet sandy clay, provides moisture and minerals for butterflies.
Cut Flowers
Another benefit of growing a garden of annuals is the almost endless supply of cut flowers for indoor arrangements. Include plans to expand the garden next year, to keep the pollinators happy, too. Check with your agricultural extension service to see which flowers last longest in a vase.
Try Some Of These For the Bees and Butterflies
Ageratum, alyssum, bachelor’s button, cleome, cosmos, fuchsia (hummingbirds), herbs, impatiens, lantana, marigold, and pentas. Rudbeckia (annual and perennial varieties of black-eyed Susan), salvia (annual and perennial types, a hummingbird favorite), some of the sunflowers, tithonia, verbena, and zinnia.
Page 1: National Pollinator Week, June 22-28, 2020, What Pollinators Need (The Missing Elements), and A Garden of Annuals for Bees and Butterflies (What Is An Annual?, What Do Pollinators Do?, Cross Pollination, Single-Double-Triple?, Sunflowers, Where To Plant?, Sun or Shade?, How Big Is Big?, Added Benefits, Vegetables and Fruits, Braconid Wasps, For the Birds, Cut Flowers)
Page 2: Perennial Favorites For Bees and Butterflies, Lavender, Herbs, Brush Piles, Go Native, A Comprehensive Garden Plan (Dream, Plan, and Implement, On the Right Path, Stone, Diversify, Some Native Woody Plants, Asking for Help, Dig In!, Small Is Beautiful), and Links
Whose heart is not warmed by the sight of brilliant red cardinals feasting at backyard feeders? Add a fresh snowfall and the birds’ familiar calls as they defend their territory, and you’ve got some delightful moments on a cold winter day. I almost wrote a “dreary winter day”, but living close to nature precludes this dismal perception; every day is a lovely day.
This commonly seen favorite songbird normally remains in the area, both winter and summer, as long as food is plentiful. Now doesn’t that just lift your spirits!
A male northern cardinal.
Where Cardinals Live
Other species of cardinals live in Central and South America, and there are many subspecies within their range. This article is about the northern cardinal, Cardinalis cardinalis, whose name derives from the red vestments worn by Catholic cardinals.
Cardinals are abundant throughout most of the United States: in the area from the Atlantic coast west to eastern Montana and eastern New Mexico, including all of Texas and parts of the deep southwest. They also live in Mexico, but not commonly in higher elevations.
Fortunately, the cardinal’s population has remained stable while the numbers of many other songbirds have decreased dramatically. Some songbirds no longer live in areas where they used to be abundant.
Female and male cardinals.
The cardinal’s range, in fact, has expanded northward, to include areas in Canada north and east of the Great Lakes. Although the cardinal has been seen in Canada for many years, it’s only since about 1980 that proof of nesting activity has taken place there. The prevalence of well-stocked feeders is considered the primary explanation for this expansion.
Border regions close to their usual ranges see cardinals settling into those areas. They’re not yet commonly found in those border regions, but populations are increasing.
Habitat
Part of the cardinal’s success lies in the species’ adaptability to various environments. They reside in woodlands, shrubby thickets, swamps, and forest edges and clearings. Northern cardinals in the desert southwest live near streams and washes, in tall brushy growth and mesquite groves.
City parks and suburban residential gardens often host these beautiful birds, as long as it’s fairly quiet. They retreat to the security of thick undergrowth if disturbed but will return soon afterward. Cardinals are usually the first to arrive and the last to leave the backyard bird feeders. When I rise, before it’s light, inevitably it is the cardinal that comes first to the feeder, unless the opossum is having a late night out.
Northern cardinal and wren on back fence.
Plant a Garden for the Birds
You can encourage birds and other wildlife to make your property their home. Contact the local Audubon Society or other birding experts and find out which plants attract birds. One option is to have a landscape plan drawn up, incorporating features that will bring in the wildlife.
The garden depicted in the blueprint below shows the hardscape for a water garden I planted in the 1990’s: paths, stonework, pond, footbridges, and the underground wiring and plumbing. This new garden replaced all the lawn on the slope with a series of 5 waterfalls and a 35′ pond, stone steps, and layered plantings all around. Over time, my clients asked me to expand the gardens and remove more lawn, incorporating plants that offered berries, seeds, perches, and protection for birds.
The year-round availability of water attracted all sorts of wildlife, including dragonflies, frogs and toads, turtles, songbirds and birds of prey, and snakes. Occasionally, the owners added inexpensive feeder goldfish, after the great blue herons had picked off the ones that couldn’t hide fast enough.
Plant a lush landscape—less grass to mow!—that provides food, water, shelter, and nesting options. Include trees (small ones if your space is limited), evergreen and deciduous shrubs, and flowers that produce edible seeds or berries. Trees planted where they can shade the house and windows from hot afternoon sun will lower your energy bills.
Native Plants
Native plant species attract insects and offer food for birds and much of the rest of the food chain. Caterpillars will eat the leaves, and that’s a good thing. Resist the temptation to spray the “bugs”, which will feed many kinds of birds, lizards, and frogs. Although adult cardinals consume primarily seeds and fruits, they feed mostly insects to their nestlings. Pesticides will harm not only the insects but also the birds and other animals that feed on them.
Group together several trees and shrubs in the landscape. Birds prefer density of growth rather than a tree here and a couple of shrubs over there. If they can quickly retreat to dense undergrowth, they’ll feel more secure in your garden.
Walk through a local botanical garden and note the native species you might be able to use in your garden. Observe how the taller species are underplanted with masses of shrubs and perennials, giving a layered and full appearance. Keep these principles in mind when landscaping your property.
State Bird
This beloved bird has achieved state bird status in Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, North Carolina (Mother’s favorite!), Ohio, Virginia, and West Virginia. In some areas, they’re called “redbirds”.
Headings
Page 1: Welcome the Northern Cardinals, Where Cardinals Live, Habitat, Plant a Garden for the Birds (Native Plants), and State Bird
Page 2: The Cardinal’s Diet (The Problem with Seed Husks), Live Cam (links), The Yellow Northern Cardinal, Water, Growing Sunflowers, Nesting Cardinals (Sexual Dimorphism, Courtship, Longevity, The Nest and Eggs), Predators, and Bird Watching
At the Hendersonville Garden Jubilee in May, I bought a small Passiflora vine as a gesture of support for Bee City USA. One third of the food we eat and 80% to 90% of all flowering plants rely on pollinators to set fruit and, therefore, to reproduce. Bees are efficient pollinators, but other insects and animals, including butterflies, beetles, moths, bats, and hummingbirds, also provide this service. This article concentrates on attracting the gulf fritillary butterfly to your garden.
Bumble bees love this passionflower vine (Passiflora).
Passiflora incarnata
Planting the passionflower vine had to be delayed until late summer, after the siding replacement had been completed. And then the plant took off!
Passionflower vine (Passiflora incarnata), also called maypop, is the primary food source for larvae of the beautiful gulf fritillary butterfly. This herbaceous perennial is native to the southeastern quadrant of the U.S., in USDA zones 5 to 9. A substantial vine, growing to 20′ in length, it blooms from late spring to late summer. Its pale purple 3″ flowers yield kiwi-size yellow-orange fruits from which you can make jams and jellies, although I haven’t tried it.
Other species of Passiflora can host larval fritillary populations, but some are toxic and will kill the caterpillars. So, choose carefully! Usually, the female senses chemicals with her antennae and determines suitability of a particular plant for oviposition (depositing the eggs).
Passionflower vines also host the variegated fritillary, the Mexican fritillary, the Julia butterfly, and the zebra longwing. I was hopeful but not overly optimistic that the caterpillars would show up this late in the season. But I have since learned that caterpillar activity of the gulf fritillary ordinarily takes place in late summer.
Caterpillar of gulf fritillary butterfly.
If You Plant It, They Will Come
It wasn’t long before the vine had wrapped its tendrils around the coleus and the Salvia coccinea planted only 2′ away.
I saw the bright orange butterflies a few times this summer, flying around the gardens. But now they visited the vine almost every day to lay eggs, and then the nearby hanging basket of flowers to sip nectar. Adults feed only on nectar, including flowers of lantana, zinnia, Buddleia (butterfly bush), salvia, and Liatris.
Hanging basket with zinnias and calibrachoa.
Soon, holes appeared in the leaves…already?…and then bigger holes. Success! Long gone are the days when I would have implemented measures to “remedy” this behavior.
