The Resilience of Plants

Drimiopsis maculata.

It happens to everyone. We’re busy with the kids’ activities, our jobs, or the weather isn’t convenient. Sometimes we just can’t get to all those chores on the list. These cool drizzly days before the gardening season kicks into gear provide the opportunity to tend some of those plants I’ve neglected for months or, admittedly, for years. The fact that they survived attests to the resilience of plants.

It’s rare when any of them actually die; that’s not a good look for someone who’s in her 50th year of professional horticulture! But, after growing these plants for decades, I know how far they can go before reaching the point of no return. Not the best way to garden, but that’s reality for many of us.

This article describes a few examples of the adaptability of plants.

The Resilience of Plants: Confined Spaces

Drimiopsis Maculata

Drimiopsis maculata is one of the leopard lilies native to Africa. This species (photo, above) and 2 other leopard lilies that I grow (Ledebouria socialis and Drimiopsis kirkii) are perennials where winters don’t approach the freezing point. The specific epithet, maculata, refers to the deep green, sometimes purplish, spots on new spring growth. Foliage grows from bulbs on or just below the soil surface. These 3 species are classified in the Asparagaceae family.

They prefer average to cool temperatures indoors from fall to spring, and often shed some of the previous year’s foliage. Leopard lilies tolerate temperatures down into the 40’s F, so they’re spending the winter on the enclosed porch with only the sun, an additional plastic bubble, and miniature incandescent Christmas lights for warmth. Although it might drop below 20° outside the porch, nighttime temperatures won’t get below 45° under the bubble.

I simply don’t have enough direct sunlight inside (or a greenhouse) for hundreds of small plants. Anticipating that Arctic Blast (down to 0°) on December 24, 2022, I moved all the tender plants indoors the night before. Good thing, because the power went out for a few hours at the coldest time of day, around dawn. No power, no lights, no plants! It’s only when outdoor temperatures drop below the low teens that I move the tropicals indoors.

This clump and a few others stayed in 4½” pots for over a decade, since I last potted them up in Maryland. (I moved to North Carolina in 2013 and to this house in 2021.) They grew in only an inch of soil before I divided them in late summer, 2022. Because most of the organic matter had decomposed over that period of time, the level of the soil surface dropped a few inches lower in the pot.

In late winter or spring, the bulbs sprout shortly after repotting (photo, below). Normally, I repot plants in spring to mid-summer, but this species is amenable to transplanting at other times, given good growing conditions.

resilience of plants, drimiopsis after dividing

New growth and flowers on Drimiopsis.

Classification Confusion

The lily family and related families include many species that demonstrate the resilience of plants. These are some of the toughest plants for problem spots in the garden. I also brought from Maryland several hostas (Asparagaceae family) that had stayed in 4½” pots for over a decade. They leafed out nicely every spring, but never attained a good size until after I’d planted them at this rural North Carolina property in the autumn of 2021.

Cousins of drimiopsis that tolerate some neglect include ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.), liriope, grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), agave, and asparagus fern.

The huge lily family (Liliaceae) has undergone adjustments over recent decades. Genera of the original Liliaceae family have been redistributed among 10 families, all of which remain members of the same order, Liliales. The new taxonomy is based on modern studies of molecular biology (genetics) rather than on the number of tepals and the placement of the ovary in the flowers (physical characteristics). Liliaceae hasn’t been entirely disbanded, according to the APG, the Angiosperm Phylogeny Group; fifteen genera are still classified in the Liliaceae family.

Binomial Nomenclature

Swedish botanist, physician, and taxonomist Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778), later Carl von Linné, categorized thousands of plant species in his 2-volume 1753 work, Species Plantarum. Incorporating some of the discoveries of Georg Eberhard Rumphius (German-born botanist) from the 1600’s, Species Plantarum is considered the first attempt at organizing plant species according to a hierarchical system of binomial nomenclature.

Briefly, binomial nomenclature is a system of identifying organisms by assigning them 2 names: a genus and a specific epithet. Together, the 2 terms represent a species. For example, Liriope muscari ‘Royal Purple’ is the scientific or botanical name for a certain variety of the species. Lilyturf is the common name that also can refer to other species of liriope and Ophiopogon. The genus is always capitalized, while the specific epithet almost always begins with a lower-case letter. The species is italicized, but the variety (‘Royal Purple’) is not.

Everywhere around the world, gardeners and scientists use the same Latinized scientific name to identify a particular plant, whereas its common name might refer to several different unrelated species. The genus name is often used as a common name, as in liriope, hosta, and drimiopsis, as long as the reference is clear.

The taxonomical hierarchy after species proceeds to family, order, class, phylum, and kingdom. Genetic similarities and differences determine whether 2 plants are related closely enough to group them in the same genus or separately. The closer 2 species appear on the phylogenetic tree, the more likely they’re able to interbreed.

With modern genetic research, taxonomists have reworked several other plant families, including Lamiaceae (many of the herbs we use daily) and Asteraceae (the composites, perhaps the largest family of plants).

Swiss Chard

Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’.

Here’s a little cutie that sits on the kitchen windowsill, right behind the sink. This Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’ gets several hours of direct sunlight in the morning and early afternoon, and bright indirect light the rest of the day. Chilly nighttime temperatures don’t bother it. It found a temporary home in the nearest empty pot when I thinned it from a cluster of vegetable seedlings. And there it stayed.

What makes this plant special is the fact that I potted it up in March of 2022! And it has been in its 2¼” clay pot all this time! The other seedlings planted last spring grew to their normal 18″ height. This one stands a diminutive 3″ tall.

I’m not keeping it for the purpose of harvesting leaves; there’s not much to pick, after all. It looks perfectly healthy, as long as it gets watered every 1-3 days, depending on temperature. Every 3 weeks, I add a tablespoon of dilute fertilizer, such as Sea-Plus or fish emulsion—just enough to keep it in good color, but no more than that.

I’m curious to see how long this orange-stemmed miniaturized plant will last. Short-season (spinach, lettuce) or fast-growing (tomato) plants would not last long in such tiny quarters. Swiss chard is a foliage plant for close to a year before it flowers, so it has tolerated these conditions. Now and then, a leaf turns yellow and is pinched off, but new foliage continues to grow. (***Update***: still going strong in late June 2023.)

Agave

Another cousin of the lily family and a desert dweller, agave (in the Agavaceae family) is a very forgiving plant. I brought 2 varieties from Maryland. They slowly grew new leaves and strong stems with adventitious roots. Although confined in deteriorating 9-cell market packs for a long, long time (~15 years), they rooted into anything near them that stayed still for a year. In the photo, above, the last of the agaves rooted into a nearby clay pot and unoccupied cells of the (removed) market pack. The resilience of plants once again has been demonstrated by this plant’s will to survive.

I buried most of the long stem into a clay pot with barely damp potting soil and no additional water. I’ll water this one very sparingly until it shows signs of new growth.

Succulents and other plants native to dry, harsh climates are masters of survival. They store water in stems, roots, and swollen leaves protected by a thick, waxy epidermis. Species needing constant moisture would not have endured this neglect.

The Old Orchid

resilience of plants, mini orchid in 3" pot for 45 years

Dendrobium kingianum.

When I lived in Morgantown, West Virginia in the 1970’s, a friend and I drove out to The Glasshouse Works, over the border in Ohio. This nursery carried a dazzling assortment of plant species and varieties.

One of my purchases was a small orchid called Dendrobium kingianum. After returning home, I planted it in a 3″ clay pot. Every few years, I refresh the medium, using pine fines, long-fibered sphagnum moss, perlite, and a bit of potting soil.

It rarely blooms, and I propagate it when rooted plantlets form on the stems. An aerial plantlet is called a keiki, Hawaiian for “the little one”. It has been over 45 years now, and the orchid still resides in that 3″ pot.

Bonsai

Bonsai are the ultimate in meticulous care, incredible beauty, and sometimes astonishing age. Many large botanical gardens have collections that truly are worth visiting. Specimens can be several hundred years old and grow in pots only a couple of inches deep. Or they might be trained on a carefully chosen slab of rock.

Plants trained as bonsai usually are woody perennials, either deciduous or evergreen shrubs and trees. Successful bonsai require very specific care in trimming, root pruning, watering, and fertilizing according to seasonal cycles. Most important is the degree of artistry that contributes to a credible bonsai, one that expresses the appearance of an exquisitely aged specimen.

Bonsai exemplify the resilience of plants, considering the means by which they’re maintained over decades or centuries. Each specimen requires a tailored set of precise horticultural skills to keep it healthy.

(No, that’s not my plant in the photo, but this style of gardening deserves a mention.)

Headings

Page 1: The Resilience of Plants: Confined Spaces (Drimiopsis Maculata, Classification Confusion, Binomial Nomenclature, Swiss Chard, Agave, The Old Orchid, Bonsai)

Page 2: The Resilience of Plants: Opportunity (A Plant In a Strange Place, Young Lavender, Another Surprise Seedling), The Resilience of Plants: Recovery (Cryptanthus, Propagating Bromeliads, The Petunia, Giant Redwoods Define the Resilience of Plants, Wildfires)

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Pothos: An Easy Houseplant for Beginners

Mar24

2021

Of Pothos and Pandemics

The Year 2020 was one like no other. The threat of catching Covid-19 or the fear of passing it to others altered our lifestyles as nothing before had ever done.

Restaurants closed, schools closed, parking lots and streets were empty. People lost their jobs, businesses failed, and many tried to remotely fulfill the demands of work while caring for children at home. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control claims that over 500,000 people died, as of this writing, of or with Covid-19 since the pandemic began just over a year ago. Tragically, many of us lost friends or family members.

As vaccinations increase and infection rates decrease, some schools are opening their doors and life is inching back to normal. The pent-up demand for things we denied ourselves will heat up the economy this year—travel, lunches out with friends, shopping at brick and mortar stores…

The Joys of Gardening

Horticultural trade magazines report anywhere from 15 million to 30 million newcomers, last year, to the joys of gardening in the U.S. That’s huge!

Most garden centers got off to a dismal start last spring. But they more than made up for it as online ordering and curbside pick-ups became the new norm. Those where states deemed these companies “essential” were permitted to stay open.

Since we were spending more time at home, many chose to make their living spaces more comfortable. So, they upgraded kitchen counters or replaced drafty windows with a super-energy-saving model. Maybe you painted the family room one of those modern colors you’ve been wanting.

Psychological Well-Being

We also spruced up the landscape and brought home a few houseplants to brighten our indoor spaces. A strong connection between nature and our psychological well-being has been reported for decades. You don’t think so? Take a couple of your houseplants to work, if your desk is bare (of living things). Or buy an easy-going pothos and a pretty pot to put it in and see if your mood lightens.

A School Experiment

In 1999, while in Maryland, I planted a new landscape near the main entrance of a public middle school. No, this was not your run-of-the-mill row of sheared yews and a shade tree. Instead, I planted dwarf evergreens (varieties of cedar, chamaecyparis, and pine), a few ornamental grasses, and other plants in a large garden surrounded by paving. This garden surely would welcome the addition of a bronze timberwolf, the school’s mascot, if it shows up. Boulders and sculpted ground enhanced the impression, embellished with a few drifts of seasonal color. No need to water, as Hurricane Floyd moved in as I was finishing up!

The school’s principal enjoyed it so much that she asked me to plant an area near the teachers’ entrance, in the back of the building.

For the new garden, I dug out the old grass and weeds, and mounded up the improved soil for a gorgeous laceleaf Japanese maple, masses of ground covers and perennials, daffodils, and easy flowering shrubs. This new landscape covered large areas on both sides of the sidewalk leading to the entrance.

A young teacher approached me, and freely expressed his opinion that this project was “a complete waste of money”. I asked him to let me know if he felt the same way after the installation had been completed.

A few weeks later, while I was inspecting the garden, he spotted me and shared a few thoughts. Not only had he changed his mind, but he also started projects in his own garden. He said he wasn’t sure why, but that he “just liked walking through the garden” at the school—gently embraced by something beautiful and soothing. This is why parks and botanical gardens are so inviting.

We might not be able to define the effect, but it certainly leaves an impression. That’s the power of living with nature, and one gold star for Kim!

Four kinds of pothos, clockwise from top left: golden, ‘Marble Queen’, ‘Pearls and Jade’, and satin.

Getting Back To Work

As employees move back to the workplace, I’m willing to bet that some of their new plants will be clocking in as well. Research has shown that we become calmer, and more focused, productive, and cooperative when nature is close to us. An office devoid of living plants feels sterile, unwelcoming, with no place to make a hasty retreat, as the northern cardinals do when they’re disturbed at the bird feeder.

Try starting with an inexpensive plant that every garden center sells. A small pothos (poe’ thoss) costs only a few dollars. It used to be known as Scindapsus aureus, but the botanical name has been changed to Epipremnum aureum.

Several varieties can be found in garden centers or from specialty nurseries. The adaptable golden pothos and white-variegated ‘Marble Queen’ have been around for a long time. Two others with gray-green and white markings, ‘N’Joy’ and ‘Pearls and Jade’, are more recent introductions. ‘Neon’, with brilliant yellow-green leaves, is aptly named. And there’s ‘Harlequin’, with starkly contrasting deep green and crisp white foliage.

Philodendron Silva Container Plant - leoleobobeo / Pixabay

Silver pothos.

Variegation appears as streaks, spots, and margins in colors that contrast with the background.

Among the satin pothos (also called silver pothos) in the species Scindapsus pictus, several varieties sport glittery sliver markings (photo, right). ‘Argyraeus’, ‘Exotica’, and ‘Silver Ann’ have varying amounts of silver in their leaves. This species exhibits “reflective variegation”, where the silvery parts glimmer in the light due to air spaces below the upper layer of the leaf.