Close inspection revealed several orange caterpillars with purplish stripes and black bristly projections. Then more appeared, wave after wave, as the older ones matured and crawled away to pupate. I would not have thought that a plant this small could sustain more than 40 caterpillars over a few short months. But it did, although some chrysalises have succumbed to a fungal disease. Recently I noticed more small caterpillars, even though we’ve already had a light frost.
Thank goodness, I thought, because this garden isn’t large enough for this vigorous vine. These caterpillars and their voracious appetites will help keep this young plant in bounds. The plan is to dig it up and to transplant it to a bigger garden, when I move. I’ll remove all that I see, or they will take over the neighbors’ gardens as well.
Life Cycle of the Gulf Fritillary Butterfly
Butterfly egg attached to tendril of the vine.
Gulf fritillaries (Agraulis vanillae) are commonly found in open sunny habitat, grasslands, woodlands, fields, and in gardens. These subtropical butterflies range from Texas to Florida and migrate north from Missouri to Delaware. This butterfly is also found in Central America and in Hawaii.
The gulf fritillary and the zebra butterflies belong to a group called the longwings (Heliconiinae). Larvae of both species feed on passionflower vines. Although the gulf fritillary resembles other fritillaries, it is, in fact one of the longwings. Other fritillary larvae (meadow and great spangled) feed on wild violets.
Predators avoid longwing butterflies due to several odorous chemicals produced in abdominal glands. Passionflowers contain poisons (alkaloids, cyanogenic glycosides), which are picked up by the caterpillars. These chemicals make them distasteful to birds and other animals, but less so in the gulf fritillary.
After mating and consuming protein-rich pollen for several days, the female butterflies lay eggs on passionflower vines. This caterpillar prefers mature foliage, if it is plentiful, leaving other butterfly caterpillars to feed on the young leaves at the tips. I’ve read conflicting information, which states their preference for the young growth tips of the vines. There, the plant doesn’t produce nectaries on its foliage, which attract ants that defend the plant from butterflies and larvae.
Adults measure about 2 1/2″ to 3 1/2″ wide, with females being larger and a bit darker than the males. Females also have more pronounced markings, and both have white spots on the undersides of their wings.
Gulf fritillary butterfly on lantana.
Eggs and Larvae
Eggs are yellow when first laid. They hatch in 3 to 8 days, depending on temperature.
The caterpillar molts 4 or 5 times over the next 11 to 20 days, and then crawls to a suitable point of attachment for its chrysalis. For 5 to 12 days, according to the websites I read, the caterpillar pupates. But the chrysalis by the front door (below, right) has been hanging around for at least 2 weeks. It is alive; it reacts when I nudge it. A small sign just under the doorbell, where the pupa resides, requests “Please Do Not Disturb.”
Typical J-shaped caterpillar about to form chrysalis.
Fully formed chrysalis.
The small chrysalis, at only 1 1/8″ in length, could easily be mistaken for leafy debris. But hanging on the door trim or on the shutters, it becomes conspicuous. In fact, the first chrysalis I saw, also on the door trim, had been partially eaten, probably by a resident lizard. Although I’m tempted to move them to the shrubs to “save” them, it’s better to let nature decide. If this were a rare species, I might think differently. (***Update***: Well, someone dined on this chrysalis, too! 11/2019.)
Adults typically live for a few to several weeks in warm weather, and longer in cooler temperatures. This butterfly prefers warmer regions, and dies when it gets close to 20°F. The gulf fritillary butterfly can produce several generations per year in warm winter zones.
Typical Butterfly Life Cycle
The typical life cycle of a butterfly:
starts as an egg,
which hatches into a caterpillar (the larval stage),
which pupates in the chrysalis (the pupal stage), undergoing metamorphosis,
and then emerges as the adult butterfly.
The gulf fritillary overwinters in cooler zones as adults. Do them a big favor and build a brush pile where they can find shelter in cold and inclement weather. Simply stack piles of twigs, branches, straw, and weeds, and let fallen leaves blow in. Birds, insects, and other creatures will appreciate this kind gesture. And you’ll get some compost out of it.
I give the results of this small experiment Four Stars, an A+. As I mentioned earlier, I was pleasantly surprised by how readily the butterflies found the passionflower vine, and by the number of caterpillars feeding from it. If you’ve been considering what to plant to attract pollinators or pretty butterflies, you won’t go wrong with this one. Just give it some space!
What remains of the Passiflora. Good job, caterpillars!
There’s been considerable excitement, lately, around the old basil plants on the deck. Flashy yellow American goldfinches have been flitting around the plants, landing near the tops of 4′ tall stems.
Normally, I would have cut the stems to prevent flowering, but the herb has had basil downy mildew. So I just let it go, curious to see who would show up. What a pleasant surprise to see the goldfinches move in for a feast of seeds!
Before the seedpods ripened, though, ruby-throated hummingbirds came for the white flowers’ sweet nectar. Almost like clockwork, these tiny marvels stopped by for their daily visits late in the afternoon.
Recently, I moved the big pot of basil to a sunnier place less than 10′ away. But the hummingbirds continued looking for the flowers in the old location. They hovered for a few seconds, and then flew away. The birds repeated this pattern for a few days until they rediscovered their treasure.
Memories From Childhood
Sparrows.
We’ve been feeding birds all our lives, through the generations. I vividly remember my grandmother feeding the sparrows outside her kitchen door, and can recall the fevered chirps as they jockeyed for position and pleaded for more.
When my parents were dating, my mother’s green parrot bit right through my father’s fingernail.
Growing up, we always had a caged canary singing in the kitchen. And his name was always Tammy.
Before and after our own children were born, we kept various tiny chirpy finches, pairs of parakeets, and, for 20 years, a cockatiel named Narcissus. Narcissus was a rescue, and like my mother’s parrot 80 years ago, he never really warmed up to anyone else. For me, though—kisses, conversations, and a few bars of “We’re In the Army Now”. He sat on my shoulder, chuckling in my ear, between flights to the window for a peek outside.
Yes, we have an affinity for birds. Whether it’s bread crumbs, suet, pieces of fruit, peanut butter/seed pinecones, or bird seed from a bag…and water…our birds can count on us.
To The Rescue!
While growing up in Oradell, New Jersey, I often took in nestlings that fell from the neighbors’ trees. First I tried placing them back into their nests. At times there was nothing I could do; they were beyond help. And who knows? Maybe the parents pushed small or sickly birds out of the nests so they could concentrate on raising the rest of the brood.
Although not all the rescued chicks survived, I did my best to raise them to independence. Today, there are several organizations nationwide which will take orphaned animals.
Cedar Waxwings
Cedar waxwing.
One year, I raised a beautiful cedar waxwing, which returned year after year, coming much closer than the rest of the flock. They fed on insects and berries, timing their migratory visits to coincide with the harvests.
Decades later, I occasionally witnessed a rare moment in the Rockville, Maryland back yard. A flock of perhaps 50 cedar waxwings gathered around and hovered over the small goldfish pond, chattering and dipping their beaks into the water. After only a few minutes of this hasty business, they were gone, off to warmer climes!
If I hadn’t peered out the kitchen window at just the right time, I would have missed it. We lived in that house for about 30 years, but I saw this activity only 3 or 4 times.
American Goldfinches
Migrations
The American goldfinch (Spinus tristus) spends its summer breeding season from North Carolina to Washington state, and north to parts of Canada. Its winter range shifts farther south, across the United States, except for the coldest regions of the northern states, and to parts of Mexico.
Populations will remain near stocked feeders in northern parts of their range if temperatures are above 0°F. Many migratory birds will hang around for the winter, and not head for warmer habitats, if food is readily and consistently available.
This sociable little finch travels in flocks, often in association with pine siskins and common redpolls. Peak migration seasons are mid-fall and early spring.
Its flight pattern is an undulating wave. The bird flaps its wings a few times, and then glides. It often chirps during flight while it flaps its wings, and is silent when gliding.
The American goldfinch is the state bird in New Jersey, Iowa, and Washington.
Habitat
American goldfinches are common in weedy fields, meadows, floodplains, and in open woods. They’re found among shrubbery, along roadsides, and around suburban residential properties. All season, they seek semi-open areas, trees, and dense evergreens for shelter and nesting.
The National Audubon Society reports that songbird populations are declining in most areas around the country. Habitat loss, the use of harsh chemicals, exotics displacing native species…these are some of the factors that take their toll. One practice that would help all seed-eaters is simply letting plants remain in the garden after they’ve gone to seed.
Median Strips
When traveling several hundred miles north a couple of months ago, I noticed that miles and miles of the median strips, in Virginia and Pennsylvania, had been allowed to go “natural”. There were mature stands of wild “weeds” including milkweed, Queen Anne’s lace (wild carrot), goldenrod, ironweed, chicory, black-eyed Susan, grasses, and various asters. And, there were lots of moths and butterflies, including monarchs, and American goldfinches, of course, feeding on the seeds.
It was quite a shock to see this about-face in management style. Where mowers and machines previously had kept the near-sterile ground cover at a mere inch or two, these long stretches boasted complex systems of flowers and seedheads, saplings, and greenery in various stages of development...in other words, life!
Although this style of landscaping won’t appeal to everyone, I was happy to see nature catch a break. Maybe it’s time to adopt a new attitude…one that takes into consideration all organisms within an ecological system, seen and unseen. It’s time to look beyond aestheticism, and incorporate principles of sustainability if we’re ever to see a decline in population loss and extinction.
Food Sources
Perennials
A smorgasbord for goldfinches: pink coneflower, orange sunflower, blue globe thistle, white yarrow.
American goldfinches forage in flocks, except while breeding. They prefer habitats we consider weedy, feeding on many plants in the Asteraceae family, or the composites. That includes native perennials such as:
globe thistle (Echinops)
flodman’s thistle (Cirsium flodmanii)
field thistle (C. discolor)
cobweb thistle (C. occidentale)
wayleaf thistle (C. undulatum). Thistle is their first choice. Check with your cooperative extension service to see if any of these native American species are considered invasive in your region.
goldenrod (Solidago)
ragweed (Ambrosia). This one, not goldenrod, causes late season hay fever.
purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
New England asters (Symphiotrichum [formerly Aster] novae-angliae)
cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum)
Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium, formerly Eupatorium)
yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp.)
Thistle and European goldfinches.
More Perennials
bee balm (Monarda)
anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
lemon balm (Melissa officinalis). A patch of lemon balm grew outside the kitchen window when I lived in Maryland. In late summer, I let it go to seed for the American goldfinch. These agile acrobats grasped the 2′ stems, bobbing up and down while feeding on the seeds. American goldfinches apparently enjoy several plants in this family (Lamiaceae)—the balms, hyssop, basil, catnip, sage…
Goldfinches also feed on young twig bark, maple sap, and tree leaf buds.
Deadheading your plants—removing the aging seedpods—results in a tidier garden, but one that is devoid of goldfinches. So, if you enjoy watching these sprightly birds, allow at least some of your plants to go to seed. Other insects and animals also will benefit from a more casual approach to gardening.
A flock of goldfinches feeding on salvia seeds.
Annuals
Zinnia angustifolia, the Star series.
Annuals that goldfinches feed on include zinnia, cosmos, daisies, salvia, marigold, poppies, and black-oil sunflowers. The American goldfinches are granivores, feeding almost exclusively on seeds. Consumption of insects is more accidental than it is intentional.
If you have an abundance of zinnia, cosmos, or sunflower seedheads, but prefer cleaning up the garden before planting the autumn pansies and violas, consider harvesting them after the seeds ripen. Save them in a cool dry place, where mice can’t reach them, for the autumn and winter feeders.
But don’t wait too long to first offer the seeds. You want to invite American goldfinches to stay before they migrate from the area. And, once you start, continue feeding them through winter.
Nyjer (Guizotia abyssinia, an herb of Ethiopian origin) and black oil sunflower seeds can be purchased from garden centers, hardware stores, warehouse clubs, and from specialty wildlife centers. Nyjer is grown in Ethiopia and Kenya, and is sterilized before importation. Often called “thistle”, this is an unrelated plant.
Trees and Shrubs
Ask your local Audubon chapter and other bird specialists for specific advice about native trees and shrubs that support populations of the American goldfinch. Some species that offer seeds and shelter include:
elm (Ulmus americana). Look for varieties that are resistant to Dutch Elm Disease.
American basswood (Tilia americana)
hazelnut (Corylus cornuta)
American beech (Fagus grandifolia)
American sycamore (Platanusoccidentalis)
common witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
river birch, and other species (Betula spp.)
western red cedar (Thuja plicata), and other arborvitae species
white alder (Alnus rhombifolia)
western redbud (Cercis occidentalis)
common buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
island mallow (Lavatera assurgentiflora)
Greens
Goldfinches have been seen feeding on beet greens and on foliage of sunflowers and zinnias. Those evenly-spaced V-shaped bites on the edges of Sedum leaves are due to birds seeking moisture and maybe nutrients. But I can’t yet definitively accuse the goldfinches of this practice.
Male American goldfinch.
Headings
Page 1: American Goldfinches and Basil, Memories From Childhood (To the Rescue!, Cedar Waxwings), Migrations, Habitat (Median Strips), Food Sources (Perennials, Annuals, Trees and Shrubs, Greens)
Page 2: Feeding American Goldfinches: To Feed Or Not To Feed (On the Menu, Feeders, On Sunflowers), Weeds and Water, Nesting, Cowbirds, Other Goldfinches, a New Perspective In Gardening (Some Simple Fixes To Help American Goldfinches)
The 16″ wire hanging basket with purple calibrachoa, yellow and white zinnias, and yellow mecardonia.
Now that the weather has settled, it’s time to plant the hanging basket. Okay, it’s 43°F in Helena, Montana, so you’ll have to wait a while. But here in Charlotte, it’s already 90°. We’ve had beautiful spring weather for weeks now, and gardens all over town are showing new life.
It is confirmed once again that I could never move back to a colder winter climate. Picking tomatoes here in early June is commonplace rather than a rarity. In the past, I’ve lived where a ripe tomato for a Fourth of July barbecue won neighborhood kudos! It’s not the summer heat I look forward to but rather the longer growing season and greens that grow through the winter.
I bought several pots of annuals two weeks ago but haven’t planted them. The plan is to refresh the wire hanging basket, and to fill the front beds with color. Complicating matters, though, is when the new siding will be installed. Our building has been rescheduled to a much earlier date, so no gardening will take place until the work has been completed.
A Few Preliminaries
Can I Reuse Old Potting Soil In the New Hanging Basket?
The hanging basket that held blooming violas and a few perennials over the winter will be emptied.The old soil, which still has value in the garden, will be dug into one of the flowerbeds. Organic components (peat moss and fine pine bark, primarily) break down, enriching the soil.
Used potting soil can be broken up and thrown under the shrubs or topdressed in a thin layer on the lawn. More options include adding it to the compost pile and using it in the backfill when planting trees and shrubs. I never throw away old potting soil, and, of course, I’ll save the perennials. But for new hanging baskets, use fresh potting soil for the best results.
Soil in large planters can be used again if it still has good tilth and hasn’t been waterlogged. It’s good idea, however, to replace the top third of soil. If diseased plants grew in it, I would discard the soil.
Refresh/Reuse
If the metal frame looks a bit tattered, now is the time to clean and dry it. Buy a can of spray paint, in the color of your choice, and freshen it up. Look for one that will stick to the finish on the frame. Some are metal; others are vinyl-covered metal.
Maybe your mother the artist has some ideas about color. Jazz it up a little in a shady spot, or color-coordinate the paint color with the flower colors. If you prefer classic black or bright white, those are fine, too. By the way, wire hanging baskets are also called “English Garden” baskets.
For a frame that looks only a little scuffed, try using a solution of horticultural oil (more concentrated than you would use for insects) wiped over the frame. I’ve used the oil to freshen used plastic pots, which often looked like new again. Be careful—horticultural oil makes surfaces slippery.
Line the Liner
Wire baskets are available with reinforced green sheet moss, but more often with a coconut fiber liner. I’ve used both, and have found the coco liners to be more durable, although I prefer the color of the moss.
If you need a new liner, garden centers stock both pre-formed liners and bulk rolls that can be cut to the length desired. Before shopping, measure the curve of your hanging basket, adding a bit extra, for a proper fit.
A Simple Trick
Here’s a trick I’ve used for many years: line the inside of the coco liner with a sheet of plastic. Reuse an empty mulch or potting soil bag, cut so it extends above the rim. The excess will be trimmed after planting. Now, punch several holes around the bottom third of the plastic to allow for drainage. In hot or dry climates, consider leaving the bottom 1″ to 1 1/2″ of the plastic intact. The soil and plants will absorb water that collects in the reservoir.
Coconut: source of coir for potting soils and coco liners for baskets.
This offers a few advantages. First, the plastic prevents soil contact with the coco fiber, delaying decomposition. A thick liner, made from coconut husks, will last an additional year or two.
Second, plastic prevents rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. Plastic stops the hot dry wind from reaching the soil.