Family Traits

Pothos is related to philodendron, peace lily (Spathiphyllum), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Alocasia, Anthurium, dieffenbachia, nephthytis, and many other aroids. Caladium and Colocasia, the elephant ears, are popular outdoor foliage plants for warm summers.

Species in the Araceae family evolved as vines and understory plants in primarily tropical and subtropical latitudes of southeast Asia, the western Pacific islands, Africa, Australia, and the Americas.

Spathe and spadix of peace lily.

All have characteristic spadix flowers. The vining species must climb in order to develop adult foliage. At that stage, the large leaves are often lobed rather than heart-shaped. It’s only then—when plants mature—that pothos can flower. The inflorescence is composed of a spadix, with true flowers, surrounded by a leaf-like bract, called a spathe.

Although pothos rarely flowers indoors, other aroids will bloom if given good care. Their flowers are attractive and might be lightly scented, as in Spathiphyllum and anthurium. For most species, though, we ordinarily snip off the blooms to conserve energy. Flowers of certain members of the arum family, including early blooming skunk cabbage, are thermogenic; they can produce heat to melt snow and attract pollinators.

Aroids are toxic to animals, so exercise caution with children and pets. Calcium oxalate crystals in the cells irritate membranes. In natural habitats, this helps fend off animals.

Caring For Pothos Indoors

While living in Maryland, I kept a ‘Marble Queen’ pothos under a table lamp in a north-facing and fairly dim family room. This white-variegated plant grew in a 6″ pot sitting inside a decorative basket. A 12-watt compact fluorescent bulb, switched on for 4 or 5 hours in the evening, provided enough additional light for the plant to thrive in that spot for many years.

The plant received some indirect light from the windows several feet away. But, during the shortest days of winter, I kept the lamp on longer for this plant. For variegated plants, the more hours of light or the greater the intensity, the more vibrant the variegation.

Pothos is often recommended for areas with low light, but not by me. It often declines when grown in low light because it is more susceptible to problems associated with overwatering. Plants are less photosynthetically active at lower light levels, so they won’t use as much water. Try to give them direct sunlight in the morning or filtered sun for a few hours a day, particularly from fall to spring. Plants that don’t like too much sun in summer love it in the winter, and that helps dry the soil. Increasing your plants’ light levels should result in more robust growth, a stronger root system, thicker stems, and brighter color.

In a room with skylights, large unobstructed windows, and light-colored surfaces, enough indirect light will reflect around the room to keep pothos happy. Aim for at least very bright indirect light for optimal growth and health. A brightly lit office should be fine for pothos.

Leaves Turn Toward the Light

A plant’s leaves naturally turn toward a source of light in a response called phototropism. This occurs when hormones on the shady side of the stem cause those cells to elongate, rotating the leaf or turning the stem toward the light.

Turning the pot every week or so encourages even growth. A thriving plant growing against a wall or on a shelf doesn’t need to be turned, however, if you’re satisfied with its appearance. But a plant that keeps facing its pretty leaves away from you and toward a bright window might need to be turned for a more pleasing presentation.

When Leaves Turn All Green

These leaves are losing the white variegation.

New foliage can turn solid green, either temporarily or permanently losing the variegation, depending on the cause.

Stems with all green leaves grow more vigorously than variegated-leaved stems. The reason is simple. Deep green leaves have more chlorophyll, which steps up the amount of carbohydrate (food) formed during photosynthesis. And that means faster growth.

In a pot of pothos with several rooted stems, the solid green ones will compete more successfully than the slower growing variegated stems. Although a few green stems add contrast, I limit the number allowed to grow.

Loss of Variegation

In the photo above, only a small amount of variegation remains in this stem. If plant cells can no longer reproduce the white parts of the leaf, the rest of the stem will have all-green leaves. In this case, I chose to cut back the stem. The plant gets plenty of light, so that stem was going to stay green. If the stump sprouts solid green leaves, I’ll remove the entire stem down to the root.

Another case where leaves lose variegation is when the plant is growing in low light. The plant will try to make up for reduced photosynthesis from lower light levels by adjusting the amount of chlorophyll produced in the foliage. At some point, the plant will sacrifice older growth in order to feed its younger leaves. Nitrogen and certain other nutrients are mobile and can move to the new leaves at the tip, keeping it alive. Brighter light should improve variegation in new foliage.

Headings

Page 1: Of Pothos and Pandemics (The Joys of Gardening, Psychological Well-Being, A School Experiment), Getting Back To Work, Family Traits, and Caring For Pothos Indoors (Leaves Turn Toward the Light, When Leaves Turn All Green, Loss of Variegation)

Page 2: Watering Pothos (“How can I tell when pothos needs water?”, Let It Wilt, Feel the Weight, When Water Can’t Drain, Water Temperature, Guttation), Potting Up (Why the Soil Surface Drops Lower, Insects and Spider Mites, Time For a Bigger Pot, When To Repot, The Process: How To Repot Pothos), Pruning Pothos (Prune the Stems Short, Pinning Down Long Stems), Propagating Pothos (In Water, In Soil), and Fertilizing Pothos

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Dividing Chives: Easily Done!

Sep16

updated 1/28/2024

Here’s How To Divide and Rejuvenate Chives

Potted chives, about to be divided.

There are few plants that are easier to manage than chives. This herb, in the onion family (Amaryllidaceae), benefits from an occasional division. And as autumn approaches, a rejuvenated plant will reward you with a fresh crop of flavorful leaves until the snow flies.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) is super hardy, growing as a perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. In the colder zones, it behaves as a herbaceous perennial, dying back to the soil after some hard freezes. A few months later, new leaves emerge from dormant bulbs in the ground when the soil begins warming up. Wherever I’ve lived, it has always been the first herb to sprout new foliage in late winter or early spring.

Here in zone 7 North Carolina, pot-grown chives has some usable foliage through most of the winter. If grown in a protected area or next to a south-facing wall (northern hemisphere), it will retain some foliage in cold weather. Potted chives is less winter hardy, by one or two zones, than those grown in the ground because the roots are fully exposed to cold air temperatures.

The term, “chives”, is from the French word cive, which derives from the Latin word for onion, cepa.

Some gardeners use the singular form of the word, “chive”, and others prefer using “chives” for both singular and plural applications. Your choice. Similar to the terms “species” and “impatiens”, I add the “s” at the end.

Why Divide Chives?

After a few years of growth, the small bulbs in the soil become very crowded. One year, the chives will look fine, and the next year it might fail to emerge at all. By dividing the clump every 2-3 years, the younger and more vigorous bulbs will have a chance to grow. Those old bulbs might already have decomposed, so you won’t see them in the soil.

Wet soil exacerbates any problems it might have, so plant it where the drainage is good, in a raised bed, or in a clay pot. In fact, chives can tolerate quite dry soil, and it doesn’t mind being potbound. But for the best growth, keep potted chives damp to lightly moist. It needs full sun—6 hours or more each day—to grow well.

Another reason to divide chives is to provide more plants for the garden, to give away, or to sell at the neighborhood yard sale. Perhaps you’d like to add a division to the strawberry jar you’re filling with herbs. Chives responds very quickly after division.