Third, plastic slows down infiltration of icy cold wind, delaying chilling of the soil in winter combinations.
And, fourth, soil won’t be lost through the thin, loosely woven spots in the liner. See if you can double up on the coco liner in those spots. And face the dark side of the plastic, if there is one, outward. This is less conspicuous than a bright yellow beacon peering out from the between the fibers.
Other Options
Perhaps you have other materials hanging around the shed that can substitute for a coco liner. A few layers of burlap, landscape fabric, an old blanket, or that unused fiber grow pot could work for this growing season. Still, I would line it with a plastic sheet for the reasons stated above.
A repurposed grow pot, now used as a liner for the hanging basket.
Where To Place the Hanging Basket
Notice how weight is distributed along the vertical part on the left, pushing bracket against the wall.
Have you decided where the shepherd’s hook will be placed? Have you already installed a sturdy bracket on the fence or deck post? Well-constructed wrought iron is costly, but it lasts a long time. Look for the thicker, heavier hooks and brackets. Visit the hardware store for special anchors and instructions if attaching the bracket to a brick surface.
Make sure the bracket or the hook is large enough to accommodate your hanging basket. This isn’t a concern with smaller baskets but is often overlooked for the large ones. Hardware is available in different sizes, so measure first, or you might find that the large hanging basket you want to use won’t fit onto the shepherd’s hook you already have.
Sometimes it’s hard to determine whether the vertical part of the bracket should be placed above or below the horizontal part. Securing the vertical side below the horizontal arm, as in the image above, helps direct the force against the wall. The bracket is less likely to pull away from the wall or post.
Sun Or Shade?
Pay close attention to the number of hours of direct sunlight the chosen location will receive. As the sun changes its path across the sky from one month to the next, the amount of sunlight will vary. A location near the front door might get lots of sun in April but could be in almost full shade once the trees leaf out.
Don’t expect a blazing burst of color from plants that need 7 or 8 hours of sun if you place the hanging basket under the semi-shady deck. Plant tags often erroneously indicate “partial sun/full sun” for plants that really need full sun. Partial sun to us gardeners, by the way, is 4 hours of sun.
Ask salespeople at the garden center for advice about light requirements. Petunia, verbena, calibrachoa, lantana, zinnia, and scaevola need full sun. Lobelia, bacopa, browallia, torenia, and some of the begonias will do well in morning sun and bright afternoon shade in this hot climate. Caladium, anthurium, ‘Non-Stop’ tuberous begonias, ferns, and foliage plants can take various levels of shade.
Choosing Plants For Your Hanging Basket
Plants have upright, mounding, or trailing habits. For smaller baskets, perhaps only mounding and trailing plants will fit. If single-variety monoculture is your preference (for example, a 12″ pot of purple Wave petunias or a 10″ pot of sky blue lobelias), go for it.
Geranium flower.
If you want a pot of zonal geraniums, avoid hanging it so high that all you see is the bottoms of the leaves and the pot. Place it with the flowers at eye level or enhance it with some trailing vinca vine and a few mounding white or yellow calibrachoas. Adding a trailing element creates greater interest.
Stately Salvia ‘Black and Bloom’ attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.
The 16″ wire hanging basket, for the shepherd’s hook in the front garden, can hold 6 to 10 plants. A large perennial Salvia ‘Black and Bloom’ (photo, right; hummingbirds visit every morning!) grows in the bed behind the basket, next to a yellow-tipped arborvitae.
So, the color scheme will include blue ‘Laguna’ (heat-tolerant) Lobelia, purple calibrachoa (million bells, a small cousin of petunia), little yellow Mecardonia, and a few golden yellow and white (powdery mildew resistant) Zinnia angustifolia.
A Heuchera with orange-ish foliage might remain in the pot, if the color plays nicely with others. (A passionflower I had bought earlier in Hendersonville survived the summer in a tiny 2″ pot.)
I use this color combination in the fall, sometimes, when planting violas. It borrows from both the warm and the cool color palettes. When in doubt, combine colors next to each other on the color wheel (for example, red-orange-yellow [warm colors], or pink-blue-purple [cool colors]) or opposite each other (red-green, blue-orange, purple-yellow). Adding white calms everything down when using several colors.
(***Update***: While the annuals awaited completion of the siding installation, a few of them perished. It happens. I plugged the survivors into the basket and fertilized them. Six weeks later, you can see how nicely it filled out. That’s the basket, at the top of this article. And I planted the passionflower, a vigorous vine, in the garden for the gulf fritillary butterflies. Autumn, 2019.)
yellow-white. These first two options make clean, crisp combinations.
chartreuse, green, orange, and white look good together
shades of yellow-orange-cream
blue-yellow-white
red-white-yellow
silver or gray and shades of pink
purple-blue-silver-pink-white
lavender-purple-white
warm maroon-peach-coral-cream-sky blue
Generally, I avoid using gray/silver with pale yellow. Orange and pink together don’t do anything for me.
We tend to gravitate toward our favorite colors, so try adding varieties you haven’t tried before. See if you can introduce foliage color (caladium, coleus, lysimachia, heuchera, sweet potato vine, begonia) that echoes the color of a flower.
A contrast between flower and foliage forms might also bring greater interest. Adding fine foliage or delicate flowers (nierembergia, diascia, bacopa, lobelia, alyssum, euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’, mondo grass) contrasts effectively with bolder textures.
Headings
Page 1: Tips For Planting a Wire Hanging Basket, A Few Preliminaries (Can I Reuse Old Potting Soil In the New Hanging Basket?, Refresh/Reuse, Line the Liner), Where To Place the Hanging Basket (Sun Or Shade?), and Choosing Plants For Your Hanging Basket (Consider These Color Combinations)
Page 2: Ready to Start?, Time To Play In the “Dirt”, Timed-Release Fertilizer, and Maintaining the Hanging Basket (Water, Soluble Fertilizer, Deadheading, New Varieties, Pruning Your Hanging Basket, Insects and Spider Mites, Slugs, Deer!)
Here are several more quick tips for the gardens in early spring. Several links have been provided, where you’ll find more details.
1. Fertilize Violas and Pansies
It’s no wonder these cold-hardy little biennials are seen all around town. They’re planted in median strips, at neighborhood entrances, around shopping centers, and in our gardens.
They live through the winter, delighting all of us with their colorful, cheerful appearance. Cold is what they like; in late spring or early summer, they will fail in the heat. This year, we had a very mild winter in zone 7b Charlotte, so they looked beautiful all season.
A wire basket with hardy violas and ‘Cool Wave’ pansies.
Quick tips: As long as they’re in active growth, fertilize every 6 or 8 weeks, even in the winter! Use fertilizer that has a higher percentage of phosphorus, the middle number on a package. A ratio of 1-2-1 or 1-3-1 will work. Those three numbers represent the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus (phosphate), and potassium (potash) in the product. They are always listed in that order: N-P-K.
Keep in mind that violas and pansies need acidic soil. You can mix peat moss into the bed in preparation for planting, also incorporating pine fines (soil conditioner) to improve drainage. Or use a product (Soil Acidifier) that will lower the pH, if your soil tests on the high side. Soil that has been limed might be too alkaline for violas, which prefer a pH level around 5.5 to 6.0.
If you have a spare hour or so, deadhead (pinch off) the old faded flowers. Whether or not that actually helps promote bloom, it certainly will improve the appearance of the plants, especially for pansies.
2. Harvest Greens
Collards, with flower bud.
Recently I cleaned the vegetable garden. I harvested most, but not all, of the greens that have been producing since last fall.
Later today or tomorrow, I will wash and sauté the greens down to “wilt”. Then they will be divided into portions and frozen in plastic zip lock bags. The next time I make soup from scratch (or from a can), a rice dish with rotisserie chicken, lasagna, or buy a store-bought pizza, one or two of those bags of greens will be added to the dish. That’s an easy way to add greens to a meal, and increase the nutritional content.
The two large clumps of collards will make a fabulous Collards Soup. For that, I use a large stockpot, which makes about a gallon of soup. I also freeze some of it in plastic containers for later use.
Chinese cabbage ‘Tokyo Bekana’.
In addition to the collards, I harvested mustard greens and dinosaur and ‘Red Russian’ kales. The light green Chinese cabbage ‘Tokyo Bekana’ will be added to the next salad. Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’ remains in the garden, and should last until autumn if it’s partially shaded.
The vegetable garden next to the house is becoming increasingly shaded. The trees on the berm to the south have grown larger and wider over the past 5 years. At this point I’m seriously considering growing a couple of tomato plants in containers on the enclosed deck, safe from the deer.
The sweet pepper plant did well enough in the garden, so it will go there again this year. But most of that garden will contain a variety of greens, green onions, leeks, and probably a cucumber. It’s still the perfect place for fall and winter greens because it’s a warm microclimate, being right next to the house. And at that time, the trees are leafless, so there’s more sun.
The Beneficials
Quick tips: Several of the brassicas are in flower, so I left a few of them in the garden for the honey bees and the tiny braconid wasps. During late winter and early spring, few food sources are available for these beneficial insects, so I like to help when I can. And you can add some flowers to a salad or as a garnish.
3. Plant More Cool Season Greens and Vegetables
Dinosaur kale in bloom.
Broccoli ‘Happy Rich’ is ready! So I made a trip to the garden center a few days ago to pick up a few pots of this delicious miniature broccoli. Ordering seeds is just not feasible right now; I’d have lost 4 or 5 weeks of growing time, so I went for the quick fix: transplants!
Broccoli ‘Imperial’ is one of the varieties recommended for growing in the spring and late summer. This crop will be able to tolerate the warmth of the late spring season, when it will be harvested. I love broccoli. So many vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients…and protein too.
Carrot, radish, and beet seeds can be planted now, even before frost has retreated north. Pea seeds could have gone into the ground weeks ago, but the ones I planted in the fall made it through the winter, and are now flowering and making pea pods (photo, below).
As space opens up in the garden, I’ll sow seeds of mesclun, tatsoi, leeks, and maybe ‘Scarlet Frills’ mustard for its beautiful and fairly spicy foliage, adding some spark to salads!
Fast growing edible-podded peas on a trellis.
Check with your local agricultural extension service for a chart describing what can be planted when. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to get a soil test, to remove doubt about the pH or which nutrients need to be added.
Lettuce
Pots of ‘Salanova’ lettuce ready for the garden.
A few pots and market packs of lettuce purchased over the past week will supplement the patch of lettuce seedlings that survived the winter in the garden. Smaller plants will continue to grow after the mature heads have been harvested.
A red butterhead lettuce called ‘Skyphos’ is reliable even in warm temperatures, up to a point. It retains very good flavor when others turn bitter in the heat.
When trying to extend the lettuce harvest, look for varieties that tolerate high temperatures. Varieties listed for planting at this time include ‘Nancy’ (green butterhead), ‘Vulcan’ (red leaf), ‘Sparx’ (Romaine), ‘Muir’ and ‘Magenta’ (summer crisp), and ‘Skyphos’, of course, one of the favorites I’ve grown for years. The heirloom ‘Black Seeded Simpson’, a loose-leaf lettuce, and ‘Outredgeous’ Romaine are more options for a spring garden.
Quick tips: ‘Red Sails’ lettuce is too pretty to pass up, and it can grow well into spring. Leafy vegetables with deep green color and red pigments, the anthocyanins, have more antioxidants. These nutrients help us fight many illnesses, including cancer and inflammation. So, I always prefer richly colored varieties.
More Quick Tips: How To Grow Lettuce
Lettuce seed germinates readily at a soil temperature in the 60’s F. It will take longer, but seeds will even germinate at 45°. They won’t, however, do anything above 75° or so.
Lettuce appreciates very rich, moist soil. Fertilize every couple of weeks with high nitrogen fish emulsion, earthworm castings, or compost if the soil temperature has increased. And provide ground limestone for calcium and to raise the pH, which prevents tip burn. If a soil test indicates proper pH for greens, add gypsum instead, which also provides calcium but doesn’t change the pH. It’s best to deal with pH months ahead of planting crops.
Organic products rely on soil microbes to break them down and to make their nutrients available to plant roots. But, in winter, microbes are dormant, so I use a synthetic soluble fertilizer.
As the weather warms up, give lettuce morning sun, which is less harsh than hot afternoon sun. You can plant a quick crop between young tomato plants, in partial shade.
Watch out for slugs; scatter granules of organic Sluggo outside the lettuce bed, to draw them away from their intended meal. Slugs can transmit a form of meningitis when ingested, so… And aphids can be a problem, too, but you can just wash them away.
4. Pick the Parsley
Italian (flat-leaf) parsley.
This versatile herb gives fresh flavor to meat, fish, and poultry dishes, sauces, soups, potatoes, eggs, salads, sandwiches, garlic bread, mayonnaise, and herb butter.
The addition of vitamin- and mineral-rich parsley enhances just abut anything you cook. But add it late in the cooking process, in the last few minutes, as you would most leafy herbs. Cooked for a long time, the flavors will evaporate away.
Concerned about your breath? Chew on a couple of leaves; the chlorophyll will freshen it.
There are two main groups of parsley:
flat-leaf, plain, or Italian (‘Giant of Italy’, a new improved sweeter ‘Peione’, and smaller ‘Titan’)
curled leaf parsley (‘Favorit’, ‘Double moss curled’, ‘Paramount’), famous as a garnish and pretty as a garden edging, but also edible.
Decades ago, as a kid, I remember seeing my grandmother in her Englewood, New Jersey, kitchen, holding a huge bunch of flat-leaf parsley inside her arm. Nanny was the real thing—Sicilian-born and a great cook—so for those looking for real parsley flavor, go for the flat-leaf.
When I was growing up, my mother (Nanny’s daughter) always used curly parsley. Several years ago, I asked her why she used the curled and not the flat-leaf. She said the Italian parsley always tasted funny, so she preferred the curled. Do you know which other herb looks like flat-leaf parsley? That’s right…she must have bought cilantro! Neither of us likes this herb at all! So, if you’ve been reluctant to buy or grow flat-leaf parsley, see if its resemblance to cilantro might be the root of that problem.
Here’s good news: it’s easy to grow!
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a biennial member of the Apiaceae family, a cousin of dill, cilantro, carrot, and fennel. Set young transplants into the garden in early spring, through the summer, and in the fall. Fertilize every few weeks with a high nitrogen product, such as fish emulsion. Parsley also is adaptable to growing in potted herb gardens.
In areas with moderately cold winters, it will tolerate freezing temperatures. The foliage will stay in better condition if it receives some protection from a warmer microclimate, such as next to a south-facing wall. Or grow it in a cold frame in colder climates.
Flat leaf parsley, going to flower.
Quick tips: Plant parsley in rich soil. Amended with compost or aged manure to a depth of 12″ or more, parsley will develop a large root system when grown in the ground. ‘Gigante’ (or ‘Giant of Italy’) grows into a massive mound of dark green leaves, 2′ tall and wider than that. In spring, the stems begin to grow tall, preparing for its blooming phase (photo, right).
This is parsley’s natural cycle of growth as a biennial. It’s seeded in one year, grows, overwinters once, and then flowers the next spring or early summer. Sometimes parsley goes to flower the first year if it was seeded very early.
Harvest the plant before it goes to flower, or when you notice that the stems are growing tall (photo, right). If you wait much longer than that, the sweet flavor will become strong or bitter. Cut the stem at soil level, and remove any yellow or pale green leaves.
Cut parsley stems will stay fresh for a few days in a glass of water on the counter or in the refrigerator.
Prepare the rest this way:
Wash the parsley thoroughly in cool running water. Shake off as much water as you can, or put it through a salad spinner.
Have a couple of 1- or 2-cup plastic containers handy.
Remove thick stems. Cut and reserve the leaflets, and keep them intact.
Transfer leaflets to the plastic containers, packing them in tightly.
Freeze the containers.
The next time you need some parsley for soup or tomato sauce or roasted vegetables, simply flake off the quantity you need. Chop them before adding to cooking.
Simple! Although it doesn’t look like fresh parsley (it looks wilted), the flavor is better than the dried option. And it takes up less space than chopped parsley frozen in ice cubes.
Who’s eating all the parsley?
Deer and Rabbits
Does this sound familiar? The parsley is growing beautifully, it has great color, and it’s providing lots of clippings for the kitchen. All of a sudden, the leaves disappeared…overnight! Well, we’re not the only ones who are fond of parsley. Deer and rabbits like it, too. They can do a lot of damage in one sitting.
Quick tips: You can’t use chemical deer repellents, but you can construct a frame around the parsley plants. If you have a big old lamp shade with “ribs”, remove the fabric and replace it with bird (deer) netting. The bigger the shade, the better. Anchor it to the ground so it can’t be kicked over. Or fabricate something yourself from hardware cloth or chicken wire. Make sure young rabbits won’t be able to squeeze through the openings. The goal is to physically exclude animals from reaching the parsley, cilantro, and dill.