If onion aphids have weakened your chives early in the season, removing all the foliage is an option. That would be another good time to divide the plant, perhaps waiting until after the blooms fade. I’ve never had a problem with onion aphids after spring.

***Update***: These tiny young onion aphids (photo, below) hitched a ride on the potted chives brought indoors last month. So, I cut back the plant and moved it outside, after feeding a few aphids to the betta. The other chives on the deck already are beginning to show new leaves. 2/5/2021

Onion aphids from chives.

How To Divide Chives

The Pot

This process begins with digging up the clump or unpotting the potted chives. The plant in the photos has been growing in a 6½” clay azalea pot (shorter than wide—about 5″ tall). I will replant the same pot with one of the divisions, after cleaning it. Replanting in a dirty pot will make the next plant more difficult to remove. The new root ball will get stuck on the debris tightly clinging to the walls.

Another issue to consider is the shape of the pot. If the top curves inward, the root ball won’t slip beyond the narrow section, and you’ll have to cut straight or tapering sides to get the root ball out of the pot.

If you want to use Grandma’s ceramic pot, simply grow the chives in a plastic pot, with holes, that fits inside the prettier one. While double-potting lets you use a decorative pot without a drainage hole, remember to empty water collecting in the bottom.

Plastic or frost resistant ceramic pots are fine, but use one that is small to medium in size. A big pot holds a large volume of soil that stays wet in a rainy period or in the cold. The excess moisture could kill your chives unless you’ve added extra drainage material. Chives grows nicely with a few other herbs in a window box.

Cut It Back

Cutting leaves right above soil level.

Cut off all the foliage, down to about 1/2″ from the soil surface. While it might appear extreme, this plant won’t skip a beat. Already, a day after cutting back this plant, it has grown 1/3″ (photo at the end).

Removing the foliage makes the process easier and neater. Also, there’s less stress on the roots because they won’t have to supply water to the foliage. Take the good leaves to the kitchen, and add them to baked potatoes for dinner, or to eggs, a salad, or soup. You’ll have long leaves to snip from rejuvenated plants within a couple of weeks, depending on weather.

Look for leek moth larvae, immature insects that sometimes bore into the hollow leaves or burrow inside and destroy the bulbs. This insect is native to Europe and Asia, but also is found in North America, where it can become invasive.

Divide and Multiply

If you’re removing your chives from the ground, dig a few inches from the base of the clump, and about 8″ deep. Tease off loose soil and put the earthworms back in the garden. Don’t worry about some lost roots; chives’ roots regrow very fast.

: Chives’ root ball.

: Slicing off outer roots.

: Three divisions.

The root ball in a potted plant will become very congested with tightly packed roots, both dead and alive. Use an old serrated knife to slice off the outer edges of the root system. And remove that center part if there are no bulbs there. Compost this tired soil or toss it under the shrubs.

An old clump of chives often grows outward, while the center dies out. Identify the places where natural divisions can be separated. Now divide the plant. Use the knife to make a few or several divisions. I kept 12 to 20 shoots in each division. If you want, you could cut smaller divisions for more plants.

Potting Up

: Clay pot with polyester fiberfill covering drainage hole.

: Firm soil around the roots.

: Finished pot of chives.

Place a wad of polyester fiberfill over the pot’s drainage hole. A small bag can be purchased for a few dollars at hobby shops. Because it’s synthetic, it doesn’t break down and can be reused. The PF prevents soil erosion, leaving all the soil in the pot. Also, sowbugs, earthworms, and other critters will not be able to gain entrance to the soil through the drainage hole. But water will drain freely.

Add some potting soil to the pot and hollow out a depression for the fresh division. The soil line should be about 1/2″ to 1″ below the rim of the pot. Firm the soil around the roots to prevent settling or air channels through the soil. Add more soil if needed. But don’t bury the crown of the plant any deeper than it was growing before the division.

Water the plant and place the pot in the sun. Done! Wasn’t that easy?

Growing Chives Indoors

Light

Chives grows easily in a sunny window, where it gets at least 6 hours of direct sun. Abundant sunshine allows optimal photosynthesis and keeps the plant growing strong. Lack of adequate sun causes thin, weak growth that falls over.

Artificial light can help on cloudy days. Place the plant close to a light source to supplement the natural light it gets, but not so close that it can feel the heat.

Temperature

Even if the windowsill is chilly on winter nights, the plant should thrive there. Chives growing indoors should stay in leaf all season, even though those growing outdoors will go dormant. Cooler winter temperatures (45° to 65°F) indoors keep the plant shorter and in better condition. It will bloom in spring only if it has received enough cold, so don’t expect flowers.

If you must keep chives indoors in the summer, set the pot back several inches from the glass so it doesn’t overheat.

Water

Keep the soil damp. Water thoroughly, and then let it dry a bit. After 10 or 15 minutes, empty excess water that remains in a saucer. Chives can grow in a pot as small as 4″ across and doesn’t mind being potbound for some time. A full plant in a small pot requires water more often.

Fertilizer

Every 6 weeks, from mid-fall through winter, apply a dilute (1/4 to 1/2 strength) solution of fertilizer if the plant continues growing.

From spring through early fall, fertilize every 3 or 4 weeks at about half the strength recommended on the package. Chives just isn’t that fussy. Wait 5 or 6 weeks after dividing before starting to fertilize. Chives planted in the garden might need fertilizer only once or twice during the growing season.

Tips for Harvesting Chives

When cutting the leaves, cut the entire leaf, almost down to the soil. The bulbs will soon generate new growth. If you cut the tips off a bunch of leaves, all the ends of those leaves will turn yellow.

Intercalary meristematic tissues right above the bulbs permit regrowth of the leaf from the ground up.

Chives in flower.

Chives flowers in spring (or early summer in northern zones) after being exposed to several weeks of a cold winter. It’s very pretty in bloom, with pinkish purple flowers on sturdy stalks. It looks like their cousins, the ornamental Alliums, grown from bulbs planted in autumn.

This herb’s flowers produce generous amounts of nectar, attracting beneficial insects. Chives’ flowers are edible. Simply pull some of the little florets off the head and use as a garnish. Young flowers have a milder flavor than those that have been open for a few days.

The stalk, or peduncle, that the flower is attached to is quite tough, and not edible for most purposes. Hold the base of the plant and pull out the entire flower stem.

Chives from Seed

As a monocot, chives produces flower parts in multiples of threes. So, each floret has 6 petals and the seed capsule is 3-lobed.

Different varieties of chives have similar flavor, but some have finer foliage than others. ‘Dolores’ has thin foliage, while ‘Purly’ and ‘Staro’ have wider leaves.

Garlic chives going to seed.

And there’s garlic chives, Allium tuberosum, with a distinct mild garlic flavor. Very nice in salads, but it will spread all over the place if the seedheads are not removed (photo, above). It also spreads underground more vigorously than onion chives.