Black Swallowtail Butterfly Caterpillars
Yellow egg, left of center, on parsley flower bud.
If the parsley looks smaller than it did last week, look for little caterpillars feeding on the leaves. The female black swallowtail lays tiny yellow eggs on plants in the Apiaceae family (parsley, cilantro, fennel, dill). She deposits them primarily on the bottoms of the leaves. They’re hard to spot, but once you’ve learned to recognize them, you can simply rub them off.
Quick tips: Look for young caterpillars a few days or a week later, in case you missed a few of the eggs. The young brown and white larvae look like bird droppings, appearing less appealing to predators. An organic approach is to spray with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a naturally occurring bacterium. Bt causes caterpillars of moths and butterflies to stop feeding, and they’ll die a day or two later.
But I like butterflies!
Black swallowtail larva on fennel.
Quick tips: Now, if you would rather keep the butterflies, as I do, simply transfer caterpillars from the parsley to a bronze fennel plant. Bronze fennel is a large growing and pretty perennial herb, and a food source for this insect. The fennel is edible for us as well, in salads or to garnish fish.
As the larvae grow, they turn into large black and green striped caterpillars (photo, right). These parsley worms, as they’re sometimes called, will consume more and more of the foliage. Not a problem for the vigorous bronze fennel, but a smaller parsley plant can disappear in a flash.
5. Weed!
Dandelions, chickweed, and hairy bittercress top the list of winter weeds around here. In untended fields, the bright yellow flowers of wintercress cover acres of ground, not unattractive at all!
Your local garden center can help with products that prevent weed seeds from germinating or that will kill weeds after they sprout. Don’t use them, though, near the edibles. Bring fresh samples with you. Diligent weeding and mulch are recommended.
Dandelion
Tiny umbrellas (pappi, plural; pappus, singular) carry away the seeds in the slightest breeze.
Derived from the French “dent de lion”, dandelion refers to the toothed (dent) edges of the leaves. Bright yellow flowers dot the landscape from late winter on. If they are not killed or removed, each of those flowers will develop into a cluster of seeds. This method of seed dispersal, by the wind, is called anemochory.
Quick tips: This weed develops a taproot sometimes more than a foot deep. Leaving part of the taproot behind after “pulling” the weed will result in a new dandelion regrowing from the root. Either remove the entire root (there’s a tool for that), spot treat with a non-selective herbicide, or use a broadleaf weed killer. Always read the labels. Keep weed killers away from herbs and vegetables.
The dandelion in our lawns (Taraxacum officinale) looks similar to edible “dandelion greens”, in the species Cichorium intybus, a type of chicory.
Chickweed
Common chickweed, with small white daisy flowers.
Chickweed grows close to the ground, spreading about 1 1/2′ wide. Thick mats of this weed will hide among the lawn grasses, winter greens, and last year’s fallen leaves. Their seeds germinate in cool seasons, and the plants grow fast, lodging against walls and other objects that trap winter warmth.
If you pull the top, the roots have such a strong hold on the soil that the stem will stretch and break off. In a couple of weeks, you’ll have the pleasure of pulling it again. Grasp firmly under the crown of the plant, just below where the stem meets the soil, and make sure you get the roots.
Two species that often grow here in North Carolina are common chickweed and the more hairy mouse-ear chickweed.
Quick tips: Don’t wait as long as I did for this garden chore. Next winter, there will be an even bigger crop of chickweed. That’s not such a bad thing, though, because tender young greens are edible. Like many greens, common chickweed (Stellaria media) is very high in vitamins and minerals. One website claims it is fairly high in oxalic acid; for those with certain health conditions, check with your doctor. Add it to salads, soups, sandwiches, and stir-fries.
Hairy Bittercress
Hairy bittercress.
This species of cress (Cardamine hirsuta) is a short but abundant winter annual that grows a small rosette of edible bitter foliage, topped by a cluster of white flowers. It is related to broccoli and cabbage, in the Brassicaceae family. Disturbed seedpods open explosively, dispersing seeds in every direction. Ballochory is the name of this method of seed dispersal.
The “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” axiom certainly holds true with weeds. Many times more weeds will grow in the next season if they are allowed to go to seed.
Not all of them will germinate, though. Seeds can remain viable for decades, patiently waiting underground for that moment when the soil is disturbed. Exposing the seed to favorable conditions, such as light, water, and the right temperature, is all they need to germinate.
6. Take a Moment to Just Enjoy Spring
There will always be more quick tips for the garden, but they can wait. Take the kids or the dog or yourself outside, listen to the sounds of nature, and just enjoy being!
Today’s garden projects include adding netting and tall stakes around the tomato plants that the deer have nibbled. There are lots of fruits on the ‘Big Beef’ tomato, and I don’t want to lose any of them as these animals tug on the vines.
Your perception that there are more and more deer roaming our neighborhoods is valid. Several accounts I’ve read over the years claim that there are far more white-tailed deer now than there were in colonial days.
The Costs Add Up
Damage to our landscapes, to farm produce, and to our vehicles is staggering. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety reports that 1.3 million vehicular collisions with deer cause more than 150 human deaths and tens of thousands of injuries per year. The damage amounts to over $3500 per vehicle. Add the suffering from Lyme disease and other diseases caused by infected deer ticks, and the toll climbs.
Deer are most active at dawn and dusk, so be especially vigilant then.Mating season occurs in the fall, and there’s only one thing on their minds at that time of the year. This is when accidents are more likely to happen, so, in the absence of oncoming traffic, use your high beams to warn the deer and to light up the edges of the road.
About a decade ago, I was driving slowly through known deer territory (Brookeville Rd. in Brookeville, Maryland) when one of them came flying off the bank and over the hood of my pick-up truck. I missed him by an inch. Or he missed me. Two other times, in Thurmont, Maryland, and in Charlotte, North Carolina, my truck did make contact, but there was no damage. They walked away apparently unharmed, but I’m not sure the deer didn’t suffer at least a little.
Keep Your Distance
Deer are powerful animals; do not attempt to approach them to scare them away or to “make friends”. They’re becoming bolder and more comfortable in our suburban neighborhoods, even in mid-day. Years ago, in my almost-enclosed back yard, I startled 2 large animals, who reacted by thundering randomly through the yard, looking for an exit. They were unseen, blending in with the background, and perfectly still, until suddenly…they weren’t.
I was able to back up and reach the kitchen door just in time. This incident was a vivid reminder that they can kill you!
Yeah, adorable…
Changing Diets
Don’t get me wrong. I love animals. But the damage to our landscapes and vegetable gardens is enormously frustrating! The time, effort, and money invested in our gardens are wasted if we can’t realize the benefits.
Astilbe.
Numerous websites have lists of plants that describe those species severely, sometimes, or rarely damaged by deer. These are guidelines only. Deer that eat Astilbe, Asarum, and Brunnera in one part of the country might not touch it in another state—not yet. When they’re desperate for food, they’ll try almost anything.
Deer might be more likely to feed on plant species they evolved with, in other words, nativespecies. When deer pressure builds (a large population in a limited area or during drought), they will sample the exotics, or importedspecies. If they don’t die or get sick, they’ve found another item they will teach their offspring is safe to keep on the menu.
In fact, some studies indicate that deer prefer imported flowers, trees and shrubs, which compose a greater percentage of our landscapes. Even though they had passed up the Asarum europaeum (European ginger) in the Rockville, Maryland, garden for 25 years, they decided in year 26 and afterward that it was perfectly yummy!
Deer are now accustomed to browsing in residential communities, where there’s an abundance of well-maintained plant material. We fertilize and water on a regular basis, making them that much more tender and palatable to animals.
The formerly common native wildflowers have almost entirely been consumed by deer and are not regenerating. The rapid increase in deer populations, from lack of predators, is changing the character of both our native and cultivated landscapes.
Decades of Observation
After watching deer for many years, I can confidently assert that taking a “multi-pronged approach” is the most effective way to keep deer at a distance. Sure, one product will work pretty well for a short while. But the key to long-term success is to use several different repellents or barriers at a time. Mix it up a little!
Dozens of products can be found in garden centers, hardware stores, online, and at home and garden shows. There are sprays that smell like rotten eggs, mint, and rosemary. Others taste bad. You can buy capsules containing dried coyote urine, giving the impression that there are predators around. And then there are the barriers that prevent access to the plants.
Although it is often said that deer do not climb steps, a Maryland neighbor discovered that they do. After finding a large potted hibiscus on Julie’s deck, they regularly climbed the 5 or 6 steps to get to it.