Garlic chives grows in zones 4 through 9. Its pretty white flowers appear later than onion chives. Enjoy the flowers for a few days but remove them before seeds develop. Most wild animals do not feed on chives.

Garlic chives has leaves that are flattened, while onion chives has leaves that are cylindrical in cross-section.

Growing chives from seed is quite easy. Sow chives about 1/4″ deep in moist potting soil. You can use market packs or individual 3½-4″ pots, with 10 or so seeds sown together. Some growers sow dozens of seeds in one pot for a faster sale.

As soon as the seeds germinate, give them full direct sun for strong plants. They can be planted out after hardening off the seedlings, and they’ll tolerate light frost at a young age.

*** * * * * * * ***

Chives has been used for 5,000 years by civilizations in both the Old World and the New World. The foliage is high in Vitamin C, carotenoids, and manganese. It’s very high in Vitamin K. Because we normally don’t consume chives in large quantities, it’s not considered a major source of nutrients.

Dividing chives is an easy project for a cool end-of-summer day. Clipped fresh chives is very nice on a chilly day with a baked potato, melted cheese, crumbled bacon, topped with barely cooked broccoli…and butter… Enjoy!

Chives, a day after dividing the original plant.

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Lavender Cuttings: Tips for Propagating Lavender

Aug11

2020

Kim’s Tips for Rooting Your Own Lavender Cuttings

Cutting a lavender stem at a node.

How wonderful—the fragrance of lavender wafting through the back yard. You’re pleased beyond measure with these silver-leaved subshrubs in the pollinator garden, and perhaps you’d like more of them. The bees and butterflies are all over them! And the deer never touch them!! Garden centers stock several cultivars of lavender, but they are not inexpensive. Problem solved: “I’ll root my own lavender cuttings!”

The plants have performed well, and the garden is buzzing with activity. Now, you’d like to expand the garden to provide even more sustenance for all the bees and other insects. Admittedly, there is some work involved. Properly preparing the heavy clay soil takes effort and materials, but you know it will be worthwhile.

We need pollinators for farms and orchards, for our own vegetable gardens, and to regenerate natural stands of greenery. They pollinate every third bite of food we eat.

Because it takes several weeks to root cuttings and to grow them on to the proper size for transplanting, time is on your side. So, let’s begin by taking cuttings from the plants in the garden. While they’re rooting, you’ll have plenty of time to get the soil just right for the new plants.

Patent Rights

Because it’s illegal to propagate trademarked plants for resale, I bought the newer lavender cultivars in trays of 60 to 200 tiny rooted plants, called plugs. Labels of branded varieties carry the caution, “Unauthorized propagation prohibited”. Many varieties were not under patent protection, however, so those were the ones I propagated.

Lavender from Seed

Another option is sowing seeds—‘Ellagance Purple’ and ‘Lady’ are two that you might try growing. ‘Munstead’ is a strain that has been around for a long time. Seeds take a few weeks to germinate, so this project is best started in spring. Plants grown from seed (sexual propagation) can vary in certain characteristics, including plant size, foliage color, flower color and size, and time to first bloom.

Plants vegetatively propagated, on the other hand, will have consistently similar characteristics. Cloned plants, from cuttings, have the same genetics as the stock plant, so the rooted cuttings will look identical to the parent.

Prepare the Pots and Soil for Lavender Cuttings

First, assemble 4″ or 4 1/2″ plastic pots. Bigger pots hold a much larger volume of soil and dry too slowly.

Lavender is susceptible to several fungal diseases, so starting with clean materials is essential. At the very least, wash the pots with soap and hot water. Better yet, clean the pots with a bleach solution, let them sit for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

Another option is to use new cell packs, with 4 to 9 cells per pack. Soil in small cells dries faster, so you’ll need to closely monitor these containers.

Don’t use soil left over from last year’s plants; it could be harboring disease spores. Never throw “used” soil into the trash. Instead, add it to the flower gardens or the shrub border, where it will contribute organic matter as it decomposes.

Options for Potting Soil:

Always begin with pasteurized potting soil. Mix this with clean coarse sand or perlite. The medium should drain well, allowing both water and air to percolate through the soil.
Use products formulated for succulents, and add houseplant potting soil to make a gritty medium, but one which will hold some water.
Or, simply, use a fresh bag of pasteurized potting soil, which includes perlite, and be very careful about watering.

Avoid using soil containing a large percentage of peat moss, which is acidic and stays too wet for lavender. This herb, like many others, needs close to a neutral pH.

Incidentally, most potting soils sold in garden centers contain no soil at all, and are sometimes called “soilless potting mixtures”. For our purposes, the term “potting soil” will do.

If the medium is dusty dry, mix in a small amount of water. Avoid breathing in the dust. The soil should be slightly damp. Fill the pots with potting soil, and firm lightly. Leave about 1/2″ to 1″ of space between the soil surface and the pot’s rim.

Making the Cut

Joyce Chen scissors.

When To Cut

Cuttings taken in early to mid summer should root adequately before autumn. These are considered “semi hardwood” cuttings. The stems aren’t fully matured, but they aren’t too tender, either. Tough old woody stems will not root.

Collect lavender cuttings in the morning, when they’re fully plumped with water. Don’t use material from the bottom or from the shady side of the plant. Use healthy foliage, without any spots. Cuttings from plants that have not been overfertilized with nitrogen often root more successfully.

How To Take Lavender Cuttings

With clean sharp scissors, take cuttings from non-blooming, non-budded stems. Lavender cuttings from the tips of the stems, rather than from middle sections, make better propagating material. If your early blooming lavender plants were deadheaded (old flower stems cut back) early in the season, the remaining stems might already have branched out, providing fresh cutting material.

Cuttings, before removing bottom leaves.

Lavender cuttings should be only 2″ to 3 1/2″ long, depending on variety. Large cuttings have greater leaf surface area, and the cuttings are more likely to wither before roots form. When taking cuttings from any plant, consider the number of leaves, light, water, humidity, and time to root. Each variety has its own combination of variables that result in prompt, successful rooting. Long cuttings, low humidity, lack of light, and wet or dry soil will not yield rooted plants.

Make the cut where two leaves join the stem (photo at top). This part of the stem is called the “node”, and the first roots often emerge there.

Now, remove leaves on the bottom inch or so of the stem. Gently peel them off. Otherwise, leaves will rot in the soil, which could rot the stem.

Cuttings, ready for sticking.

Rooting Lavender Cuttings In Water

Coleus cuttings start rooting in water in a few days; lavender requires weeks in soil. When possible, I always root plants in potting soil rather than in water. The roots’ cell structures differ between the two methods, and those growing in water often die when re-adapting to soil.

If you have plenty of cuttings, perhaps rooting some in water will work for you. Cuttings should still be about 3 1/2″ long. Use only an inch of water in a glass, don’t crowd the cuttings, and remove leaves in the water. Place the glass in part sun, and change the water every few days.