Headings
Page 1: The Costs Add Up, Keep Your Distance, Changing Diets, Decades of Observation
Page 2: Deer Repellents (Sprays and Tablets, Repellex, More Spray Repellents, Devices, Granules, Barriers, Deer Netting, Gravel and Santolina, Got Milk?, Eggs, And A Few More)
Page 3: Plants That Deer Love (Hosta = Deer Bait), Plants Deer “Might Not Eat”, and What To Do
Trips to the garden center and articles about landscaping and edible gardening. Radio garden programs and school field trips. What do they have in common?
The subject of Pollinators will come up!
And for good reason: we rely on pollinators for more than a third of our entire food supply! Without the bees, butterflies, bats, and hummingbirds, we would not be able to feed our growing populations. Apple, peach, and nut trees, tomatoes and peppers. Zucchini, cucumbers, berry bushes, and farm animal feed. These are just a few crops that depend on these little critters. Trees, grasses, shrubs, and wildflowers also rely on pollinators for procreation.
Pollinators are attracted to the flowers’ sweet nectar, for carbohydrates, and to pollen for proteins and lipids. Insects and other pollinators gather nectar and pollen from the flowers they visit. During this beneficial arrangement, called mutualism, they unintentionally transfer pollen grains from one flower to the next.
The Fruits of Pollination
Pollen (the male component) deposited onto a receptive stigma (female) in a flower belonging to the same species initiates the fruiting process. The half set of haploid chromosomes in ovules and sperm are recombined during fertilization. (This is not the kind of fertilization that involves nutrients). This restores the full diploid chromosome count. The ovary (fruit) grows and toughens, protecting the seeds until the fruits are harvested or the seeds dispersed.
Fruits, though, aren’t limited to the recognizable apples, peaches, and pears on a grocery store shelf. Botanically, a fruit is any seed- or spore-bearing structure in flowering plants and other organisms. This includes wheat, a kernel of corn, a plump blueberry, a sweet cherry, or an heirloom tomato. Even fungi, including mushrooms, have “fruiting bodies”.
Animals attracted to these nutritious fruits aid in seed dispersal, although in many cases, the seeds themselves are consumed and digested.
And there are some anomalies in Mother Nature’s kingdom that permit us to call strawberries “fruits” or “berries”, although they are neither! The luscious little strawberry is the swollen receptacle, the part that connects the flower to the stem. The actual fruits, or achenes, are those little brown things on the outside. And there’s a seed inside each achene.
No pollination means no fruit in up to 80% of our edible crops!
Honey Bees
A honeycomb.
Honey bees (Apis mellifera) are not native to the Americas. They originated in Africa and migrated to Indonesia, Europe, and Asia. The early colonists brought them here, where they proliferated throughout the frontier, preceding the settlers’ expansion into new territory. Before this species was imported, thousands of other types of insects and animals pollinated flowers. And they still do!
As the nation’s population grew, more crops entered cultivation. Agriculture became even more dependent upon these easily domesticated pollinators.
Almonds.
California’s almond harvest relies entirely on bee activity for nut production. In fact, beekeepers ship 75% of the country’s “beehives for hire” to flowering almond orchards to ensure a good crop.
Of the many thousands of bee species found worldwide, the honey bee is the only one that makes honey. Forager bees returning to the hive with nectar give this bounty to the processor bees. Processors pass the nectar among themselves, helping to lower the water content. Then they deposit the liquid into cells and fan it with their wings to concentrate the honey. After that, they cap the cells with wax to seal the compartment.
Forager bees mix their saliva with the pollen they collected, which the processors place in the cells. Once they’re capped, the mixture begins fermenting, resulting in a substance called bee bread. Both types of cells, with pollen and nectar, also contain enzymes from the bees. Nurse bees feed this bee bread to all larvae, and the colony can access it for sustenance during winter. Enriched bee bread, called royal jelly, is reserved for queen larvae. Not all the honey is harvested by beekeepers; most is kept in the hives.
Why All the Fuss About Pollinators?
A syndrome known as Colony Collapse Disorder has raised the alarm to protect the honey bees. It is not precisely known what prevents most of the bees from returning to the hives. However, it is known that the queen, the larvae, and the honey have been abandoned. Without help from the drones and worker bees, the colony fails.
This is not a new phenomenon, though. Farmers a hundred years ago reported losing up to 90% of their bees to this “disappearing disease”.
CCD was named around 2006, when sudden losses affected increasingly larger proportions of total hive counts. By then, some honey bee operations had lost 50 to 90% of their hives. For the next 8 years, farmers reported hive losses averaging 33% per year.
Current Research
Research has pointed to several possible explanations, although combinations of factors are probably in play. In 2013, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Environmental Protection Agency joined forces to monitor CCD.
Various avenues of research are being pursued involving mites, fungi, loss of habitat, and lack of genetic diversity. Additional issues include chemical contamination of food sources and agricultural pesticides, notably the controversial neonicotinoids and fungicides. The Varroa mite and phorid flies are being researched for diseases that they could be vectoring into the hives.
Another question centers on pollen’s nutritional content from our crops, which might be weakening immunity.
In 2006, the honey bee’s genetic code was sequenced, opening up molecular approaches to treating CCD. Continuing research projects, through surveys, samples, and mitigation techniques overseen by the USDA, are getting closer to solutions. Unfortunately, there are no definitive answers for now.
Courses of action currently being followed include using antibiotics, fumigants, and genetic stock showing immunity to disease.
Honey bee on aster.
So, What Can We Do About It?
To Spray Or Not to Spray
We can manage our properties in ways that are less harmful to the bees’ health. First, consider whether or not we really need to spray every insect that shows up in our landscape. No, of course we don’t!
Maybe you’ve been using a certain product for the last 30 years because it has delivered a 100% kill rate. Overkill? Okay, then, now might be a good time to reassess the need for it. By the way, most municipal recycling stations take old or unwanted containers of chemicals. Please don’t throw them in the trash or pour them down the drain or in the yard!
Make some changes today that help restore ecological health and predator/prey balance to your landscape.
If there are only a few pests damaging your plants, hand-pick them. Cutting them in half or squashing them is more humane than salting them or dropping them in a bucket of soapy water. Never use salt in the garden. A strong spray of water from the hose will wash away most of the aphids.
It’s unrealistic to be entirely free of insect life. And no one wants to live in that world.
Try Using These
In my gardens, I rarely use anything stronger than horticultural oil, organic Sluggo, or Bt. All of them are available in garden centers. See if you can tolerate less than perfect foliage or fruit in return for a cleaner environment. As I grow older, imperfection becomes increasingly acceptable.
Investigate some of the organic options, which are gaining favor throughout the gardening world. The products I mentioned are available from some manufacturers that have been licensed to print the “OMRI” logo (Organic Materials Review Institute) on their labels. Some companies choose not to pay the licensing fee, but their products are “just as organic” as the OMRI products.
Most importantly, don’t spray plants when pollinators are actively visiting them. The products mentioned above do not harm honey bees if used according to label instructions. Follow them carefully, paying special attention to dilution rates and time of application.
Bt
Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a naturally occurring bacterium that paralyzes the digestive system of moth and butterfly larvae by changing the pH in their gut. After ingesting some of the Bt, the caterpillar stops feeding and dies a day or two later. It is more effective on younger caterpillars.
Dinosaur kale with caterpillar holes.
I use it on the brassicas (broccoli, kale, etc.) to prevent utter devastation by caterpillars. Not using it at all means more than just a few holes in the leaves. The leaves disappear!
It works on gypsy moths, canker worms, cabbage worms, cutworms, squash vine borers, tent caterpillars, and the “very hungry caterpillar” known as the tobacco hornworm, among others.
The tomato hornworm looks similar to the tobacco hornworm (photo, below), except it has V-shaped lines and a black “horn” instead of a red one. But, again, if you see entire tomato stems denuded of their leaves, look for that hornworm first before filling the sprayer. There might be only one or two on a large plant. (Tip: if you see their poop pellets, look above them.)
Different strains of Bt also control fungus gnats, potato beetles, mosquitoes, and nematodes.
Tobacco hornworm with parasitic wasp pupae.
Braconid Wasps
This species of Braconid wasp, Cotesia congregata, will kill or severely weaken the tobacco hornworm (photo, above). First, a female wasp lays eggs on or in the caterpillar. After hatching, the wasp larvae feed on the caterpillar’s internal tissues, and then pupate in the white cocoons.
Although it looks menacing, there’s really no need to spray this one. Simply remove the weakened caterpillar to the shrubs. The adult wasps will emerge, and then a bird or a lizard might finish off the caterpillar. The adult form of the hornworm is a type of hawk moth.