Sticking the Lavender Cuttings

After decades of rooting plants under lights for my business, I’ve had the most success with cuttings that were stuck right next to the inside of the pot. Particles of soil touching the wall of the pot tend to permit more air to circulate around the stems. That’s precisely what lavender needs.

The stems aren’t sitting in wet soil, although there is some contact. At night, as the temperature drops, water vapor precipitates on the inside of the pot. And the humid air in that space helps the cuttings root.

Lavender cuttings.

This 4 1/2″ pot accepted 9 cuttings, with 1 in the center. Avoid crowding the cuttings; space them so their leaves don’t touch each other. Lightly water in the cuttings to make better contact between the stems and the soil.

I propagate other herbs, including thyme, rosemary, oregano, sage, and bay laurel, in the same way.

Actinovate

When propagating thousands of herbs and perennials each season, I used an organic biological fungicide called Actinovate. This product, a bacterium called Streptomyces lydicus strain WYEC 108, prevented vulnerable plants from succumbing to most diseases. Water the solution into the soil after sticking or lightly mist the cuttings, occasionally, in the morning. I also used it when germinating seeds.

This fungicide is quite expensive, but it made plant propagation much easier for me. It carries the OMRI label and is safe to use on edibles.

Always exercise caution when using materials for treating plants. Don’t breathe the dust, avoid getting it on your skin (rinse thoroughly), and don’t improperly dispose of leftover product or the container. Read the label.

Rooting Hormone

Rooting hormone powder coats the base of the cutting with a chemical fungicide and plant hormones. While it accelerates the rooting process for many plants, this product carries the Environmental Protection Agency’s Caution rating, as does Actinovate.

I haven’t used it for many years, but, if you’ve had good results using rooting powder, then try it on your lavender cuttings. Always read the label, and never discard leftover powder where it can pollute streams.

Raise the Humidity

Pot of cuttings in open plastic bag.

In order to raise the humidity around the cuttings without causing rot, place the pot of cuttings into a clear plastic bag. Pull up the bag so it surrounds the cuttings, but don’t secure it. Fuzzy-leaved plants, such as lavender, rot (not “root”) easily in high humidity. A closed plastic bag or some other closed system raises the relative humidity to 100%. It also causes the “greenhouse effect”, raising the temperature too high.

So, keep the top of the bag open. Enough humidity will remain around the lavender cuttings. In very dry environments, the bag can be partially closed, but don’t let heat build up. Empty any water that collects at the bottom. If the soil is moist and there’s significant condensation inside the bag, open the top more widely, and let excess moisture dissipate. Wet soil will rot the cuttings.

Light For Lavender Cuttings

Lavender loves to bask in the sunshine. The sooner the cuttings get back to the sun, the sooner they can resume strong growth. But harsh sun will desiccate the unrooted cuttings. This is a race against time.

Indoors

Indoors, place the cuttings where they will get gentle direct sunlight. Sunlight helps cuttings root faster, but strong sun will dry them and overheat the air inside the bag. Bright filtered sun most of the day, as through a sheer curtain, works well. Average indoor temperatures (mid 60’s F to low 70’s) will help them root.

Don’t put the cuttings too close to a window, in the hot sun. Check to make sure excess heat can escape. Lavender cuttings will not root in low light, so it might require a bit of experimentation to find the perfect light level to root the cuttings without desiccating them.

New growth emerging from the tip of the stem indicates a cutting that is beginning to root. Congratulations!

Artificial Light

A 4′ long fixture with 2 daylight LED or fluorescent tubes makes a perfect nursery. Here, the plants never see a cloudy day, and you can keep a close eye on progress.

Place the lavender cuttings close to the tubes, within 2″ or 3″. They should be as close as possible to the lights, but not feel heat from the fixture. Keep the lights on for 14-16 hours each day.

Smaller tubes and grow bulbs emit less light, which might not be enough for lavender. But if that’s what you have, try it. Make sure the cuttings are close to the tubes and that the lights are kept on for perhaps 18 hours each day.

Outdoors

Many of us don’t have indoor space suitable for rooting lavender cuttings. In that case, place the pots outdoors in dappled shade, where the plants will get more bright shade than harsh sun. Don’t expose them to hot afternoon sun. Find a location out of the wind.

In a pinch, take a few cuttings and simply stick them at the edge of a planter, in light shade cast by a plant. I’ve been able to root many kinds of plants this way. Watch out for slugs, by the way, and use organic Sluggo to bait them. Scoop out rooted plants, and pot up for a few additional weeks of growing and getting used to full sun before planting them in the garden.

The cuttings in the photographs go outdoors on the deck in the morning. I take them back inside at noon or in early afternoon. It’s been way too hot and humid outside this summer—mid 90’s F, over 100° heat index for days at a time. When it cools down, they’ll spend more time outdoors.

(***Update***: The pot of cuttings in the photographs has only one survivor. Prolonged heat, frequent downpours, and mischievous chipmunks digging in the soil killed the rest. But that one well-rooted plant looks great, and will stay in its 4″ pot over the winter. 1/1/2021)

Ready for Transplant?

Okay…it’s been about 5 or 6 weeks and most of the cuttings show new leaves growing at the tips of the stems. That’s great!

If you see roots at the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, the cuttings might be ready to divide. Remove the cuttings from the pot by gently tipping the pot upside-down. See if there are enough roots to move them to the next stage. Each cutting should have a few 1″ to 2″ long roots. Handle with care, since the roots detach easily from the stems and dry quickly when exposed to air.

Cuttings Rooted in Pots

Before settling them into their permanent homes, the rooted cuttings in pots will need to grow a more extensive root system. Transplant them individually into their own small pot or into 4-cell market packs. Be sure to maintain the same soil level against the stem; never bury the stems. Use the same kind of soil you used to root them.

If they’re rooted, give them full sun for a few weeks before planting in the garden. Rooted cuttings don’t require high humidity, so remove the plastic bag.

Cuttings Rooted in Cell Packs

If you planted the cuttings in market packs to begin with, simply push up the bottom of a cell to check root growth. Don’t pull the cutting itself. Well-rooted plants can be planted directly into the garden if you monitor them very closely. If needed, cover temporarily with a “caterpillar” tunnel fitted with bird netting. This protection admits air and sunlight, and will prevent damage from digging animals while the lavender becomes established.

If cold weather is approaching, use a clear plastic cover over the tunnel, and vent it in the daytime. This will buffer severe conditions, and could save the plants.

Harden Off the Lavender Cuttings

Harden off the cuttings by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions over a period of a week or so. Place the pots of lavender outdoors, in morning sun for a few days, then in more hours of sun. It’s easy to forget them, when they’re out of sight, so remember to water! Plants receiving abundant sunshine make more food for themselves, through photosynthesis, so their roots will grow faster. By the end of the hardening off process, the plants should be able to tolerate direct sun all day.

Remove flower buds appearing on young cuttings. For now, all energy should be directed toward growing a robust root system.

Any cuttings that haven’t rooted and have foliage that feels limp can be discarded. If they look like this after a month, it’s not likely they will root. Figure out how to improve the growing conditions, and try again.