Headings
Page 1: What’s All the Buzz About Pollinators? (The Fruits of Pollination), Honey Bees (Why All the Fuss About Pollinators?, Current Research), and So, What Can We Do About It? (To Spray Or Not To Spray, Try Using These, Bt, Braconid Wasps)
Page 2: Planting for Pollinators (For Bees, For Butterflies and Moths, For Hummingbirds), Pollinators In the Landscape (Plant Selection, Host Plants and Nectar Plants, The Importance of Native Plants for Pollinators, Water and Minerals, Shelter), Attracting Pollinators to Your Garden, and National Pollinator Week
Springtime here in North Carolina was quite cool, but the temperatures are now in a more predictable, springlike pattern. For weeks now, we have been seeing outbreaks of certain insects, notably aphids.
Ants feed on honeydew, the sweet excrement of aphids.
Onion Aphids
If you have chives, one of the first perennial herbs to emerge, you might notice aggregations of little black insects clinging to the leaves.Unless you look closely, you might think it’s just dirt. These onion aphids can be squished between your fingers, or use a strong squirt of water from the hose. Luckily, aphids are easily killed. If you must do something, mix up a solution of horticultural oil or insecticidal soap in a spray bottle.
There are around 5,000 species of aphids, and they come in almost every color of the rainbow. They are most common in temperate zones around the globe.
Amouthpart called the stylet pierces phloem tubes of stems and leaves, and sometimes roots, of a wide variety of plants. Phloem carries products of photosynthesis, rich with sugars and other nutrients in solution, so it’s no surprise aphids target the phloem tubes. Aphid saliva can distort the leaves, curling around and protecting the feeding insects from predators. Unchecked infestations can remove so much sustenance from a seedling that vigor is severely compromised.
The photograph above shows aphids, and ants feeding on their “honeydew”, or excrement. The presence of ants often is an indication that aphids are nearby. Ants fiercely protect aphids, and the food they generate, from predators.
Viral diseases are spread by aphids, and can kill your vegetables. This is why it’s so important to inspect your transplants by looking at the growing tip, the stems, and the reverse (bottom) of the leaf, where aphids tend to congregate. Look very closely, because the color of the aphid is often the color of the plant, a very effective camouflage.
Amazing Aphids
Onion aphids from chives.
Aphids reproduce asexually (no males; this is called parthenogenesis) by giving birth to cloned live female aphids (viviparity), or nymphs—lots of them. They bypass the egg-larva-pupa stages. And about a week later, those young aphids will begin to give live birth to another generation. So, you can see how their populations can build exponentially if unchecked.
When aphids are actively reproducing, they’re present in large numbers, feeding from those nutrient-rich phloem tubes. You might notice the honeydew deposited on the foliage below them. This clear layer of sweet and sticky residue often attracts ants. Eventually, black sooty mold spores will land on the honeydew and develop into a dark film that cuts off light to the leaves.
(***Update***: These black onion aphids in the photograph dropped off a chives plant that I had brought inside in January, 2021. Dinner for the betta.)
In autumn or when food becomes scarce, winged adult aphids mate, after which females will lay eggs. This ensures genetic diversity and broader territories. Eggs overwinter, and hatch into wingless females in spring.
Ladybugs
Larval form of ladybug.
Adult ladybug on forget-me-not.
Now you might be wondering, “Why are there so many aphids so early in the year?” Populations of various insects build up in the local environment as numbers of predators gradually increase. You sometimes see a ladybug on a warm winter day, but it won’t be until all the “food is on the table” that you’ll see greater numbers of ladybugs and other predators coming in for the feast.
The larva, or immature form, of the ladybug is a grayish-black and orange crawler (photo, above) that resembles an alligator. Although the adults feed on aphids, the larvae consume huge numbers of them. Always identify the insects before deciding if they’re “good” or “bad”. Look up your local Agricultural Extension Service websites for excellent photographs and advice.
Tiny young praying mantis on flower of Hyacinthoides hispanica, the wood hyacinth.
Braconid Wasps
Female braconid wasp preparing to inject eggs into aphids.
The ladybugs will be joined by many other beneficial spiders and insects, including green lacewings, hover flies, praying mantises, and the rarely noticed and underappreciated species of Braconid wasps. No, these wasps won’t make anyone run for cover. They’re hardly noticeable slender insects, and many are less than 1/8″ long.
Braconid wasps lay eggs inside the aphids, where the immature larvae kill the aphids by feeding on their tissues. That’s called endoparisitism. Then they transform into adult wasps, emerging from the dried aphid exoskeleton and flying away to mate and to carry on the family tradition. Depending on the species and temperature, it usually takes 2 to 3 weeks for the adult wasp to emerge.
Adults also occasionally consume aphids. Each female braconid wasp can parasitize about 200 aphids in her brief lifetime.
Aphid Mummies
Aphid mummy.
What remains after the parasitic wasp emerges from the hollowed-out aphid is a black- or tan-colored shell, called an aphid mummy. If your eyesight is good, or with the help of a magnifying glass, you can see the hole where the wasp exited the aphid (photo, above).
Unless the aphid infestation is going to cause irreparable harm to the plant, let nature take its course, or just wash most of it away with water. Attacking every unidentified and supposedly “bad bug” with the arsenal you’ve assembled from the garden center upsets the balance that Mother Nature has provided. Accepting a blemish here and there is a small price to pay for choosing to foster a healthy ecological system in your own yard.
When harmful insects get way ahead of the game, though, it’s time to take appropriate action. But try to use a more benignapproach that will accomplish the goal without poisoning the environment. Try squishing them or spraying a blast of water from the hose first. That should remove most of the insect pests.
If that’s not satisfactory, use a targeted application of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, not a wholesale spraying of the entire garden. Over time, you’ll notice fewer insect pests and more beneficials as your property approaches a natural equilibrium between the two. But first, learn to identify the commonly found insects in your area—both the good ones and the bad ones.
Sustaining the Population
To keep populations of Braconid wasps around your property, you’ll need to provide the adults with sources of food when few aphids are around to sustain them. The adults look for nectar in the small flowers of the carrot family (Apiaceae),including parsley, cilantro, dill, and wild carrot.
Broccoli ‘Arcadia’ flowers, April 2020.
Their diet also includes nectar from flowers of brassicas, such as broccoli, kale, collards, arugula, and land cress, appearing in late winter to spring. The early flowers of fruit trees, shrubs, bulbs, and other plants also provide sustenance.
I don’t pull out the older spring blooming greens in the vegetable garden until the beneficial insects have had a chance to feed from them. Consider letting some of the early blooming garden weeds hang around for a while, pulling them before seeds mature.
Several generations of these little wasps will populate your garden each year. There are thousands of species of Braconid wasps, each one seeking battle with a particular enemy. Include a variety of native trees, shrubs, and flowers for the species of insects that are native to your area. Planting species that flower at different times of the year helps the insects gain a sustainable presence in your yard.
If you’ve ever seen how quickly aphids can take over, you’ll want to encourage Braconid wasps to remain on the property in order to control their populations. Avoid spraying anything in the garden, if at all possible, which kills beneficial insects as well as the harmful ones.
Chives in flower, after overwintering outdoors.
A Little Help For Our Friends
So, before you snip some leaves from your chives plant for tonight’s baked potato, look for these tiny black onion aphids. You might find some of the aphid mummies left behind on the chives or on the backs of the leaves of overwintering broccoli or kale.
Once you’ve learned how to identify braconid wasps, learn to live with these tiny warriors by providing what they need. Help them help you…
The hollies (Ilex spp.) are another genus of primarily dioecious (Latin for “two houses”) plants that fruit on female plants. They ordinarily require a male plant, or pollenizer, to set fruit, although holly pollenizers (the males) themselves do not set fruit. Modern breeding techniques have yielded several cultivars that can make berries without pollination.
Many varieties of recent sunflower introductions have been hybridized to grow flowers with very little or no viable pollen at all. When looking through catalogs, make note of the ones called “pollenless”. These varieties will make less of a mess on the credenza and won’t cause you to sneeze. But they have little to offer bees and butterflies.
And for good reason: we rely on pollinators for more than a third of our entire food supply! Without the bees, butterflies, bats, and hummingbirds, we would not be able to feed our growing populations. Apple, peach, and nut trees, tomatoes and peppers. Zucchini, cucumbers, berry bushes, and farm animal feed. These are just a few crops that depend on these little critters. Trees, grasses, shrubs, and wildflowers also rely on pollinators for procreation.