The Garden is Ready

And so are the plants. Water them first. Then remove the rooted plant from its pot and gently loosen the outer roots if they form a tight root ball.

Plant the little lavenders, maintaining the same soil level next to the stem. Firm the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. For almost all plants, you should be able to see the top of the original root ball after transplanting.

Be sure to space them properly, according to the variety. Some mature at 16″ tall and wide, while others can grow as large as 3′ or 4′ across. Lightly shade the plants if the leaves wilt in moist soil. Sticking a leafy twig in the ground on the sunny side works well enough.

During hot weather, check the soil moisture every day, although you might not have to water every day. Feel the soil a few inches down and next to the root ball. If you detect moisture, don’t water. If it wilts or the soil feels dry, water around the root ball.

When you do water, keep the foliage dry. This helps prevent disease.

To Mulch Or Not To Mulch

If you use mulch in the garden, avoid placing it under the canopy of the plant. Where it rains regularly, mulch can hold too much moisture in the soil, so use only a thin layer or, preferably, none at all right under the plant. Keep mulch off the stems.

Avoid finely shredded hardwood mulches, and choose pine fines or small nuggets instead. They permit better air circulation around the lavender.

Planting lavender on raised ground helps the soil drain faster, and plants display better when elevated above surrounding lawn or paving.

Is Your Lavender Winter Hardy?

Each plant variety has a hardiness zone rating, usually between zone 5 and zone 9 for lavender. If you live at the colder end of that variety’s hardiness zone, the rooted plants might need the protection of a cool greenhouse or a cold frame until next spring. It depends on expected weather patterns—temperature and precipitation—over the next several months for the cultivars you’ve selected.

At this point, in late summer, waiting to propagate lavender until next year might be more feasible, especially for gardeners in colder climates.

Lavender is drought resistant once established in the garden, but often dies when overwatered. Improving soil drainage is especially important for cultivars planted in the colder regions of their hardiness zones. “Winter wet” is a frequent cause of lavender failure.

Plant lavender with other perennials and shrubs that share its preferred growing conditions. Although it isn’t native to the U.S., it is non-invasive.

You might enjoy reading about the history of lavender and its uses through the centuries. This article at The Farm In My Yard includes more detailed information for growing lavender successfully.

Better for the Environment

Traditional property management calls for removing winter shelter and sources of food for insects and animals, so this is how we can begin to compensate, right in our own gardens.

Propagating plants is an economical means of providing new material for your gardens. Planting species that offer sustenance to pollinators is not only ecologically preferable to maintaining lawn grass, but it’s also prettier!

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Quick Tip for Today’s Garden: Start Here!

Mar24

Some Quick Tips In Today’s Garden

As the weather warms, it’s time to turn our attention to a few garden chores. I’m going to attempt to keep each Quick Tip short, and direct you to the links where you’ll find a lot more details.

Early crocuses.

Quick Tip #1: Spring-Flowering Bulbs

It’s no secret—I love spring-flowering bulbs! My last home in Maryland had thousands of them. Jolly daffodils, fragrant hyacinths, early snowdrops, crocuses in every color, big clumps of wood hyacinths, electric blue scilla and tiny pink ones… Grape hyacinths in white, pink, and shades of blue… Species tulips, Ipheion, Chionodoxa, the reliable spreading Puschkinia, and stately Allium. There were fritillarias, Eranthis (photo below), Erythronium, Dutch and rock garden iris, and the invasively spreading Ornithogalum. Even a snake’s head iris or two.

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis).

Bulbs bloomed before the winter snows had melted away, all the way through spring. Five months of flowers! Before one finished its bloom cycle, others began theirs. But spring-flowering bulbs weren’t the only stars of the garden. There were Helleborus and Siberian Iris, lilies and azaleas, and Fothergilla, Viburnum and Tiarella among the many other shrubs, trees, and perennials. And violas, of course!

“Okay, so what should I do with them now?”

Fertilize Them

By early spring, daffodil foliage is fully developed here in the Carolinas, and the early varieties are beginning to fade. Fertilize when the bulbs are near or at peak bloom. The reason I prefer not to fertilize them as soon as the foliage emerges is because the nutrients could cause exuberant growth. The soft growth in these leaves and flowers is more likely to cause them to flop over.

Use a complete product formulated specifically for bulbs rather than just bone meal. Foliage will continue to photosynthesize for weeks, sending energy to the bulbs, “restocking the larder”. Carbohydrates stored in the bulbs sustain the plants through their summer dormancy and ensure that the bulbs will flower again next year.

Lightly fertilize the bulb beds again in late summer to autumn, when new roots emerge from the bulbs. Water well if the soil is dry from drought. If you’ve tended annuals above the bulbs and fertilized them now and then, you can skip the bulbs’ fall fertilization.

Wait For Them To Yellow Naturally

In an effort to tidy up the yard, many gardeners braid the green leaves or remove them entirely after the blooms fade. But the bulbs rely on spring sunshine reaching the leaves to make enough food for themselves. That’s how the bulbs grow larger and develop flower buds for next year’s display.

Wait until the foliage is yellow or brown before cutting it at soil level. Don’t braid or knot the leaves, which interferes with photosynthesis.

Remove Old Flowers

Daffodil ‘Tête-à-Tête’ with faded flower and developing seedpod.

Snip off old flowers before they have a chance to ripen seeds. This is especially important for the large flowers, such as daffodil, hyacinth, and tulip.

All energy should be directed into plumping up the bulbs for next year instead of into seed production. Small bulbs are often encouraged to spread by seed, so it is not critical to deadhead them.

Divide Them

Did your daffodils bloom heavily this spring? Or did you see a lot of leaves and only a few blooms? If the plantings seem to be declining, wait until the foliage has turned yellow or brown. Then carefully dig up the clumps, label the colors or the cultivar names, if known, divide, and transplant them. The most common reasons for fewer flowers are:

Not enough direct sun. As our landscapes mature, the shrubs’ branches begin to overgrow the bulbs. Shading the bulbs’ foliage weakens them to the point that they die out.
Not planted deep enough. Shallowly planted bulbs divide up, forming many small bulblets, which are too small to flower.
Wet soil that kills the bulbs. Plant new ones this fall in well-prepared beds, making sure water drains freely. Incorporate a large amount of pine fines, coarse sand, and/or horticultural grit, which elevates the bed. Gypsum helps improve drainage if used annually for a few or several years.
Poor soil or soil that is severely compacted cannot sustain life. There’s no shortcut when it comes to soil preparation. But if there’s not much you can do about soil quality, plant grape hyacinths, galanthus, puschkinia, and crocuses. These are planted closer to the surface. With some bulb fertilizer and a cover of mulch (1″ or 2″ of shredded hardwood), they’ll have a good chance of surviving.

Quick Tip #2: Liriope, Mounding Or Spreading?

Liriope (pronounced “lir eye’ uh pee”) is a workhorse of a ground cover. One of my favorite plants to use in large drifts under trees or through a shrub border is a variety called ‘Royal Purple’. It blooms in mid- to late summer, depending on location.

I don’t know why this cultivar is not well-known in landscape circles, but the common “blue lilyturf” is the one usually seen. The flower of ‘Royal Purple’, as the name suggests, is a rich deep purple and far prettier in the garden. Try it in front of or near large chartreuse or gold hostas for a stunning combination.

Liriope muscari ‘Royal Purple’.

The Spreading Liriope Spicata

There are two species of liriope often seen at garden centers. One is Liriope spicata, an aggressive spreader, and the one that gives lilyturf a bad reputation. It will creep into narrow cracks in the sidewalk, it will invade the territory originally claimed by Heuchera and other perennials, and it will take over the lawn.

Sure, there are some applications where this species has value, such as in inaccessible areas, in ditches, or on banks. It also will cover large areas under trees. Liriope is related to hosta and daylily in the Asparagaceae family, and all can effectively prevent soil erosion. They have extensive root systems that knit the soil together. But, if you want liriope that doesn’t spread, choose the mounding varieties of liriope.

The Mounding Liriope Muscari

The other species, Liriope muscari, grows in clumps and does not run all over the place. L. muscari is the species to which ‘Royal Purple’ belongs. Another popular variety, with cream- or yellow-variegated leaves, brightens up a shady area and has rich purple flowers. There’s a white flowering variety called ‘Monroe’s White’, for shade, and a pink one, and some with lavender or fan-shaped flowers.

The clumps will expand over time, but they’re well-behaved in garden beds. Most cultivars grow in sun or in shade. In regions with hot summers, though, morning sun or dappled shade is less stressful than full or afternoon sun.

Notice the mnemonic?

Quick tip: “spreading spicata” and “mounding muscari” refer to those species’ growth habits. When shopping for this plant, look for the species that will suit the purpose for which it was intended. The invasive tendency of Liriope spicata has turned many people off to any kind of liriope.

Cutting Back

Old tattered foliage of liriope.

Narrow leaves begin to emerge in late winter to mid-spring. Last year’s foliage can look a little ragged by springtime, especially in colder areas of the country. The tips of the leaves often become frayed, and much of the foliage might have turned brown over winter. And the local deer population can cause damage. Place some dried blood among the clumps to discourage them, or spray with a deer repellent, especially as they come into bloom.

New foliage emerging in center of clump.

Before applying a fresh layer of mulch to dress up the beds for the season, cut back the old liriope foliage. This will remove the old foliage, considered unsightly by some gardeners. Raise the lawnmower’s deck, if necessary, and mow down the liriope to remove old brown foliage.

But this must be done before new leaves begin to shoot up from the center of the clump. Delaying this until after new growth has emerged will chop off the ends of tender leaves, leaving brown tips on new green growth. And don’t try this on recently planted liriope, which can be yanked out of the ground.

An alternative is to cut each clump by hand if there aren’t that many plants. Sharp scissors will do the trick. You can either collect the trimmings and compost them, or let them lie on the ground, to be covered by fresh mulch. Remove diseased foliage to the trash. A string trimmer might work, if it cuts and doesn’t shred the leaves.

And Fertilize

When there are so many chores that need attention in spring, I usually bury old leaves under a fresh 1″ layer of shredded hardwood mulch. The buried leaves will break down in the soil. Be sure to leave the crown of the plant uncovered.

Before applying mulch, broadcast granular fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, to the liriope, but prevent it from landing in the crown of the plant. Compost is an excellent fertilizer.

Liriope Diseases

Liriope can sometimes be infected with anthracnose, a disease that causes reddish-brown spots or dieback on leaves when they should be dark green. Remove clippings from the garden when cutting back the foliage of infected plants. Keep the foliage dry and increase air circulation by not crowding plants. Thinning the tree branches in the canopy above the liriope planting will allow more light to reach the plants.

Crown rot shows up as yellowing or browning at the base of the leaves, eventually consuming the entire plant. These plants should be removed and discarded. Avoid watering late in the day, which keeps leaves wet during the night when diseases take hold. Try not to include them in the irrigation pattern.

Plant liriope in well-drained soil, and, once established, water them in the morning once a week during times of drought, but don’t keep them wet. Annual applications of gypsum will help condition the soil and improve drainage.

Spacing

Liriope planted about 2′ apart

A common mistake is planting this ground cover too sparsely. These clumping liriopes (photo) are planted over 2′ on center. Liriope will not expand to fill the spaces between these plants any time soon. Instead, weeds will take this opportunity to colonize the bed.

Planted 12″ to 14″ apart, liriope will cover the ground, shading it and cutting down on much of the potential weeding.

In soil that is well-amended with compost and pine fines, liriope will expand more vigorously and have better-looking foliage in winter. In poor soils, it probably won’t die, but it will struggle.

Quick Tip #3: Garden Bed Edging

: Old concrete edging, bordering raised bed.

: Iberis (candytuft) spilling over the concealed edging, with reblooming iris behind it.

There are many contrivances designed to mark the edge of a bed. Whatever your personal preference is, go for it—white scalloped concrete or wire segments, bricks on a diagonal tilt, wooden ties, or heavy black plastic spiked to the ground.

I used a garden spade, with a sharp straight blade, to simply cut a steep angle 3″ into the ground. This suffices to stop most lawn grasses from spreading into the bed for a few months.

Diagonal brick edging looks quaint in Williamsburg. But if I used bricks, I preferred to “plant” them end-to-end almost flush with the ground. This forms a convenient mowing strip between the bed and the lawn, over which the mower’s wheels could follow the outline of the bed. And it’s less conspicuous.

In the back yard, in the informal Maryland gardens, gray or brown rocks lined the beds. If they were unearthed from and couldn’t be used on landscape work sites, I took them home. The edging was softened by plants that crept over and between them. There was no grass in the back yard, so these rocks functioned to define the mulch pathways and raised borders.

Is the Edging Too Conspicuous?

Brightly colored materials edging garden beds, such as colorful rocks or painted concrete segments, are conspicuous by their presence. The edging materials can end up getting all the attention instead of your exquisitely designed plant combinations. See if the boundaries can be maintained with the spade or with more muted shades of planted bricks or stones.

Headings

Page 1: Quick Tip #1: Spring-Flowering Bulbs (Fertilize Them, Wait For Them To Yellow Naturally, Remove Old Flowers, Divide Them), Quick Tip #2: Liriope: Mounding Or Spreading? (The Spreading Liriope Spicata, The Mounding Liriope Muscari, Cutting Back, And Fertilize, Liriope Diseases, Spacing), and Quick Tip #3: Garden Bed Edging (Is the Edging Too Conspicuous?)

Page 2: Quick Tip #4: Cutting Back Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Other Perennials That Could Benefit), Quick Tip #5: How To Divide Hosta (Hosta Flowers, Fertilizer, Divide and Multiply: Preparation, and Dig, Divide, and Replace), and Quick Tip #6: Pruning Early-Flowering Shrubs (Renewal Pruning, A Personal Perspective on Pruning)

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